I've read the post about Urethane and the heath issues, so I'm staying away, but what about acrylic lacquer or enamel. More specifically, http://www.paintforcars.com/acrylic_enamel_paint.html http://www.paintforcars.com/acrylic_lacquer_paint.html I'm not doing the whole car, just the roof and engine bay - I have a modest set up and I don't want to die!!! I'm also not expecting a showroof finish - just a nice satin one! (I figure satin clear, no?!?) Any help from you painting gods would be great! Thnx, Carl
takes years of directly inhaling urethane before you die from it. Eurethane is going away with the new waterborne paint. Laquer has health risks as well and is an inferior product. It will crack in the winter. Dont get gas on laquer either as it is a solvent cured product, fuel (solvent) will reactivate it and you get the point. Eurathane is a catalysed product and offers UV protection as well.
They all have potential health hazards. Wear the proper protective gear and don't worry about which technology you're using. Each type has its own set of requirements and procedures, so choose the one that's easiest for you and best suited for the job. @hotflint: Urethane doesn't start with an 'e', BTW.
It's all bad for you. Like it was stated....wear protective equipment regardless of which paint you use. It's also my understanding that the hardener, which would be used with the urethane and can also be used with the acrylic enamel is what will really kill you. And unless your painting outside, don't let anyone tell you that it won't harm you. Read the MSDS sheets on the product you choose.
Cripes! I checked your location and was surprised at NY and not Cali. You can still get laquer in NY?
From the FAQ page of that website: Q: What is the difference between the Acrylic Enamel auto paints and Acrylic LAcquer auto paints? A: Acrylic lacquer paints have been largely discontinued by most manufacturers. Acrylic Lacquer auto paint, is primarily for antique or classic car restorations, where the highest possible gloss and shine is desired. Acrylic Lacquer auto paints also will not have the durability of acrylic enamels or urethane auto paints. For this reason, we recommend the Acrylic Lacquer paints for garage kept vehicles that see limited use. Our Acrylic enamel auto paints, will have more durability than the Acrylic Lacquers, and will have a slightly less glossier finish. Please also note that buffing out the finished paint job when using Acrylic Lacquer auto paints is required. Let's hope the painting gods shall alas shine a light one you, as they probably don't like that supplier so much.
Another old wives' tale about lacquer..."it cracks in the winter." All those old musclecars and 50s survivors you see in original paint? Lacquer. Maintained properly, a lacquer finish can last a long, long time. And it's a hell of a lot more user friendly than urethane. If you wish, you can base in lacquer and clearcoat in urethane.
The truth is in all those old GM autos with orginal factory paint which is Lacquer. My nephew had a 63 Riviera back in the late 90s and it had its orginal fatory white lacquer paint and all it took was a little rubbing and buffing to bring back the shine. The proof is in the pudding. All those myths about Lacquer is nothing but a bunch of baloney.
what make some old lacquer crack is the spot putty some body shop used back then it shrinked and the paint had to follow
Guys trying to do the phoney patina thing on guitars paint them with lacquer and then shock the finish by going from hot to cold quickly. It gives it the 50 year old cracked finish instantly. I don't know much about body work but I wonder if going from a heated garage in the winter to driving in the cold would cause that too?
Todays lacquer isnt like the lacquer used in the 50s,60s, and 70s. My paint supplier says the formulas are different .
Magenta Camaro 24 years Orange Camaro 20 years Both DuPont Lacquer. Stored winters and heated garage the last five years. No cracks just slight dulllling that comes back with a foam pad buffing every couple of years. The advantage of lacquer is I can spot paint it and buff back in without painting an entire panel like Urethane basecoat/clearcoat. Both still look nice. Bill
Lacquer is still available in nearly any state EXCEPT California...I can get lacquer in Denver, CO...it hasn't been completely discontinued...!!! Here's my '40 Stude...it was painted in Cadillac Firemist Lime lacquer in 1983...stored winters in a insulated shed and summers out of the hot sun (when not out rod running) under a canopy...roof is just now starting to chek... R-
Lacquer is everywhere......the problem with todays lacquer is that they removed all the good chemicals so it's not the same as if you were using it 25-35 years ago, I have seen some Centari jobs that have been sanded and buffed and they look great.
I have sprayed that "off brand laquer" and I thought it was junk no where near as good as Dupont laquer. It would not dry very fast, took the better part of a day to dry so you could not put a finger print in it (85 degree day). I ended up stripping it off and buying some Dupont Acrylic lacquer and repainting. To keep the laquer from cracking try not to put on so many coats, just make sure you put enough on so you wont rub through. The hard laquer will not flex as the steel moves/expands etc...
I just did an engine compartment in Duplicolor's spray bomb lacquer, Advance Auto near me stocks every color... I think it was 6 bucks a can and took 4 cans, worked awesome. I hit the crusty sheet metal with some wet/dry to get it flat and clean and the spray bomb just sorta melted into the existing paint, very good coverage, good color, very easy to use...looks great and cheap and easy.
Hell, California manages to outlaw everything else...why not lacquer paint...??? Figured the EPA's green claws took care of it...!!! Oh well, guess you can't be correct 100% of the time. R-
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