3.54 Banjo Rebuild Issues.....

The guy that's rebuilding my rear last night called me and said that there's a big issue with my Ring & Pinion. I bought a R&P from ebay in January that was supposed to be a 3.54 from a '39 Mercury with the integral driveshaft & pinion.

Well fast forward to the last couple weeks and after cutting the pinion from the driveshaft and putting a 6/6 couple to it he started assembling the rear. That's when he called me to tell me that the pinions was definitely not matched to the ring gears and it was not going to work. He said that the pinion was in fact no different then the on from the 4.33 gears he took out.

So now I am going to see if I can get a refund (partial or full) form the guy but I am left with some questions that need to be answered. I started to panic a bit and started thinking that a T-5 swap with the old 4.33 gears would be a good solution but then I snapped out of it.


SO my questions is how are the 3.54 Gears from MAC's? I know the Getz ones from Speedway have issues and need some machining for them to work. I am really looking for a set of gears that are mated and ready to throw in as the friend who is rebuilding my rear end is waiting for our next step.

Any input? Perhaps there something that I am missing on the Merc gears?

 

If the gears are factory matched they will have corresponding numbers. I have 3 40 Merc rears and each one has a number stamped on the end of the pinion (where it sticks thru the support bearing) and a corresponding number engraved on the face of the ring gear,as if it were engraved by hand with an electric engraver.All three have 3;54 to 1 gearsets.I have never heard of early Mercs having gears as low as what you mention.Did you get this as a complete rear or just the gears? Bob

 

The guy sent it in two boxes. Ring and spider gears in one and the driveshaft with attached pinion in another.

 

4.33??? That can't be right... Let's start over here, how many teeth are on each gear?

 

I don't have it here at work or at home right now. My friend that's building it has it at his shop. He said it was a 4.33 R&P in the rear that I gave him to rebuild. To my calculations that would have the markings of 39-9 on the Bottom center section where the Torque tube bolts up. I got it in the Blue Ridge mountains which makes a 4.33 possible if not probable or no?

 

I installed 3.54 gears from Snyder's in my Model A rear. Nice set & had NO issues installing/setting up. Had to partially dismantle rear to shorten driveshaft, torque tube & radius rods when I installed a 4 speed OD. Checked gearset while it was open & looked as new as the day I put them in.

 

Where's Snyder's? Why not Mac's since you're so close? Just wondering.

 

Snyder's is a Model T and Model A specialist supplier in Ohio.....but they do have "some" early V8 parts......

look here: http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/


CB

 

Thanks Brucie! Never seen that site but I am digging the scratch & dent section.

 

You can get gears from hotrodworks. They are experts in this stuff and can help with any questions you have.

 

I used the Speedway 3:54 and had NO issues with it. They apparently used to require some machine work but that is taken care of now when the parts arrive.

 

I was looking into them last night when I started contemplating the T5 swap. They have a 3.55:1 and it's $25.00 cheaper which definitely might be the way to go!

Really?? Because if that were the case I could save some money and go with them. I might have to get no the horn. Are they still made in Italy or something like that? Have you put any miles on your car yet?

 

hotrodworks set me up new 3.70"s from sp way locker dutch axles Lincoln brakes worked great boom blown clutch hot rods need love too

 

useful, i am getting ready to go look for a 3.54 myself.

 

Once I get the go I might order a set from Hot Rod Works. I feel like I would pay the extra $100 just to know that they are of the best quality. Whether or not Speedway fixed them I just feel like it's worth the piece of mind.


.....watch Hot Rods works get theres from the same place as Speedway hahaha!!!

 

I'm using a set of 3:54's from Speedway for the last two years, no trouble. Just put a Mitchell in, it wiil be fun now.

 

A 3.54 would be a 11 tooth pinion and a 39 tooth ring. As stated, look for matching numbers. I can't believe the Merc had anything but the 3.54's. All I've had did.

 

Well I emailed Hot Rod Works and asked about their 3.54:1 set. He said that they were not the same ones as Speedway and that they were exact reproductions of Ford's. I have heard nothing but good things in regards to Hot Rod Works so I think I am going to Pony up and snag a set.

41PICUP, that's cool to hear your set is trouble free and working like a charm. I'm interested to see how those Mitchell setups work. Keep us posted.

Thanks ANDY for the tip!

 

Mine is driving me nuts trying to get some preload on the differential. I have NO gap to even start working down to the 5-8 thou. measurement.?

 

Then you would need to shim the bearing races. Either the cups in the bells or the cones on the axle shaft.

Is it no gap and no play? or no gap and end play on the axle shaft? you need to consider this.

Frank

 

Please allow me to chime in and give my strongest recommendation to Ken & Nick Smith of the HotRodWorks in Nampa, Idaho........I have dealt with them several times and they are top notch......tell them CuznBrucie sent you......

CB

 

Just a suggestion,before you get carried away with high speed gears you need to determine the rear tire size and intended rpm operating speed of your engine to help select a good choice of gear ratios. There are a number of rearend gear calculators on the internet so just do a search and pick some numbers to experiment with different combinations. Example based upon your statements would be a 3-54 with a 5 speed OD, well this calculated out randomly, at a 20% over drive would make 5 th gear final about 2.83 to 1 but with a tall tire could make this even lower like 2:60 -1 which would be really tall gears even for cruising the interstate.

 

Go with Hotrodworks.

 

Gas pumper: Hate the hijack but Mine has NO gap between the center housing and the bells. This is where they say to measure and start putting the gasket shims in so you can set up the rear. Mine go together FLUSH. Thanks

 

Yup, that's what I thought you meant. That's why I'm suggesting to shim the side bearings to create a gap on the flange that you can then adjust with the gasket shims.

I can't figure how to post a scetch. That might help visualize what I'm sugesting.

 

I can actually get parts 3-5 days faster from Snyders & usually their prices are lower (part dependent of course). If I need to get big parts or a bunch of stuff (group order) I'll drive out to Mac's on a Saturday to ease the shipping cost.

 

Thanks for this post JJ.

 

Well I was going to go with a 3.54 behind a '39 Ford three speed with what the MFG states as a 32.5" tall 7.50 tire. I figure that should be good for highway driving as well as around town. I'm going to be running a 265 Chevy motor with a short stroke so it'll like to rev a little higher then a flathead I guess right?

The person that I have been consulting the most on this is Krusty40. He's pretty dialed in with this stuff.

Now if I were to go with the 5speed I would keep the 4.33 gears that I have. My '52 is running a 5speed behind a flathead with 4.50 something and it cruises nice.


Oh and Thanks cuznbrucie!!! I will tell them you sent me!

 

Where can I get the side bearing shims and are we talking about in the bells or on the spider gear assembly itself. Thanks.

 

You use gasket as shims and they go between the side bells and the center section. You have to set the mesh and the bearing preload with the shims(gaskets). You can buy a rear end gasket set and it will have a selection of different thickness gaskets. It is a very time consuming process. I did it lazy and only put in 4 bolts for a check. Wrong!!. All the bolts when installed changed the clearances. Had to redo. A model A and 32 used different gaskets than 33 up.