Okay,I got my new,ribbed,cast aluminum,go fast timing chain cover from moon. The one that takes the pump. Its going ona 354 hemi. Do I need to drill the timing gear for the spud(if I can find one) or does the cam or both? Also does the stock crank seal get eliminated when I use the proper damper,also eliminating the stock hub(blower motor)? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm not sure what you mean by spud, Our Flat Ford motor had a hex head cap screw that went in the cam and the hex shaft of the pump just sliped into the cap screw.
Well hell Kris, that would work. I've seen on e-bay a part called a drive spud. Looks like a small,round plate that has three holes in it,coming out of the center is what looks like a very short piece of allen wrench. I always see em for small/big block chevys. One more thing learned on the hamb,duh. Thanks Kris
To the best of my knowledge the crank hub should be machined to work with the stock front seal. At least on the last blown sbc that we used a hub with which was 5-6 years ago, it was but, heck I don't remember. You're probably better off not listening to me...
make sure you get the right threads for which ever way your cam spins (holding the bolt while spinning the motor should thread the bolt in) I know ford flatheads are backwards compared to sbc but i can't remeber if it was right or left hand threads.
I just searched "drive spud" on ebay $30-50, and then I went to Hot Heads Research and looked at the one for your motor $115. YIKES... I didn't even know there was such a thing I just thought every one used allen head cap screws. I'd definitely go the $4-5 route for the grade 8 allen. Is there a center hole on the cam that you could tap?
I was thinking something like that, yeah.. Something like a head bolt with a stud shaped like a hex or what ever you need for your pump drive. Remember the gasket thickness and allow enough for the cam to walk some and with a little engine-you-ity, should work out fine. All the came bolt needs to do is hole the cam sprocket and drive the shaft of the pump. Hardend also, I would think.
Back to square one? Hell thats even better, just get a allen head bolt that has the same threads as the cam gear bolt. and btw we used a grade 8 allen on ours.
Perfect as long as it is long enough and also you could use a jam nut as the original head of the cam bolt would have been.
now that sounds like a helluva idea. you could just keep shortening the allen head bolt until you have clearance for cam walk & pump shaft length.
BTW, cam rotation is same as crank if chain drive (CW looking at the front of the engine), opposite rotation if gear-on-gear (CCW). Therefore the CCW cam would loosen a RH threaded Allen screw when rotating a fuel pump.
Actually you've got that backwards if the cam rotation is CCW then it would tighten a right hand thread.
Unless you've got some goofy reverse rotation cam and 2 gear cam drive to match, the cam rotation will loosen the bolt with RH threads. Its just the way the hemi crank and cam spin.
I know of some who drill and retap the cam bolt to left hand thread for this very reason. Use an allen head cap screw and a piece of hex stock for the drive. Or you can just buy the correct spud.
I'm glad you guys chimed in... See I told you, you were better off not listening to me...I do that, I miss little things like rotation and loosening bolts because of it..with my hair brained ideas..
The Jalopy Journal
