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How to make T Roadster Door Structures

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Richard D, Dec 16, 2009.

  1. Knocked together some doors for the roadster today, here's how I did it.
    This is from my '26 T thread, also known as the Texas City T Bag:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=426819
    First, I got door skins from Howell Sheetmetal in Beaumont, TX. They are pretty simple, some one with experience with a brake, bead roller, and shrinker/stretcher could do it. I have everything but the brake, and little sheetmetal skill, so I bought them.

    I measured around the doorskin and cut a piece of 1" thinwall square tubing, a few inches longer than needed. I bent it in my vise to match the curve of the doorskin.
    [​IMG]

    I measured and notched the bends.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Made patterns from the old tried and true beer box for corner gussets. I made them a litle oversize to I can hammer the edge over for a cleaner look.
    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    I just tacked everything together for now; I'll weld it up solid after we get the cowl connected to the rear half of the body, there will probably be fit adjustments.
    [​IMG]

    The inner structure is pretty close to the curve of the skin.
    Latch edge:
    [​IMG]

    Hinge edge:
    [​IMG]

    Bottom:
    [​IMG]

    Really wasn't too difficult, only took about an hour. I'm off to do the other side now.
     
  2. Those will be bunches better than stockers. Looks good.
     
  3. Thanks, just did the other one, this was easier than I thought. I think I will just buy a decklid skin, instead of the whole thing, and do it the same way.
     
  4. scrape
    Joined: Sep 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,130

    scrape
    Member

    nice and simple... i love seeing stuff like this....
     

  5. RichG
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,919

    RichG
    Member

    Nice, will you be continuing this thread when you get to installing the latch and hinges? If so, I'll subscribe:D
     
  6. Yes.
     
  7. RichG
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,919

    RichG
    Member

  8. Looks great. Did mine about like that but I had the original doors for skins including the 12 bullet holes. Just took some sheet metal and used that body panel epoxy and glued just inside the bead. Used the front of the original skins with the hinges. wish my Model a roadster door worked that smooth.
     
  9. fordcragar
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 3,198

    fordcragar
    Member
    from Yakima WA.

    Nice simple door, thanks for sharing!
     
  10. Dan
    Joined: Mar 13, 2001
    Posts: 2,384

    Dan
    Member

    very cool , I need to so something with my doors...
    dont forget, you owe JTM 19.95....
     
  11. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 7,092

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    Nice work, D. Those corners look great. Very cool...:cool:
     
  12. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    Great work man!!

    Norton
     
  13. pimp! nice yob mang
     
  14. JTM, I give up?
     
  15. jj mack
    Joined: Mar 22, 2007
    Posts: 735

    jj mack
    Member

    Does Natural Light sponsor all your builds?:D

    Great Work!
     
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  18. Dan
    Joined: Mar 13, 2001
    Posts: 2,384

    Dan
    Member

    There you got it! I was hoping you didnt owe JTM 19.95 for the Natty Light!!

    Just my weak attempt at a joke, I dont think I am very funny though... :)
     
  19. Looks like you didn't leave a folded edge around the perimeter.
    Are the doors going to flush fit instead of overlap like the original?

    The frame looks plenty sturdy.
     
  20. manicmechanic
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 210

    manicmechanic
    Member

    Richard how much does that Natural Light play into the Build?
     
  21. They will fit flush.
     
  22. Heavily.
     

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