DRuss32 and maniac: Thx for the links those are great for purchase, and I bookmarked both of them in my favorites. But what I really would like to find is either a tech article or the manufacturer's site that will outline what you need to go with them, such as compatibility with which harmonic balancers, pulley sets and belt alignment issues, etc. All help greatly appreciated. Dave
A top single groove pulley for a standard SBC with the short pump fits. The Zip is designed to use standard SBC short pulleys. I have a double pulley setup on mine but ... the 3W has A/C and needed a extra groove. I used new GM pulleys ... and the part numbers are Pump pulley # 3995642 ( 6.25" diameter ) Harmonic balancer pulley # 3850838 ( 7.25" diameter ) I use a Gates #20225 hose for the lower hose and a Gates # 20046 for a upper hose. The aluminum Zips came out about 1990 or so ... But the iron ones work just as well but are H E A V Y
I've got a copy of the instructions for the Zips Riser that I got from another Zips user. My '32 Ford came with the riser already installed. I didn't know about where or how to bleed the air from the system when refilling or the special instructions for plumbing the heater hose to the cylinder head between the #6 and #8 cyllinders. The instructions lists the lower pulley to be a 7 1/4" dia. double groove GM Part #3850838 and lists the pump pulley to be a 6 1/4" double groove GM Part #3995642. If anyone is interested in receiving a copy of the instructions, send me a PM and I will pass along what I have. Don
I can be termed "Road Kill on the Information Highway" as far as this computer goes. How about explaining these clearing houses for those of us who are not so sharp on this? Dave
I havent mounted my Zips pump riser yet.. But had a question about if the pump riser hits the Oil fill neck on the 327's? any one of you guys using the riser have the fill neck too? pictures?
I had the oil fill on my 3 duece manifold and had no problems, I'm not sure if the tube is in the same location as yours.
Check this post out for you tight asses. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=170022&highlight=water+pump+riser
Cool..Im assuming that im ok than..Im running a 3 Duece set up also 3-2G's..on an Offy Intake just looks close as hell..I will play with it later, was just a concern looking at it last night.. Didnt want to get rid of the filler tube
Interesting post and the tech article that ChoppinTops posted the address to is a good read. A small fwiw on drilling holes in the thermostat flange. Done on my 462" Buick to relieve a possible air lock. Only happened once and that was enough. First time I tried two 1/8" holes and they were too much. Worked ok, but on a 4 mile drive on 40 mph roads to the Saturday morning donut run it took just about the full 4 miles to get the coolant to 180* F - which is the thermostat rating. Next week, made the same run with only one 1/8" hole in the thermostat. About 1 1/2 miles out, the temp gauge hit 180. This thermostat also rated 180* F. Kinda cool out both times with the temps just below 20* F. It is nice to be able to use the heater, even if it's just half-way.
The thermostat hole is very important. I bought a copy of the zips from a CA machinist and metal fabricator. His housing was not engineered very well and was missing holes, hardware, and dimensions were off. Instructions were also non-existant. I had a problem on my first run where it would run normal temp. All of a sudden my temp gauge would hit the hot peg and I could smell anti-freeze from where my cap had popped and started to fill my spooge can. Just as quickly, temp would drop and it would run fine for about 10 minutes. This continued all weekend. I suspected that air was trapped in my engine and I had some steam pressure issues. I drilled a single 1/8" hole in the non-moving part of my thermostat and have not had a problem since.
I found this post in a search. I'm planing on adding a Water pump riser to my 35 Ford with 283. The 15" fan it currently has with no shroud is about about 9" from the top of the stock recored radiator ...so moving it up 5" would center the blades and I could run a bigger fan. The fans less than an 1" from the radiator now at the top, on a 35 the radiator angles back. So if I go up 5" it will be closer to the radiator. I have A/C with an older electric fan in front of the radiator & condenser on a manual switch, and was thinking I just eliminate it as it blocks air flow ? In my situation I'm not overheating bad at all right now, but If I get stuck in traffic on a Hot day the temp does rise to 200 and above. I'm not sure I'd need a shroud with a bigger fan thats centered on the radiator ? But while I'm there will probably just add one.
Zip is a personal friend of mine and has pumps for Big block Chevy as well as big and small block hemi too. I can answer any questions you may have or put you in direct contact with him. He's a great guy and easy to talk to.
Dude, just write the check & get it done... http://www.southernrods.com/categories/heating-and-cooling/water-pumps/products/product-1845.html http://www.socalspeedshopla.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=889 http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb...~S2R60MZZIB16036153450d~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000042b JH
Old thread BUT ... Does anyone KNOW if the Big Block Chevy ZIP water pump riser has been put on the market YET ???
Vintage air show one available in their catalogue. It doesn't say if it is the Zip one or not. http://www.vintageair.com/catalog10/2010 VintageAir Catalog printed_ (Page 64).pdf
The photo in the Vintage Air Catalog shows different setup from what others show. Different Brackets? Any one order one lately and what did they come with?
socalspeed shop , vintage air, southernrods, pete and jakes , all have em , got mine thru pete and jakes
Attempting to source a replacement water pump for my Zip Riser. The only marking on the water pump is "G Japan". When checking various internet sites, came accross the following quote that made me wonder if the 6 cyl water pump on the Zip has enough coolant flow to cool a V8 engine? Interesting quote from Howard Stewart; Water Pump Warehouse website: ”You can never flow the water through the system so fast that is doesn't have time to cool. The system is a closed loop, so if you keep the water in the radiator longer to allow it to cool more, you are also keeping the water in the engine longer allowing it to get hotter. The water in the engine will boil away from the critical areas if not forced through at a high velocity.” Any comments on the above quote as well as information on sources for a high flow ... 6 cyl water pump that measures 3 7/8" from the base to the fan hub mount? I'm new to the world of street rods and am quickly coming to appreciate the value of this website !
I run one on my coupe. 327 powered. I run a 4 row radiator w/shroud. I can barely get it up to 180 degrees w/AC on. My only issue has been a popping sound in the cooling system when the engine is warmed up at idle. I bought the riser at the swap meet over 2 years ago w/no instructions. I was not aware of the bleed off valve. With the help of this post I think I will be able to solve my problem.
If this is true, why is it that if you remove the thermostat and leave it out, the motor will overheat. I always thought it was because the water went thru the radiator so fast and didn't have enough time to cool off. I figured the water just got hotter and hotter causing heatsoak..
This previous post answers your question. For those that want to run the ZIP's pump riser there is and aluminum water pump available. I got one from Auto Zone (not pimping their stuff, just were I got mine) part number BWP-386HDA ... lifetime warranty. its kinda semi polished and has the cavitation plate already on the impeller. Ed I have used this pump and it cools my 430 HP SBC with A/C ... .
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