the stuff basically is a waste of time to use, as we all know the styrene and talk in bondo are shaped like spheres, and are incredibly light weight and easy to cut with sandpaper. By replacing the talk and styrene with aluminum you now have put stuff in that will clog the sandpaper and is hard to cut, without really making the bondo any lighter or stronger. If you really want to use a reinforced filler stick to the kitty hair or the mar glass type, because at least you get the benefit of a reinforced filler instead of just some aluminum powder added to resin.
I would not recommend using it for powder coating. If it worked for you you got lucky. It will work sometimes but more often than not it will fail during powder coating. It is completely dependant on how hot the powder coater bakes at and the cycle times. How quick the part heats up and cools. There are some metal based fillers designed for powder coating but the basic metal fillers are not.
That's true, my powdercoater was a little afraid but I said I wouldn't hold him responsible if it turned to crap. I used All-Metal and it worked like a charm. It's held up for 4 or 5 years...no cracking, no peeling.
Yeah if it comes out fine it will last it's just about 80% of the time it comes out of the oven bad. For most not worth the risk especially when there are products out there that will work everytime.
All-Metal was the shit many years ago with some things to consider. 1st if you waited too long to sand it you deserved all the pain of trying to level it. 2nd is you ended up looking like a martian with silver skin from the dust. When you had it down you truely could level right into sheetmetal with no edges or swelling, but like anything else too much still could move around under the primer and paint. In the end I found it to be more $$$ than it was worth and simply added to the misery of fillers in general.
Bondo does not stick very well to lead and brass so we use a thin coat of All Metal over these areas then bondo over top.
All Metal has been around for many years and before that there was Alumi-Lead; which wasn't as easy to use. Alumi-Lead had a powder and resin; which you mixed together and then it set up. These fillers seem to be well suited for some applications (like was mentioned earlier) and others it is easier to just use bondo.
the biggest problem is it isnt flexible it will crack very easy and likes already been memtioned its harder to work
Be sure to start sanding and forming it (80 grit paper, or cheese-grater) before it fully sets up, but as Bondo goes, it is more durable.
that's what i used to use it for, and occasionlay still do. it will stick better than bondo, and it seals better. to keep it from ghosting though, you need to either heat it up while curing, or wait along time before painting, as its guarenteed to shrink later whenever i use the stuff, it gets cured with the infra-red lamps, ground and bondo'd over. its not for every job, but its got its place skull
Great, I used it on the seams of my 56 F100. Was a PITA to sand. Now I'm going to be paranoid about cracking. I did not put it on thick.
used to use it all the time on sail panels and windshield posts, tight skim coat on patch panels, putting it on and not sanding it till the next day! worked better the harder it got. shit would stick to anything but a pita to sand.
if you welded them first, that works fine, and the all metal seals the weld pretty well. if it was just applied across the seams, without welding, there is no filler that will hold up too long for that skull
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