okay - need to pull engine for clutch replacement - A) do you suggest pulling motor AND trannie? B) support of trannie if left in and disconect of wishbone? any help or direction will help...thanks!
Whoa Cabriolet, yes be real careful. I would pull the motor personally, change the clutch then re-install.-Weeks
Take both out; the motor is easy enough to put back in and you can always use the extra room having the motor out gives you. Cris
I agree with Chris (post # 5). If everything goes right, you can have the engine and transmission out in about an hour - more or less. Remove the gearshift tower from the transmission and cover the gears before you do the extraction. Then remove the engine/trans. When it is out, it's easier to take off the bell housing, etc. It's also MUCH easier to line everything up when you are going back together. It takes somewhat longer to put things back in the car. Be careful with the bolts on the back of the assembly when you are lowering it back into the car. They tend to scratch the paint on the firewall. Stick some cardboard between the two as kind of a cushion. The whole process can be done by one person, but is easier with two. Nice looking cabriolet!
Yeah, I'd pull both...can be a bitch to get the engine lined back up beings the bellhousing sandwiches between the frame... no wiggle room. I had the tranny in my coupe and it took a long time to get the engine in. With the tranny already attached, just slide it back, drop it down and hook her up.
Do your self a favor and remove the radiator & headlight bar and take the motor and trans out in one piece. It is alot easier this way.
if you have a torq tube leave trannie in. i'm in same boat slicks/locker/big axles-boom new clutch $$$
i would pull the rear end out then trans think about it.. pull the 4 u bolts, brake rods, and the bolts on the clamb shell that way you dont need to take the hood radiator or any of the wiring and miss. stuff associated with pulling a motor tk
thanks all!!!...have a Clymer book which mirrors the factory guys which say to pull the rear and then the trannie...the motor and body were placed on after the fact - to sell it...no wiring really to bother with...did pull the lights radiator and hood prior to post - as it might help in the post clutch install with hooking everything up to run...was prepared to pull motor...with in put...might just pull rear...seams back wards...but....thanks again....
After just changing the clutch in my A bone, I pulled the moter because I was fixing cracked moter mounts and replacing rubber, but next time I will either pull the trannie with it or just pull the rear and trannie. Alot easyier. .tp://s84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/sk6rschick/?action=view¤t=0522101628.jpg" target="_blank">
thanks...nice truck - saw your post as well...looks like my engine will be coming out as well...took the head off for a look see...will post picks tomorrow....
I dont know if you have ever done this or not, but it can get a little tricky getting the moter wedged in between the mounts but a couple buddies its not too bad. If this is the first time going into the car it is a very good idea to take the moter out because 9 times out of 10 the moter mounts will be cracked, mine were missing a chunk out of the top side of the mounting flange on both sides.
well the Cab A motor seemed stuck - most likely from sitting...so plan B was an A motor that was turned into a compressor which I had bought a year or so back for the RPU project. took the head off the comp and it had a little rust in 2 and 3 but wasnt stuck...no pic...well went back to the Cab A which I could see some gasket sealer leakage on the outside...look at what I found...engine is turning over with starter but not front crank...should I be worried it might not seal up....Have Charles at Tinkers Mach. Shop working an extra head I have....pistons have .065 on them in the Cabriolet and look clean as are the cylinders...
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