Ok, so it goes like this... I want to get a bitchin' look on The Zephyr..... LOL Ok, for real this time. I have searched and found a hundred posts on DP90, but none on how to use or apply it. I want to shoot the under side of The Zephyr with DP90, but I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to paint. Is there anything I need to be careful of when applying an epoxy primer? Also, do I need to use a reducer, activator/hardener? If so can someone tell me which to use? Also, I am aware that it's illegal in Cali now, but there is more then one way to skin a cat. Any tips are greatly appreciated...
It is a two part primer and can be reduced. The directions on the can are what I followed. Will you be spraying over it? I have it as a top coat on my truck but it does not like chemicals.
I will eventually, but it is going to be on there as is for awhile. It is my understanding that if I don't get to the top coat on within in a week that I will need to shoot it again. Is that true? Also, what do you mean it does not like chemicals?
Sun fade's it really quick. Spilled gasoline will stain it. A urathane (spelling) semi gloss i.e. John Deere 'Blitz Black' will hold up. Eastwood has some shade's of chassis black.
As far as the sun mine has held up pretty well but the gas/brake kleen and even the cheap degreaser that is used in my pressure washer made it turn chalky in the areas it came in contact with. I used KBS coatings for the bottom of my Plymouth. Brush or spray, pretty durable, shiney and cheap! The PPG is some high end primer!. And the coat must be roughed up prior to top coating (if more than a few hours I thought).
look for northstar epoxy. its legal in socal. and is similar to ppg. in all honestly though, i would seal with epoxy, then put a couple coats of a flattened black urethane on it for it to last. i recommend sem hot rod black.
We did my brother's '54 Cadillac in DP50 (gray), then ran it two years (summers), then simply scuffed it with 600 and sprayed a colored primer over it (did not reseal it with DP50)...that was back in 2002, got 'er done just in time for the Lonestar Round-up in 2004...the primer still looks good and the DP50 has held it securely (no lifting anywhere)... R-
Go to the PPG Refinish site and do a product search for DP90LF, and read the Product Data Sheet...that will give you more info. I could not get a link to work if I posted it in here, sorry. Mike
Blitz Black? don't so it... if you ever want to put a real paint job on the car it's gotta come off...
Oh man. This dude I know didn't believe me when I told him that. He believes me now. 5-Star still makes a black acrylic lacquer primer, marketed under the name "Hot Rod Black". Don't know how well it holds up over time, my guess is you'd want to scuff and re-shoot it once in a while.
one of the catyliszed single stage semi gloss blacks are much better than dp primer for a final coat you are going to run as the others say, it chalks up and fades rather quicly and looks shabby when stained i use RM uno , or sem hot rod black, or the semi flat that pcl makes skull
dp90 is actually a great sealer and will stick like poop to a blanket. But you should top coat it with something more durable. I have seen some that were top coated with matte clear from bc cc system and they looked good and the clear will protect from the sun and elements. I usualy spray dp90 and top coat within an hour so i don't have to resand it. Hope this helps you.
I painted my 37 Chevy pu in 97 with DP red.I'm just a hobbist painter,painted it over sanded acid washed metal that wasn't any thing special.I sold the truck a few years ago and the paint is still on and not really faded all that bad.
Guys, he wants to shoot the UNDERSIDE of his car with it. I don't think that UV/sun fade is going to be an issue...lol. Yeah, read the PPG data sheets, it'll tell you all you need to know about how to mix and shoot it. And talk to your supplier too for more tips. They are usually quite helpful. I shot my pickup with DP74LF (same stuff, but 'red oxide'). It flows and covers beautifully. I'm an amateur, not a pro. I used a HVLP gun.
I don't remember all the numbers, but there are two metal prep stages that are supposed to be done before applying the primer. One is a metal cleaner and the other is an acid etch. If you want maximum adhesion and durability, I'd follow the manufacturer's recommendation on that kind of stuff. You can get the directions and MSDS (in case you want to know what you're dealing with and take necessary precautions, like an air supply respirator) from PPG website.
I've used it quite a bit. It mixes 2:1, with a splash of about 10% DT870 reducer, sprayed through a hvlp 1.8 tip.
Wouldn't the road films and dirt stain the DP 90. My coupe was painted with it and we didn't know it would stain and fad from the elements. two scents worth.
I used Rustoleum ($30 a gallon from Home Depot) mixed 2 to 1 with laquer thinner sprayed it with my plain old big lots bottom feed gun layed down smooth and hasnt faded from the sun. Just throwing this out there, alot cheaper than DP90 and seems to last alot better
We did my 32 with dp90 had all the problems that everyone else had went to Central Tractor and got valspar flat black , $50.00 gal paint reducer and activator two yrs. still looks good John
dp90 is great, it's the best there is for epoxy. you can reduce it legally you can not so shshshsh. if you want the outside and you want it super flat?? 15-20 percent. if your going for coverage?? and protection?? don't reduce it. but if you want it to look good reduce the shit out of it and top it with a base. the epoxy will only hold up so long, it too will break down like any other primer or sealer. it will eventually chalk up. top it with a chemical coating, something that will hold up, good luck
we did my buddys car, and yea it still not faded. and it was real cheap. its just for now though, its been about two years too.
Thank you for all the help guys, I apreciate it. I shot the a-arms for the frame today with the DP90, reduced 10%, with the fast drying ppg catalyst. I plan on top coating with the SEM Hot Rod Black tomorrow. The DP seemed abnormally glossy around an hour or two later. Is this normal? Does it flatten over time?
Ditto on the valspar flat farm equipment black, if you add hardner it turns satin and lasts forever. Thats what we use on most our car frames.
5-Star still makes a black acrylic lacquer primer, marketed under the name "Hot Rod Black". Don't know how well it holds up over time, my guess is you'd want to scuff and re-shoot it once in a while.[/QUOTE] I have shot the hot rod black and it held up great.I am a fan.
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