Customs Just got a new project!!! '64 Imperial....What should I do to it?

As Chuck said, the tool, or a comparable one is definitely good to use to remove stubborn bars and went in to a tad more detail. A lot of people get by using caution and a c-clamp or ball joint separator or two jaw puller to push it out of the rear mount. Or they show up on ebay once in a while.

 

Correct, not splines on Mopar, but a hex head. Sorry, they're on my truck and as you stated VW's. I'd still rotate it for a 3 inch drop. Going 3" by just dropping the torsions will ride like shit. I know. My Valiant's oil pan and cross member have the battle scars to prove it. I lifted it back after about a year and a half. I'll be re-indexing them once I get it ready to go back on the road again.

It's preference. Buy larger torsion bars (not unless I upgrade the engine as well) or re-index.

 

Where would I be able to find Larger torsion bars??? I'm super green with torsion bar suspensions.....don't even understand how they work. Could any one explain the re-indexing procedure?? It went way over my head. Sorry I'm a torsion newbie!!!! Thanks for all the help though guys!

 

Don't do anything to it, just tune it up and drive... I might suggest changing out the wheels though

 

http://www.imperialclub.com/index.htm

 

Do not remove the torsion bars. You can't 're-index' the bars to lower the car.
Just turn the adjusters, they are there for that exact reason, setting ride-height.
You got an Imperial. you won't find thicker torsion bars on any of the other cars who have these, let alone find the correct length.
If you want thicker bars, you need to buy new aftermarket ones. But if you don't have the budget for wheels, you'll also won't have the cash for a set of $400 torsion bars.

I've lowered my cars ('57, '60, '62 Chryslers) just by turning the adjusters and using 3" blocks in the rears.
It's true springrate drops slightly when take some of the tension of the torsion bars, but it's not really dramatic.
However do get new and proper gas-shocks all around. KYB's in the front and Monroe LoadLeveler Sensa-trac's is what I always use on the rear of my cars.
The shocks will lessen the chance of bottoming out on potholes and such.

Besides, it's an Imperial, a cruiser, so you won't be blasting around town with this car anyway

 

Thanks Big Block....good advice! I'll post pics after I lower it. Also......would you happen to know that bolt pattern and backspacing a car like mine would have? Also 6" wide right? I was looking on the Wheel Vintique website and had no idea that Astros would only be $120.00-$150 at that rate I could do away with the expensive white walls, run the skinny whites and probably only be $200 over the price of the Wide Whites with $130 Hubcaps. I personally like the look of the Astro with skinny whites....but everyone around me thinks I'm crazy or that I'm becoming too Ethnic hahaha. They'll never get it, but the Hambers will. Screw it though right?! It's my car.

 

The boltpattern is either 5.5", or 5".
I believe Imperial changed thier boltpattern somewhere in the '60s from 5.5" to 5".
You'll probably have 5.5", but measure first to be sure.
Supreme wheels usually have slotted holes so they fit more than one bolt-circle. Better make sure they take 5.5".

I've got 15" Supremes with dual stripe tires on my '62 Wagon...

 

You ask for opinions, here's mine-The cool ripple caps look great on 40's and maybe early 50's, but are not a look I like on a car of this age. I would stay with steel wheels and go for a full cap with black wheel edges showing, Caddy sombreros would be cool but pricy, other full caps with a bullet center covering a logo can be worked out.I can't tell from your pix if the original caps are present, but the original full wheel discs are awesome, if you had black wheel edges the orig. caps were car color or black in the center, google the original caps and you will see how cool they are. Having all the stainless and chrome shined up super brite and the car buffed and waxed up is a must. I wouldn't try to get this heavy car to low without bags, don't trash the great ride. This car is very rare and stylish on its own merit. Cruz it and love it. Enjoy that beauty brother. Very cool ~Sololobo~

 

The only way one can install bags on a '60s Chrysler front-suspension IS to 'trash' the car.
Serious modifications are needed on the front chassis for this. Often not worth the effort when there's already a somewhat adjustable rideheight system present.

 

i've got 3 inch wide whites and starwires on mine. 3 inch blocks out back and cranked down the adjusters up front. i like it. i guess thats all that really counts.

 

you will be cool in january when the green hornet movie comes out
advanced auto parts has changed neon vendors
every thing is on clearance mega cheap
stock up on green neon now

 

BigBlock.....do you know where I can find 5x5.5 Supremes? I've tried numerous searches with no luck.

 

I've never really looked into it but it wouldn't surprise me if they just don't make them. On my Chryslers I've used the 4.5" boltpattern wheels.
Either you could decide to have redrilled orsomething by someone with experience, or to use bolt-pattern adapters. This is very questionable IMO, and they extend the wheels outward which might give you problems on the rear wheels.

Running the stock wheels with the fulldisc wheelcovers have just become quite a bit more interesting I guess

 

Neat ol boat. We had a 64 Imperial convertible for a few of years in my HS days. That thing was a blast to cruise in and take to the drive in. I remember when my mom would drive it. She was 4'11", had the seat up as high and forward as it would go. Hit the gas and brake with her tip toes. She drove it like it was a race car LOL. (Miss ya mom)

I like the idea of thinner whites and spokes myself. What ever floats your boat.

 

Do NOT stress out about lowering using the adjusters- you can get a surprising amount of drop/lift very easy-make a mark with a paint pen on the hex and also measure the exposed length to you can duplicate a setting/keep track of any odd sagging

I believe I had an extra 1/16th inch of adjustment turned in on the driver's side to compensate for the driver and steering gear- Mopar steering gear must weigh over 200 lbs, because i'm a dainty flower rolleyes

rick

 

I have a very weak spot for '64 Imperials as I used to own one. Mine was a very nice untouched car, PIne mist green with a pearl green leather interior. The car was close to perfect, not even a hint of pitted chrome anywhere, only partly some faded paint and dried interior. Even it it was nice I replaced many small parts with even better N.O.S parts, and brought a new chromed rear bumper (2000 USD!).
Next on my plan was to slightly lower it and use reproduced Chrysler wire wheels and period perfect bias ply narrow white walls (Supremes do not fit an Imperial).
However, the car was sold and replaced by a '51 Lincoln, my current project.

 

My dad had a '66 Crown Coupe,when I was learning how to drive. It was so COOL! When my parents would go on vacation,my friend and I would take the hubcaps off and lower it 4" and go cruising. Wish he would have kept it...I took my drivers test with it.

 

What you got is a really cool ride at just the right time for the Hornet showing...LOL! Love it....

 

Well guys since Supremes are out of the question with the Imperial having a 5x5.5" bolt pattern.....what would be another possibility in a wheel or hubcap to give it the 60's mild custom look. Any caps that were cool back then? I was planning on skinny whites...and not a big fan of chrome wires.

 

I dig it! Although that car seriously belongs on this message board. They will dig it too. Quite a few crossovers between the two boards.
http://www.losboulevardosmessageboard.com/forum.php

This thread may give you some inspiration.
http://www.losboulevardosmessageboard.com/showthread.php?1045-1966-Conti-TWO-DOOR-buildup

 

You can get a complete lowering block kit that will work on your Mopar at Adavance Auto or Autozone. I got mine there and it was the right size for a mopar 8 3/4 rear-end. My front is dropped 3" and I have not had any issues, just slow down for dead raccoons!

 

What about a Cragar s/s wheel? Those came out in '63 so that woulda been cool on a '64 no? Never seen them with a set of skinny whites....anyone have a pic?

 

Lets see your stock hubcaps........................If they are like the Imperial caps hanging in my shop, they have a lot of possibilities, for making your own unique hubcaps, as the center cast aluminum medallion unbolts from the back side, and it gives you a large, stainless steel dished hubcap to modify, customize, etc...................

 

Slam it and drive the shit out of it!

 

SS's on thin whites look pretty good.. Not sure about them on an Imperial though.

I'd go with Cragar Star Wires or possibly Tru Spokes.. but you said you didn't like chrome wires.. The factory caps would be cool too.

I looked at the pics of it for a while and I keep seeing lots of polished chrome and stainless.. deep purple almost black paint. black leather interior. wires and skinny whites.. lowered a bit.. and then one thing if it could be done.. suicide rear doors (like the lincolns, just cause it kinda gives off the same vibe to me)..

The one thing i always wonder when people go talking about wheel adapters and what not, why not have the hubs/drums redrilled if there's enough room..

 

Look behind the hideous Kmart wires... you may have the Imperial wheels with the holes all around the outside... They would be 5 on 5.5"... Do you have 4 heavy duty jack stands?

You could probably sell those and make enough for a set of ebay Cragar S/S, Appliance 5 spokes and a set of Pep Boys 1" wide WWs...

Then save up for a candy Lace panel or flaked roof paintjob

I had a '73, and you just have to PB Blaster the adjustment screw at the end of the torsion bar... when you are under it, follow the a-arm back, there will be a thick round bar, going back... at the end will be a BIG bolt.... loosen that a couple of turns.

BTW, Don't overdo it on a lift... I did mine too much and it was too low to get off the lift. Whoops!

 

Searched my files and found an old photoshop of what I intended to do with mine. The original wheel covers looks real good as well, deep dish with cast centers. They are real heavy items!

Here are some nice pages for Imperial owners http://www.imperialclub.com/Yr/1964/index.htm

BTW One small easy custom trick is to replace the clear white back-up lights with red lenses from a '66 Imperial...

These are the wire wheels that I wanted to use: http://store.cokertire.com/oe-wheels/chrysler/chrysler-style-wire-3.html
In the center of the spinner I intended to place the round Imperial black/gold crest from the stock wheel covers.

 

Well I ordered a set of skinny whites today. I wish I had the stock Imperial Hubcaps, but they were gone when I got the car. I'm still trying to think of a good cap for the car that would be correct for the era look I'm going for. Wheel vintiques has some cool bullet center caps, but they said they will only fit they're wheels. Also I put the car on jack stands and was going to turn the torsion bars...do I need a special tool? The hex spot on the end is bigger than a 1" bolt head. Should I weld a big nut to a rod and make a tool??

 

Slam it my ass. Maybe let the torsion bars down a bit, good shocks and brakes, drive in devine goodness....
Oh, and if you don't jack with it too much, let me know when you're ready to sell it...