Have leaking headers on my sbc in a '39 Chevy....am about to put on a brand new set of Remflex header gaskets.....have heard these are about the closest thing to "no leak" header (gaskets) as I am likely to ever find....but.... .....My real question is: Which header fasteners (bolts) to use??.....(1) The Stage 8 (or other) locking fasteners....I have heard good things about them....then, I have also heard they are an extra and unnecessary pain in the ass to initially install....so, (2) Just to use a good hard stainless or hard grade bolt (like an ARP, etc) and maybe just put some loctite or other treatment on them. Which of these two approaches does anyone out here favor?
Standard header bolts drilled for safety wire.. Also try a set of regular Fel-Pro exhaust manifold gaskets before you use those expensive header gaskets.... I've used manifold gaskets before with headers and never had a problem with them..
You can try these as well. Once in just tighten the center allen and it locks the bolt in place. Simpler than the Stage8. http://www.jegs.com/p/Percys/Percys-Split-Lock-Header-Bolts/981843/10002/-1
Forget the Stage 8, Percy's Split Lock and the rest of the pain in the butt stuff. These right here from Totally Stainless R O C K. Install just like a regular bolt, no screwing around, and they W O R K
I had a set of the Stage 8 bolts on my old Chevelle and they sucked. They were always coming loose, I dont know how but they did.
i have used regular, metal one side, gaskets with the best results, i always carry a wrench with and for the first couple of runs i check the bolts every time i stop, are you totaly sure your headers are not warped?
just one word for you to think about, if your running full exhaust, that exhaust has to have some flex. if you tighten the headers tight and the exhaust is mounted to tight from the headers to the rear of car, when the engine moves and there is no give in the exhaust something is going to give, the header bolts! allow for engine torque.
No, they have a toothed face on each washer that interlocks and a friction surface on the other that keeps the pair from turning. When they start to loosen the toothed faces have to move apart making them tighter.
I'm with Budd on this one. Plain old Fel-Pro manifold gaskets, but with anti-seize on the paper side. Some one once told me it would keep the paper from tearing if the gaskets shift against the block. Also, I ALWAYS install the gaskets, metal-side out, against the header. Don't know exactly why, but it seems to work. The headers have been on the 250 in my wrecker, since before I got the motor. I replaced the gaskets, on the initial install. Never any trouble with header leaks, even after a dozen years of flame throwing. Mufflers and stacks are another matter.
Regular bolts and regular tightenings. Currently running Mr. Gasket gaskets cut for the port size. Works well, actually.
I have used Felpro manifold gaskets on all the small blocks I've had along with the red hi-temp or copper hi-temp silicone sealant. Standard old header bolts checked now and then and never ever developed a leak. Even use the copper silicone on the standard collector gaskets with no leaks ever either.
I have had good results with a Fel-Pro steel core gasket...with copper RTV spread around each port opening on both sides of the gasket....never blows the gasket out...even if the header bolts come loose.
I used these yesterday....with the 5/16" heads....super easy to get on and ....they came shipped with a bit of anti-seize....I was gonna use some anyway but thought it was cool noneless. I got a set of Remflex gaskets under em.....not especially high priced....less than $30 from Summit. The bolts may be a little higher priced than some but if they work as advertised I think it's money well spent. I'll report back in a few months with the longer term results.
ARPs with a felpro blue gasket with the ports outlined with red RTV. Done and done. Check the bolts a couple times a season and call it good.
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