Finally picked up the engine for the T Roadster project on Sunday.Traded for some T sheetmetal I had spare. It was an Industrial engine, had a UJoint on the front of the crank instead of a pulley. Also has MFI stamped on the head. Next is the Babbit-in-the-pan test....Crank has about 25 thou movement front to back in the block....Keep your fingers crossed..can`t affoed to send it down to Sane at Taylors if it needs everything...
Well hm at least it number 2 and not 4. I have 90-80-80-80 in my stock Cat Yellow diamond A block. So you got me on 3 cylinders at least still Bill. Hopefully its something cheaper to fix then honing/sleeving.-Weeks
You are on the right track. Don't go much higher then 7:1 on the compression. Babbit will hold up fine as long as it is in good shape. Make sure you up grade the distributor to something that has centrifugal advance. Cams, There is no better person to talk about banger cams then Jim Brierly. His email is: [email protected] his phone is 951-695-3713 Don't go too over board on the cam. If it has too much rumpity rump, you might not like driving it. Make sure you use single lock adjustable lifters with a base foot that is @ 1.125" dia. There are some that have a 1" foot and if you use the smaller foot lifter, it robs cam duration. I got mine from EGGE machine. You will need to bump up the seat pressure too (pre load on the valve springs). Depending on what cam you use, you need to add @ .250" spacer under the valve springs. Jim can tell you how to do this and how thick the spacer should be. Intakes are avalible, but I don't think the Burns is being made. Try contacting Dan Price. His web page. http://www.dan4banger.com/ There was a guy here is so cal that was saying that he was reviving the Evans Speed shop. His HAMB name was EvansSpeepShop. They use to make a dual intake for bangers. Try him. 81's are a good choice. 97's would be second on my list. .
I have reground cams with .365 lift one is stamped Winfield super. Just bought one that is an Isky grind with .375 lift. Jim Brierley is on the Hamb and is pretty reasonable price wise he is the one I would contact for practical advice regarding cams. Personally I would probably use a Winfield SU1R for the street. The original street cam was a "B" grind. I have found the J Brierley SU1R grind faster than the Mike Hart "Salty Dog" version sold by C Yapp. I could idle my Winfield flathead down to fairly smooth 500 RPM. That particular engine had dual "B" SR Winfields, over sized intakes 1 3/4", 7.5 to 1 Winfield "Crows Foot" repop, but this was with inserts. The prior suggestion regarding the bearings is a good one. Babbit can take fairly high compression BUT you must tune for it. Especially the timing. PM me regarding dual intakes. I have a couple extra oldies but goodies.
So does someone know what the biggest lift cam you can fit into a stock cam bore? I have heard so many different numbers that I cant keep it straight.
Thank you everyone for your help. Ill be sending a PM your way Just plain Bill. Would two 97's be too much carb on a 7:1, cam'd, and modern style distributor motor? That is the biggest reason I thought 81's would be the wisest choice (I would much rather use 97's as they are easy to find). Thank you Crazydaddyo for all that information, I really appreciate it.
Thats what I have heard to. Some time after the first of the year. I heard a rumor that the 8.5:1 wont be made again anyone else hear the same?
Friends stone stock '31 Tudor blows water out the filler neck once warned up and under load going uphill, bad headgasket?
How full is he filling the radiator? "A"'s blow excess water when too full. Usually bubbles in water/coolant when at idle if gasket is gone. Might be a good idea to check the torque on the head nuts.
Found these on a shelf in the workshop tonight, dirty, filthy black greasy diesel rockers on a shaft.. believe it or not they are 3.25" from tip to rocker ball, about 1.125 and 2.125 from centers at a rough measurement. That's 1.8 to 1. I will tank clean them tomorrow and dis assemble one rocker from the shaft and get an accurate measurement. They are from my Dad's Nissan bus/RV thing Nissan ED 30.......... 3 litre four cylinder diesel . about 1990. Sorry about the pic quality, late at night and the camera wouldn't work without the flash, that is a six inch ruler across the pedestal, and the center of the adjuster on the near rocker is at the one inch mark. I turned a couple of rockers over for another view.
97, THANK YOU! They look great- will see how easy they are to find in the US... were you planning on doing anything with those...???
Mine '29 Tudor did blow the water from the radiator filler neck when warmed and when accelerated. The head gasket was "blown"...
Thanks for the plug, but my e-mail is now [email protected]. In regards to my carbs, they are 81's, three of them is more than two 97's. If I were to run only 2 my choice would be 97's or even 48's. As to babbitt, I have run 10:1 with full babbitt on my Cook at the drags and Bonneville, no problems. I am still running the same babbitted mains that I ran in the early 70's but now with stronger than B rods, Eaubanks items.
I went through my manifolds today looking for dual stromberg manifolds and I realized that I must have become a collector so I thought I would share what I have accumulated over the years. Some of these I would part with for the right price although this is not an add to sell. The upsidedown Cragar and the Burns dual both have cracked flanges. The upside down Cragar looks as though they just inverted an updraft manifold pattern and put a 3 bolt flange on it. The last 3 are for a 4 port The Stromberg duals are a Burns, an Evans, a zephyr, a Riley, and a no name. Some may be repops. The Evans has big ports. The 2 singles are the the Cragar and a Burns. The Winfield duals were cast from Dan Iandola's patterns,the singles are just a Winfield downdraft for a "BB" the other is a no name for a "C". I also have a couple Winfield's for "B"'s. I think the single for the 4 port is for a "CC", the side draft is for "D"''s and the third is for dual Strombergs
I wouldn't be popular if I sold those ones. Planning to put them back on the shelf I pinched them from, they belong on an engine being repaired , as I said , I think from my Dad's RV, as far as I can see it is the only diesel in the shop, someone will be looking for them on Monday morning, no doubt. ( it is now Saturday morning here). I will measure properly first then check around and see if these are available ...should be, there were a lot of these engines in small trucks 10 -15 years ago.
I put the "Isky' cam between centers and set the indicator to the center of the exhaust lobe on number 1 cylinder and then to the front cam bearing which mikes 1.559. From the top center of the lobe to the top center of the bearing the difference was .027. The lift on one # 1 exhaust lobe mikes .3755 so I suppose a .400 lift would be possible. Actually if you included possible wear in bearing bores you might get a few .001's over .400. I guess I just have too much time on my hands!
Bill, I think that you ought to mention that the .375 lift was possible because the base circle was ground so much smaller-- Herb Kephart
The question was regarding how much lift was possible. As no one else answered I took it upon myself to give a "ballpark" figure The base circle is small on that cam. I'm not a cam grinder but I think you would have to have a pretty much stock "B" core to begin with to achieve max lift. Or buy a blank from one of the companies that supply them. This is a question for 4 port to answer. I'm sure he could give you exact dimensions. I have seen cams that were/are ground under the base diameter of the core to reach the desired lift/duration. If I remember correctly the "A" cam had .300 .312 so quite a bit of material must be removed/ground from the base circle in order to reach a .360+ lift with more duration. These are my thoughts as I don't design or regrind cams. I just rely on those who do it to advise me. Actually, I'm surprised at how spindly some of these reground cams look. Seem like they would have a severe deflection problem. I have some supports made by REM but not sure how to support the front 1/2 of a "B" probably just a hook I suppose. But it would seem that the Riley's with their 2 intake valves per cylinder would already have double springs so if you installed stock "A" springs you would, in affect, have 75 80 lbs. on the seat not sure if that is correct but it is my assumption. For "normal" street engines I don't think you need a lot of spring pressure but when you go over say 3500 4000 you will probably need spacers under the springs depending on the grind. I have 1/4" under the springs on a J Brierley SU1A. I just spent $600 dollars to have the rocker arms rebuilt for my 4 port as there are no after market arms available at this time. The prior owner of the head had double springs on it and it was used as a street engine. Also the guy didn't know that original Rileys don't have pressure oiling to the rockers so must be periodically oiled. As I was once told " I can't tell you much of what TO do but I can tell you a lot of what NOT to do"
Hello, I have been searching for someone that owns a Lion Speed head. Depending on who you talk to they either love or hate. I am not sure who to listen since i am relatively new to A's. Having said that I would love to know if you had to modify the head at all or did you put it in straight out og the box. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Jay
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