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Need Advice On Building a Traditional '32 Ford Chassis

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by rockfish, Oct 21, 2010.

  1. rockfish
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 445

    rockfish
    Member

    So I was lucky enough to have the stars align for me and was able to buy a Brookville '32 Roadster body on ASC frame rails. The closest I'll ever get to a "real '32". Currently there are no crossmembers installed. I need advice on putting this chassis together. Here's a list of what I have in my parts stash:

    Rebuilt '47 flathead engine

    Rebuilt '39 toploader tranny

    SoCal front crossmember

    Center crossmember choices I have on hand: mid '30's Ford X member, 47 ford passenger car X member and '50 F1 or '53 F100 crossmember.

    Rear crossmember choices I have on hand: mid 30's Ford rear crossmember and '47 Ford passenger car rear crossmember.

    Chassis Engineering dropped front axle and spring

    1933 Ford split wishbones

    1933 or 1947 banjo rear with matching stock spring

    1933 or 1947 torque tube with matching bones.

    1950 F1 or 1953 F100 Steering box and column or '47 passenger car box and column

    '47 car or 1950 and 1953 pedal assemblies

    Chassis engineering X member mount fruit jar master cylinder with mount and pedal assembly.

    F1/F100 front shock mounts.

    Brakes will be early Ford hydraulic and I'll be running 1940 steel wheels.

    Do I have enough of the right parts to put together a combination that will give me a traditional chassis? I'd like to use as many original Ford parts as possible. As a note the motor is a fairly stock rebuild that will get some aluminum heads and twin carb intake for a little extra power and for the looks. All recommendations are welcome.

    Info I need in particular are motor mounts, torque tube shortening required?, clutch and brake pedal setup? Will the truck steering column work as is or is shortening typically required?

    Also, I don't have a frame jig and really don't want to build one because I doubt if I'll have a future need for it. Can I tack this all together without a jig if I'm careful and then take it to a pro for final welding (I can weld, but don't trust myself on all the chassis work) or should I have it done at a local shop with a jig.

    Anyone in the Milwaukee area or southeast Wisconsin with or without a jig that does this work?

    Sorry for the long message, but I want a car that drives right and don't want to screw this thing up. Thanks.

    Rockfish
     
  2. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 9,679

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you've never built a frame before, and have limited equipment, I would suggest having a pro do it for you from start to finish. I don't know who's good in your area, but you might consider talking to the guys at Ionia Hot Rod Shop in Ionia, Michigan...absolutely none better. Pack up your plunder, hop a ferry across Lake Michigan, and leave it with them. Good luck with your roadster.
     
  3. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    I agree with ricky,get a good shop to do the chassis.

    Thats a great pile of parts you list, would be a great traditional car, with the right chassis set up.

    as for the centre X, I would use a 32 K member, maybe run some c section legs back to mimic a later thrities X. you could use the crossmember you have to build them.

    Or you can make up an X with gearbox drop out, like mine.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 6,830

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

    ^^^^^^^^
    what he said
     

  5. rockfish
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 445

    rockfish
    Member

    Thanks for the input. I pretty much figured it would be best to outsource the frame building. I would like to keep it local if possible. Anyone in southeast Wisconsin? Any more opinions from the day crew?
     
  6. JimC
    Joined: Dec 13, 2002
    Posts: 2,241

    JimC
    Member
    from W.C.,Mo.

    I offer that the frame is the most important part of your car.
    Without a good foundation the resulting car will not be really good.
    I can reccomend a shop. Metalworks in Joplin,Mo. for your frame work.
    Bob Massey has been building and driving 32 Fords for many, many years.
    For references Tom Prufer and Andy Brizzio are close friends and know Bob's workmanship. Several HAMBERs gave toured his shope a few years back.
    Bob has both the facility, tools, and the knowledge to build a great hotrod or put together your frame.
    He is meticulous in detail and and is a 32 Ford craftsman.
    BenD can help arrange transportation to and from Metalworks for you.
    If you should have an interest in talking to Bob, pm me and I will give you his shop number.
    Also, Rusty Jackson of ODD RODs in Carl Junction builds 32 Fords and has one he built and has driven since he was 16.
    Many folks have seen Rusty and his hotrodding family at the NHRSA and Good Guys events for a multitude of years.
    Both Bob and Rusty have shop rates that are affordable.
    Their talent is recognized through out the midwest.
     
  7. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    :confused: all of you that said send the chassis work out to a pro....

    So, I ask, a person should never build a frame if he never has before?
     
  8. Plowboy
    Joined: Nov 8, 2002
    Posts: 4,278

    Plowboy
    Member

    You can build a Jig for a '32 frame in one night if you wanted to. Well, at least I did. The blueprints with the dimensions are readily available...
     
  9. JW Rod Garage could build a frame for you from your parts, although they might prefer to start with their own rails instead of the ASC rails. They're in Belgium, WI.
     
  10. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 7,092

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    Very true, and it doesn't have to be a 5 ton monster jig either, just enough to keep things from moving around while final welding is going on. I built a portable one that can be broken down to store out of some 3x4" ibeam and some thickwall square tubing.

    Also, building a frame that's straight and square has more to do with your welding technique than having a sturdy jig, not that they aren't helpful.

    There's some info in my latest build thread about how I built my '32 chassis...

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=410586

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2010
  11. visor
    Joined: Aug 11, 2002
    Posts: 513

    visor
    Member Emeritus
    from Missouri

    I would agree. Build it yourself. You don't need a jig table unless your
    building a heavy welded boxed up "street rod chassis".
    Buying one isn't very traditional is it? A good
    starting point would be to pick up a copy of "How to build A traditional Hot Rod."
     
  12. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,985

    fab32
    Member Emeritus

    The foundation of any car is the frame. DUH!!! As apparent as that may seem in my 50 years building and driving hot rods it's the one component that most often gets a project off on the wrong foot. Any mis alignment, strength, and dimensional inconsistency will only magnify as the rest of the build proceeds. There have been a few shops/individuals mentioned that I'm sure could give you a solidly built/correctly dimensioned frame and one that I'm familiar with is Ionia Hot Rod Shop. Denny and Matt are in the business of making the most traditionally built and looking chassis I've ever seen. Money spent with them will only enhance the value and appearance of your car. Let us know what you decide to do and share the build with us.

    Frank
     
  13. oldolds
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 3,408

    oldolds
    Member

    I guess you guys that are saying not to build it your self missed something here in the op. He has store bought rails. That is more than half the battle on building a frame. No guessing where to kick it up at, or how high ect. He just has to make it square and level. Not really brain surgury. There are lots of diagrams out there on how far apart the rails should be. If he has a 32 front crossmember bolt it in and get out the tape. Within 1/4 inch is acceptable, within 1/8 is great, less is better. 32 factory frames were within 1/4, wasn't till after the war that there were any real strong standards on things like that in the auto industry. Thats why you align doors on old cars by shimming the body up or down on a prewar car.
    Just take your time. Don't weld anything solid the first time. Measure, tack, measure. do another part. Come back, measure, tack, measure, weld.

    Look at other cars, use the parts you have that look the best. Don't be ashamed, It's your dream
     
  14. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    And...Is he in this for the experience and learning curve of building a deuce, or would he be just as happy if the car dropped into his garage ready to drive?? Money concerns??
    Yes, a pro can build a frame better than someone learning how...but that isn't the whole point. The real questions are does he want to do it himself, AND does he have the basic attitudes needed to tap the expertise here and learn, in a learning curve that includes acknowledging the inevitable mistakes and redoing them.
    New body, probably more accurate than original...new rails.
    Add a simple set of legs to bolt to rail holes and stand the things up at matching altitude from leveled spots on floor, a quantity of straps connecting bolt holes across the car to hold proper spacing, and he will have the rudiments of a jig capable of getting the thing right.
    In his position I would add, if able to afford the current insane prices, original X members, firewall, and rear fenders even if all of those will not be on the finished car.
    The Firewall and fenders pretty well jig the frame to the body, the crossmembers would help establish and hold spacing. Any of that not permanently needed will sell for more than he paid for it when he is done...
     
  15. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

  16. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,699

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    Teenagers were building these with tape measures and stick welders in the 40's and 50's without help from the internet or "guys who'd done this before". Fire up the buzz box and get going!
     
    303racer likes this.
  17. Wildfire
    Joined: Apr 23, 2006
    Posts: 831

    Wildfire
    Member

    Do it yourself. Use a level and tape measure to triangulate everything and it will turn out great. Tack it once you think it is right, double check, then jump around and weld it all up.
     
  18. HotRodDrummer
    Joined: Dec 10, 2002
    Posts: 1,827

    HotRodDrummer
    Member

    Damn good second post oldolds, as a car builder that centers on 32 Ford chassis... and one that has been mentioned, I like your answer best. If you have the will - and a couple tools - you have the way.

    I'd try to tighten up the tolerances a bit. Depends really on the adjustablity of the suspension.
     
  19. JimC
    Joined: Dec 13, 2002
    Posts: 2,241

    JimC
    Member
    from W.C.,Mo.

    Go drive the cars of those giving you advice, then decide.
     
  20. rockfish
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 445

    rockfish
    Member

    Thanks for all the responses guys. Much appreciated. Thanks for the pm visor. I'll respond later today. Lots of things to think about. I would like to do as much myself, but I also need to balance that with the fact I have 3 daughters age 12 and under that keep me busy too. I'd like to have this thing on the road sooner rather than later. Gotta balance that with the $$$. I know I'll be asking for more advice soon. Thanks again guys.

    Rockfish
     

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