I dont suppose those massive wheels had anything to do with it... I wonder what the Stock class 409 guys did to keep their rears from exploding.
I remember in the 70s buying those center cections for my buddy's 57 BelAir for 15 bucks. I also remember changing it out twice in one year.
Yes indeed It put down 499.8hp and 485.6 tq to the rear wheels witch should be right at 623hp at the crank. Only 6.5 lbs of boost.
I've blown those rears with a lot less than that. didn't take me 3 to figure they were weak though... I pretty much figured it out after the first one.
there is a beaf up kit they sell but I can't see spending that kinda $ on a Bandaid. I left out easy and rolled into it, to do this .
I just thought I would wait till winter to build a rear, But not know i'll just start driving my caprice and start a month early.
cool longroof dude! 9" ford is good choice and you don't seem to be concerned about bolt pattern so here is another option: toyota truck rearend as they have larger dia. axles,4.5" bc., are everywhere cheap,also have dropuot 3rd member. it's the rearend all the "hoppers" use so they don't bend housings. had a warmed over sb. ford in a 75' toyota truck and couldn't blow the rearend out.
wow, sure glad my wagon has a 100 hp 283, haha won't have to worry about that! yeah a 9" is better for your beast of a motor and MUCH cheaper bearings but if your bearings were good want to sell em???
do you know how wide they are? what years? and are different years different widths? what gear ratios do they come with?
Haha, are you kidding me??? Having ridden in your car, I'm surprised you'd stuck with the original rear end at all. Assumed you had a 9" already...oh well, something else will break after you swap the rear end out.
Steel caps, then when the stock axles start snapping, aftermarket axles. All patchwork fixes on a too weak design. And they were destroying these rears with narrow, rock hard pie crust slicks. Imagine racing these rears with modern tire technology and current H.P. levels. Stand back brother! <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
With the weight and horsepower you've got, you'll probably save time and money by starting with a Strange carrier, Daytona pinion support, and good axles. Then you can start working on that two piece drive shaft! Aren't hotrods fun!! Larry T
The GM 12 bolt is suposed to be stronger, the NASCAR guys use 9" because it's easier to change the gears out.
my uncle had a 61 chevy in the sixtys and he says he put 22 3rd members in that car before he sold it he would push it down the road some when it happened so his dad wouldnt think those black marks were from him
I always carried a couple spares in the trunk of the 55. When the local yards ran out of punkins, I went to a 61 Pontiac diff. Stuck out a ways, but with the radiused wells it looked alright.
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