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removing dodge rear hubs

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BillyJBones, Sep 5, 2010.

  1. BillyJBones
    Joined: Sep 4, 2010
    Posts: 4

    BillyJBones
    Member

    Anyone have any good tips for removing the hubs from the rear shaft? I've put a gear puller on there, heated em, hit em with a hammer etc. no good. The castle nut that holds them on is off. They're pressure fit with a keyway thing that holds them on. These are on a 1959 Dodge Mayfair.

    Billy
     
  2. BillyJBones
    Joined: Sep 4, 2010
    Posts: 4

    BillyJBones
    Member

  3. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,726

    George
    Member

    1. remove U bolts 2. remove axle 3. install modern axle 4. reinstall U bolts
     

  4. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    BS !! Thats the way people do things that don't know how to work on something a little odd !! Or too lazy to learn.
     
  5. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    ....acutually I got a good chuckle out of what George said :D

    You got to admit that the mopar tapers are the nastiest ones out there ;)



    ps, I still have my Dads old monster puller from when he ran a shop in the 50s. Even then, they can be tough going.
     
  6. dlotraf
    Joined: Apr 7, 2010
    Posts: 112

    dlotraf
    Member

    Yeah they are rough to get off. I have a scar right between my eyes from one. Pulled an old rear end from abandoned car, cut drum with hacksaw and peeled it back and then drove a chisle between drum and axel flange. The chisle was stuck real good, so I just wailed on it. Well when it poped loose, drum, chisle (with big mushroom) hit me square between eyes. I was 15 then 37 years ago. I have never let go of a chisle since. And just as soon as a mushroom on end starts to form I grind that crud off. Lesson learned...............:D
     
  7. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    Yep F&J I will admit they ain't the easiest . If everything was easy what fun would that be ????
     
  8. Bullet Man
    Joined: Sep 21, 2006
    Posts: 389

    Bullet Man
    Member

    here's how to get it off the proper way! first of all find the proper tool. it's a three leg puller that bolts to the hub it will have a 1" bolt running through the center that tightens against the axle. the proper tool will have a removable tee bar that is pretty hefty and has knobs that can be hit with a large mallet to tighten the bolt against the axle. once you have ample pressure against the axle and it still won't come off use heat on the tapered hub and hit the tee bar again until it loosens. these were always hard to get off but with this tool and heat they always come off. if i felt like learning how to post pics on the fourm i'd show you the tool i have had for 40 years. we had to have this tool in our shop to do pa. safty inspections. mopar and rambler amc products used taper axles into the 60's. so some old timer in your area should have one to borrow. hope this helps. ignore the smart ass posts on this subject.
     
  9. Bullet Man
    Joined: Sep 21, 2006
    Posts: 389

    Bullet Man
    Member

    i forgot to tell you but the axle nut on flush with the axle to protect the threads.
     
  10. The good pullers are the ones with at least 3 arms that bolt to the brake drum using the studs. It's a good idea to leave the nut on a little - if it decides to let go, it'll be sudden. The drum and puller will go flying across the shop - or else hit you in the noggin. Put lots of pressure on, heat it some, tighten some more and hit the end of the puller with a heavy hammer. Sometimes just letting it sit overnight with pressure on helps.
     
  11. 29nash
    Joined: Nov 6, 2008
    Posts: 4,542

    29nash
    BANNED
    from colorado

    I worked on one for about two months on my Nash. Tighten puller. Hammer. Wait. ONe day it popped!

    Another way; Drive it with the axle nuts loose. They will come loose someday. Maybe.:D
     

  12. Some of yoose don' seem to bother to read ALL the replies. I linked an IDENTICAL thread from earlier in the week with all the info he needs. :rolleyes::D:eek::p
     
  13. not to add fuel....have a Snap-On three bar puller....when it doesn't do it's job...I get out the old shop made one I picked up at a swap meet...man I love that old thing...it always does the job...guess I need pics....
     
  14. farna
    Joined: Jul 8, 2005
    Posts: 1,282

    farna
    Member

    Stick it in a hydraulic press with a block of wood under the end of the axle (couple inches between axle and wood) so the axle isn't damaged when it pops loose. If it doesn't come loose without damaging the press just leave it in the press under pressure for a while. I've left them in the evening and come back in the morning to find it apart. I've put them in and then 20 minutes to 2 hours later heard a sudden "pop" in the shop and looked back to find them apart.
     
  15. sten5173
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 31

    sten5173
    Member
    from ct

    Back off nuts a few turns and drive it! Works every time!
     
  16. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,290

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    Think the drum and hub are hard to get off the axle, try the axle (and bearing) itself. I used the axle nut with a large galvanized pipe coupling and cap to pull the axle out. Not only was it stubborn but it took a breaker bar with a 5 ft piece of pipe as an extension to get enough pulling power to get it out.

    The drum puller with the "hammerhead" worked for me but even after pounding on the hammerhead with a sledge, the one thing that ultimately got the drum off was a quick smack on the end of the puller.

    Funny that this only happened on the right side, but not on the left. Left came off with just a slight tug.
     

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