I am installing a 50 ford dash in my model a roadster, and want to use the inst out of the 50, what do I do for a voltage drop? do I use a voltadrop on each inst, and what sending unit?
For starters....only the electric gages that use a sender need a voltage reducer. That would probably be the temp gage and the gas gage. You can use one reducer for both. Try a reducer from a 56 ford, that's when they went to 12v system. Use the original 50 ford senders. connect the reducer in the line from the power source to the gages.
I would assume a 12v bulb would burn dimmer when only getting 6v? Will it still be bright enough to uliminate the dash properly? Or can you find 6v bulbs that have the same physical shape and solve the issue?
I assume it's a Ford flathead engine????? If not you'll still have to use the original senders for Fuel, Temp and Oil Pressure. Jim
ford used 6 volt gauges up until 71 or 72, i cant remember, the reducer squirrel is talking about is in the parts book as a voltage regulator, kinda looks like a circuit breaker, only has spade terminals. all fords had them up until the early 70's, there all the same.
Echlin VR1 or VR7 Ford gauge voltage reducer from NAPA will get the job done for you. Wire it in on the + side of the gauges and bingo. Not on the amp gauge though. I used one of these things on my 55 Lincoln,,,, PERFECTION!!
My pleasure, I should have said that I am about 99% on the numbers, and I got these numbers from another (now forgoten) poster right here on the HAMB. I did go into NAPA and buy using these numbers (in as much as I am sure of them) and it worked out great.
went to napa, and they could not come up with sending units, or the echlin no. another Hamber told me to use a 67 mustang voltage drop, 67 bucks wow. I will have to look at something else. Some one said there is a guy on here that has them. hope he gets in contact.
C&G early ford has EXACTLY what you need. Use the original sending units, and a "Runtz voltage reducer". They work beautifully and have good instructions. You need one reducer for EACH gauge, but its simple and effective. I'll make it real easy for you. Heres the link. https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlvry40/ufolder/ShowProducts.php?c=1&s=39&g=314&t=1822
Speedway has them. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/12-Volt-to-6-Volt-Reducer,2374.html Make sure that don't use the ceramic reducers for the gauges. They surge when you start the car and will kill radios and gauges. We are almost done with the wiring in my '52 and I was going to use the ceramic ones.. I guess they are only good for fans. - Joe
Guy on fleabay makes and sells reducers 15amp and 20 amp .Seems to be a decent unit. $30.00 I have the 15 amp can run insturments, clock and radio plus heater fan if you use 20 amp and it is 6v. otherwise ford if you can find the damn thing under the dash. Than have to get it out, buried if I remember right. Cheapest way to go. Those single item reducers are $20.00 apiece.
+1 I used one off of a junkyard '60's Mustang instrument cluster, but they are available new from a good parts house. Works great and one does all your gauges. Don't get hot like a runtz reducer either.
As wowcars sais "Runtz voltage reducer". I used them on my 52 ford and they are cheap and easy install. One for each gauge but not volt gauge. new 12v bulbs and your done!
Just looked the Borg Warner number is R302, Standard is VRC604. As mentioned they are probably going to run about $65. I bet you can buy a used cluster from a '60's Ford on ebay or at a swap meet for $10 with one that still works though.
Try two six volt batterys in series. Take the six volt stuff off the first one. You need to use a relay to switch it on with the key. No resisters, no heat. Slick. Not too complicated.
NAPA Echlin part # VT6187 12v to 6 v reducer. NAPA Echlin makes several insrument cluster voltage regulators: Part # IR 1, IR2, IR7, and IR8 all fit 60-77 Fords, Mercs, Lincolns. Difference being connections.
Last time I priced the little ford voltage limiters [what they call them] I decided not to pay their $18 price. I went to U-pull-it and snatched one from the back of a 64-65 Ford pickup as all ford electric gauges up to the late 60s-early 70s were indeed 6 volt gauges. Cost a buck. Run a hot wire [when key is turned on] to the limiter, which is attached to the back of the cluster with one screw. Run 3 wires from the other post of the limiter. One to each gauge---one for the fuel, one for the temp and one for the oil gauges. You'll need to use the original ford senders for all these gauges.....done deal. I used this setup on my 33 ford pickup with a 50 ford insturment cluster and 40 ford engine with stock 40 senders. Worked just fine. BTW...I've found these limiters on the back of IHC trucks too.
WARNING THIS IS SPAM. BUT This is good information, it is relevant and I believe Ryan is OK with a response like this. Boys and Girls, It doesn't get any simpler than these... $ 3.00 each... One required for each gauge as they will only handle .5 amp... Available on Ebay or give me a call. Alliance members get a 10% discount. If you purchase on Ebay email me for your discount BEFORE you pay. Al
If they are zener diodes then two things come to my mind. 1) $3 is a little high in price, since they are available from a dime to 50 cents each from various electronics houses. 2) zeners don't drop voltage real well with varying loads. Their avalanche voltage is closest when close to the max current is provided. Gas gauges and such change load with the varying sending unit resistance. The accuracy of the gauge will be in question. But they are cheap, simple to use.
The latest "Rod and Custom" mag has a tech article on how to reduce the volts from 12 to 6. Good info.
when I was 16, about 47 years ago, I put a post in the middle of a 12 volt battery, 6 volts to needed places.
My first car in 1968 was a 51 Merc 50's hot rod W/ a 390 caddy etc. The builder did a slick thing in using a probe to find the 6v point between the terminals and tapping a hole in the battery for a stud. Everything but the starter & charging system ran off that lug (5/16-18 as I recall). That was with the old style battery cases which were more pliable than what may be current and I also do not know the proximity of the plates to the top cover on the newer batteries. It would be worth a shot to experiment on a battery to find out if it is still a legit thing. The rodders from the 50's were very creative WWII people and could really be innovative.... <!-- / message -->
Do a search. There's a thread on here about hoe to build your own. I went ahead and searched it for you. Here's the link. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=448038&highlight=voltage+regulator
I got my runtz off of Ebay for less than 15 bucks delivered. Much easier than the old days with those big white round resistors. The prices were all over the map. The Mustang reducer (not the same thing) was over 40 bucks.
I am running a 40 Ford dash and cluster in my model A. I also have a 350 Chevy in it. All that said, besides the volt drop for the gauges, do I need to do anything else special to make everything work? Thanks for any and all help in advance.
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