Turns out it was only running on 7. Heres all 8 tuned in. <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/uQRCW3Yw4N8&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/uQRCW3Yw4N8&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object> <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/aeKZnE0jKMM&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/aeKZnE0jKMM&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object> ENJOY! I know i do!
I see that - running the engine that hard with no water pump circulating?... hum. Maybe it's just me, but I would not do that.
Love a lumpy cam, I have too much cam in my '46, but i like the way it rocks from side to side while idling...
Way i figure it, your thermostat doesnt open until bout 190 ( mine atleast ) so not very much water is circulating anyway. I would have a fan belt, but i went to put my generator on, and nothing lines up . Now i get to make all new mounts. WHoo
Not true. The thermostat sends the circulating water to the radiator when the appropriate temperature is reached. The water pump is pushing the same gpm at start up, taking initial heat out from the heads to the lower block for total engine warm up/equalization. Having no running pump can quickly lead to hot spots/localized boiling, then to warped decks/puked gaskets, before the block even gets hot. Not that you damaged your engine, but dont count on that temp gauge to warn you (it wont be reading true temp anyway without circulation).
AH! Well thank you! learn somthing every day! That was the last time the motor would have been ran without a pump anyway. Making the bracket today.
Is that a puddle of fuel under your accelerator linkage combined with the temp sender wire haning up on it. Also, the stray wiring harness looking to ground itself on your carb/ intake? I woun't stick my hand there if it is fuel I see there.
It is MUCH more important than you think. The water pump circulates coolant internally when the thermostat is not open. There are internal passages that you must make sure are unclogged when doing a rebuild or a flush. The coolant MUST keep moving at least somewhat or you will very quickly get localized hotspots that can crack or warp different areas of the engine. When you quickly get a steam bubble forming in a hot area, it has insulating properties (hotter faster), and quickly exaggerates and accelerates the big differences between the hot areas and the cool areas just fractions of an inch apart from each other. Swell, shrink, twist, squirm, crackle, pop, all in small local areas inside the engine that you will not notice by ear or by eye. There needs to be at least some coolant flow at all times.