Knocked together some doors for the roadster today, here's how I did it. This is from my '26 T thread, also known as the Texas City T Bag: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=426819 First, I got door skins from Howell Sheetmetal in Beaumont, TX. They are pretty simple, some one with experience with a brake, bead roller, and shrinker/stretcher could do it. I have everything but the brake, and little sheetmetal skill, so I bought them. I measured around the doorskin and cut a piece of 1" thinwall square tubing, a few inches longer than needed. I bent it in my vise to match the curve of the doorskin. I measured and notched the bends. Made patterns from the old tried and true beer box for corner gussets. I made them a litle oversize to I can hammer the edge over for a cleaner look. I just tacked everything together for now; I'll weld it up solid after we get the cowl connected to the rear half of the body, there will probably be fit adjustments. The inner structure is pretty close to the curve of the skin. Latch edge: Hinge edge: Bottom: Really wasn't too difficult, only took about an hour. I'm off to do the other side now.
Thanks, just did the other one, this was easier than I thought. I think I will just buy a decklid skin, instead of the whole thing, and do it the same way.
Nice, will you be continuing this thread when you get to installing the latch and hinges? If so, I'll subscribe
Looks great. Did mine about like that but I had the original doors for skins including the 12 bullet holes. Just took some sheet metal and used that body panel epoxy and glued just inside the bead. Used the front of the original skins with the hinges. wish my Model a roadster door worked that smooth.
There you got it! I was hoping you didnt owe JTM 19.95 for the Natty Light!! Just my weak attempt at a joke, I dont think I am very funny though...
Looks like you didn't leave a folded edge around the perimeter. Are the doors going to flush fit instead of overlap like the original? The frame looks plenty sturdy.