I did a search and it's been a couple years since this product has been mentioned. It seems pretty nifty- I just ordered a big jug of it for my blasting business. Here's more info... Picklex®20 by International Chemical Products, Inc. is a multi-faceted product. It acts as a metal surface cleaner, 100% rust converter, rust inhibitor, and protective coating. It removes mill oil, dust, surface rust, and white rust, while providing a conversion coating in 1 treatment. It's the ultimate solution to your metal surface preparation and pre-treatment needs. <table border="0" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td align="center" valign="middle"> </td> <td align="center" valign="middle"> Efficient Metal Treatment Product Picklex®20 saves a lot of time, labor, and costs, and prepares the metal surface for painting and welding, providing a long-term rust protection. It is applied by spraying and brushing. It can be used on new, bare metal, or rusted metal under any level of humidity. The product does not cover up rust; it chemically changes 100% rust (including mill scale and micro-rust) into a high-performance, corrosion-resistant, conductive, metallurgically-protective coating. The result is the complete removal of oil, rust, and dust. Primer coating is not necessary. </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table style="height: 209px;" align="center" bordercolor="#000000" width="664"><tbody><tr><td bgcolor="#c0c0c0">Industrial Applications:<table style="height: 148px;" bordercolor="#000000" width="218"><tbody><tr><td> Maintenance (Repaint Jobs) New Metal Painting Welding Ship Building Automotive Body Painting Highway and Bridge Painting OEM Structural Steel Fabrication Metal Furniture Restoration Old car restoration </td></tr></tbody></table> </td><td bgcolor="#e4e4e4">One-Step Metal Surface Preparation<table style="height: 164px;" align="center" bordercolor="#000000" width="382"><tbody><tr><td> High Performance, 1-Step Rust Converter/Inhibitor/Primer Ready to use Metal Surface Cleaning and Conditioning Compound For New and Rusted Metal (Ferrous and Non-Ferrous) One-Step Metal Priming Increases Weld Strength Considerably with Minimum Surface Preparation No Weld Spatter Approved and Used by Major Industries Shelf life more than 4 to 5 years </td></tr></tbody></table> </td></tr></tbody></table>
I guess you have to call the company to order it, did not see a price on their website, or a way to order it? Did you guys order it directly from them or do they have suppliers? Also wanted to know how small an order they would take? I use a bucket of muratic acid to dip small parts in-works great! (yes, I am careful with it, and dispose of it properly) The problem is the flash rust after you rinse it, it looks like this product would be great for that?
I have used it,works great.Coat bare metal after blasting items for people who don't always show up promptly so they don't get any flash rust while it sits.
Sounds familiar. There was a product called keyphos (sp?) a blaster I use uses but be said it's called something else these days, that could be it. Everything he does gets it and it leaves a dull grey colour - kinda like primer - and the bare metal seems to stay good for months even a year+ depending on where you live.
Im planning on using this stuff for my project also. Im slowly but surely sanding things as I go along, and im gonna put this stuff on bare metal to keep it from rusting til im ready to shoot everything with epoxy primer. Does anybody have a idea how much i would need for my pickup bed, fenders, and the inside of the body?
Actually I've got a 1957 Nomad that I stripped the frame then it rained and now it sat for a time and has alot of surface rust to deal with before I repaint it black. What do I use as opposed to sand blasting?
Dont you have to remove the residue by rinsing before primering? Most phosphoric acid based cleaners have to be cleaned before epoxy primering. Ask me how i know!
hi ok i have blasted off as much rust that i can get to now can i use rust inhibitor i have [ oxisolv from eastwood ] inside and outside doors and on panels ect then prime with etching primer then plactic filler on top of the etching primer and urethine primer and urethine top coat is this correct thanks for help
I saw a video of one where somebody sprayed it on with a plastic spray bottle and he just rubbed it with some steel wool , I think. It was behind the rear wheel on I think a mid '80's Monte Carlo. I need something simple to use like that.