Hey, I'd have to sugg3est you shoot some zinc rich primer over the gap, fab a clean patch to bridge the low area, weld it in, and skim coat the patch with a preminum filler. My first choich would be to replace the lead, given the type of vehicle and said owner. All of the metal based plastic fillers are really a crule joke in very poor taste and should really be sold in party & gag shops! That too, is pretty much how I feel 'bout the glassfibre & resin fillers as well. If you arn't willing to remove the bad metal, and replace it with sound material why bother to cover a sad repair with marginal material? Please send the money you'll waste on this folly 2me! " Life ain't no Disney movie "
Agreed, I don't want to do it half as$%ed. The metal is solid, I have removed all rust and replaced with new metal. This joint was a factory joint. I wonder how bad it would be to as suggested, repair with metal? Would it be the wrong thing to do since that is a factory joint? Collectors like to keep things original so I would not want to hurt future value. I have worked hard to cut out rust and fabricate back with new steel. How hard is it to work with lead, or the new version of lead like I see on Eastwood? Is it crap or good?
Hey, 911s &912s command some serious money WHEN restored correctly! Don't debase the marque with the same repair you'd render on a $500.00 Chevrolet! Lead work, or soldering, isn't that tough to learn. It only takes an understanding of the basics & alittle pratice. I'd suggest you stear clear of the '' Save-the Planet '' i.e. 95-5 solder and go with the 70/30 which requires much less heat to melt. Check the HAMB history on lead,solder & tool/supply sources. Yeastwood ain't no bargin! " Meanwhyle, back aboard The Tainted Pork "
like Chopolds says"Keep the WATER out and you wont have problems.I welded patch panels in a 70 buick convertible and coated the backside with KARNAC asphalt roofing cement.No way was water getting thru that.That was about 10 yrs ago
Oh good, here we go again. Looks like a lot of the same folks bashing this product as the last time this came up. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=505005 There are also quite a few folks on the earlier thread with positive comments. I will refer to my previous comments. Anyone that has had a bad experience with AllMetal, or Metal2Metal (same product) tried to use it like Bondo. And failed, because it is not Bondo. It is harder to work with than typical Bondo, and it is also DIFFERENT. I have used the stuff for many years, and NEVER had a problem with it.
Would there be a problem getting any sort of plastic/plastic & metal filler to stick to previously leaded surfaces, unless every last trace of lead is removed? My vote would be to re-lead it if the car is being done properly, and is being expected to last any time.
i've used metal to metal several times with no problem.if mixed properly it works great.these were small areas that were ground down and completly clean.it stuck like glue and never cracked,it's hard to sand because of the metel content(duh).dont over use and it will be fine.my 2 cents
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