Mopar 360 ???'s

I have a '77 360 that needs to be rebuilt but I just want to get it running right now. It runs but barely. Pulled the valve covers and intake manifold and have three bent pushrods (cyl#'s 1, 4, & 8). I'm new to this Mopar motor and need some answers to a few things.
How do the rocker arms, rockers, pushrods, etc. get their lubrication? Looks like from up through the rocker arm?? Then drains down to the cam.
Also, with engine in this state of disassembly, can I test the oil pump and see if its working ok - by spinning gear at bottom of the dist.?
Any ideas how the pushrods got bent? Thanks.

 

oil comes up thru a passage in the head to around one of the rocker shaft bolts, into the rocker shaft, to lube the rockers.

You can't turn the oil pump if the drive gear is in place, the cam won't let it turn. You can try to remove the gear (it has a shaft below it), then use a hex socket and long extension (or a prelube tool) to turn the pump.

 

The oil goes from the number 4 main bearing up to the number 4 cam bearing where a hole drilled in the journal lets oil up to the heads when the cam lines up that way. Once in the head the oil travels down the rocker shaft and onto the rocker arms where it splashes on the stuff up there.

You can test the oil pump by removing the drive gear and driving the pump with a hex drive priming attachment. The test wont tell you much, as the only way that it won't pump oil is if the shaft is sheared or the bypass is jammed open. If you are worried about it, pull the pan and open up the pump, if you see nasty scars or lots of wear that will tell you lots more.

If the motor has sat for a while and someone tried to start it that is likely the source of the bent pushrods from stuck valves.

 

First thing I thought was the timing chain and or cam gear. Replace this before you do anything and buy a really good one.

 

I'll agree on the plastic drive sprocket maybe being the problem. Seen that happen several times. Also, watch out when getting stuff like a harmonic balancer and torque converter because the 360 is externally balanced.

 

Thanks for the responces. Upon further inspection I found two more slightly bent pushrods. ??? They are all intake pushrods. Should that tell me something? One of the valves was stuck and I freed it up with slight taps with a rubber mallet. The rest all seem ok.
I just wanted to get this running ok before I set it into my '30 Plymouth for mock-up and motor mount location, etc.
Should I get new pushrods and re-assemble then try to see how it runs, or am I waisting my time and just remove the heads and rebuild them?
Thanks.

 

if all the valves move now, and you want to fire it up, pull the timing cover and put a new timing set on it- it's probably out of time, which could explain bent valvetrain parts. and since it's easier to reseal with a new oilpan gasket at the same time get yourself a reusable one piece pan gasket (use it again later), clean out the pan inspect the pickup look for anything hinkey.

 

OK, I'll be the nay-sayer...With bent pushrods and stuck valves you have no need to attempt starting this engine. The potential for additional damage is there. Obviously, the engine is tired and has not been well care for or else the valves would not be stuck.
If you only need the engine for mock up then it does not need to run. Also, why throw parts ($$$$) at it when a rebuild will be in order?
The 360 is a great engine and also readily available in 'crate' form. Look up any of the big rebuilding companies for relatively inexpensive long block assemblies.

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I agree with 73RR, if you have bent pushrods, you have bigger problems, probably some bent valves as well. Tear it right down for an overhaul or rebuild or look for another one.

Most likely the timing chain jumped as stated above, and there are bits of valve seal and teeth from the timing gear in the oil pump waiting to jam the rotors.

 

Could be that the engine was run for a little while with old fuel, and gummed up the intake valve stems/guides. This will bend intake pushrods.

 

Another thing to check is the cup in the lifters.I had a couple stuck in my 361.I pulled them all out and put them in an old ice cube tray so I knew where they went.I soaked them in Sea-Foam an lightly tapped the piston in the lifter until it popped free.I then disassembled,and cleaned them.A few new pushrods and good to go.That Sea-Foam is good stuff.

Fuzzy

 

The mopar 360 is a good engine,if you"re really serious about using it do it right,Iworked at a dodge dealership in 70"s and found out quick,do it right the first time or you"re just asking for problems down the road,lots of things on mopar can cause bent pushrods,timing gear bad,wrong plug wire install,broke or stuck valve,colapsed lifter,wore out cam ,wore out rockers,just rebuild the thing and be done and happy with your effort.

 

Again, thanks for the input. I removed the front cover and sure enough, the cam gear was missing a few teeth. With everything adding up, its a little more damaged than I expected. So she's coming out for mock-up and then gonna get it rebuilt. Thanks to all.

 

When you start an engine on old stale unleaded fuel and run it until it reaches its designed operating temperature, then shut it off for the duration of a complete cool-down, the intake valve stems literally glue themselves to the valve guides. That's because the gummy stale unleaded when heated spreads itself up and down the intake valve stem and solidifies when it cools down - locking the stem to the guide. That will bend pushrods when you go to start it next time. However, when the stale unleaded goes through combustion, it burns (obviously), goes past the exhaust dry and does not coat the exhaust valve stem. The exhaust will never stick because of this.
Anyway, do your mock-up, then rebuild the engine. At this stage in its life it needs it.