Ok, i need some help. I have a Marcel HVLP that sprays ok, but i also have a Devilbiss Model JGA - 502. The only issue is that i cant get it to siphon. What is the better gun to shoot a color top coat with? iv been using the Marcel as a primer gun, and it doesnt do the best job. Any advice?
hvlp can be syphon or gravity fed. gravity is better in my opinion. paint cost money and you get more on the surface and not bouncing around the room.
if your looking for the best quality hvlp--- iwata 400 or sata 2000-3000. excellant spray you will need a decent compressor as both are cfm hogs.
What hotrod-linkin said. When I started painting that jga was the shit, but we were spraying a lot of enamel in those days. Paint is a lot more costly now!! Gravity is the way to go. Plus HVLP is a lot better to paint bc/cc. HVLP stands for high volume low pressure. It is designed to put more paint on the car instead of floating off into space. You can pick up a two gun devilbiss starting line set for about $150. Not the best guns, but they spray pretty good when they are new, and for that cheap, when they dont just get some more.
Personally sprayed with a 30 yr old Sharpe cup fed gun and it looked great but lots of overspray in the air. Have not used a gravity fed HVLP but seen them used quite a lot and talked to painters and all say they love them. Less air pressure,less overspray,more control and doesn't wear your arm out anywhere near as fast if painting a lot. If you want a GOOD gravity fed HVLP for painting base/clear your going to usually drop 500-800 closer to 800 for a real good one but you get what you pay for
I wonder if it takes a more experienced expert to do well with an HVLP. I have done several very nice looking cars over the years, but do not consider myself an expert. I tried HVLP and did not get very good results. I hear they often have trouble with orange peel. ?? Many people talk of buffing and compounding to get good results. I am not an expert. I get much much better results with the older conventional guns. Conventional guns have a whole lot more overspray, but I sure get some nice paint jobs with much less effort the "old fashioned way". The older conventional guns seem to lay the paint down so much smoother than the newer paint-saving EPA approved HVLP guns. My last urethane clearcoated paint job with a conventional gun did not require any buffing or other work. For years I simply wiped the car with a wet rag to keep it looking great for years. No dealing with buffing or getting rid or orange peel. I just recently did a few custom bike tank jobs that looked great without any extra work after spraying. Maybe I'll try HVLP sometime later, but I couldn't get it to look right the few times I did try HVLP with a new $600 gun. I went back to my 35 year old Binks Model 7.
It depends on what you are used to. I personally use Sata and 3M, but have used a lot of the cheaper starting line guns and knock off chinese crap with good results. Unless it's a show job, all I do is nib the trash.
everyone has a different idea of what perfect is .I've shot for 20 years with a jga,mbc510,model 7.i have had great results with all,but with base clear systems and new high solids,it is crazy how well the hvlp guns work.I just shot my sons pickup this wekend and shot a high solid clear @ 10 psi. @ the cap,no reduction,only 2 coat,spray it like you want it to look,walk away with the booth @70 degrees and it looks as good as something that i would have cut and buffed years ago.......but it just depends what your looking for
all the body shop painters use a gravity feed hvlp, or compliant. old timers love there siphons for the fact of how easier it is to get a flatter finish.. but they also waste alot of paint. the newer gravity feed guns can lay paint slick and not waste alot in the air. sure if ur shooting a lacquer or enamel sure its cool to bust out a model 7. but i wouldnt.
In your case, I would use the one that isn't broken. I would stick to an HVLP just because of the amount of waste. They're more forgiving IMO.
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