Hot Rods Opinions on firewall recess

I'm trying to decide if I should recess my firewall around the distributor enough to close the gap between the engine and the wall. Only talking about around 2", but I think it might make a big improvement in the appearance. Is not being able to remove the distributor any concern at all? I don't really want to reverse the firewall. Thanks, and sorry for the crappy pics.

 

I would defintely want to make sure you can remove the distributor. If you can, I'd leave the firewall alone.

 

Gashog, thanks for the input. I too think it's good idea to be able to pull the dizzy. I've noticed lots of guys have "buried" theirs into the firewall.

 

If you are not afraid of the extra work or time that it will take to recess around the distributor go for it. It sounds like you may regret it later if you didn't do it now. With the engine and trans angled down in the back alittle like it should be the firewall to back of engine looks even bigger.
I like to see stock things modified I'd recess it but, it's not my project. You have to be happy with your end result.
Thanks! for not callin' it a dizzy.
Smokey

 

I would not recess it enough that it would be locked in. I for sure would want it to be removable.
Smokey

 

This is what I was thinking. How about cutting a "notch" to the edge of the gas tank, leaving a path for the distributor. Is dizzy a bad word around here?

 

Not if you're Australian, or maybe English ....

 

How tall are you? it's hard to give up much leg room in those cars.

 

Okay, here's a dumb idea, but I'll toss it out anyway just for the heck of it. Instead of notching the firewall for the distributor, why not bump out the rest of the firewall a little to tighten up the gap? You'll gain a little space under the dash for ... um ... stuff.

 

I'd leave it or at least mock up exhaust as last port is at extreme rear and decide if clearance is adequate before shifting engine.

 

Hey Brent. I've added a few inches of length to the rear of the cab, yes it's going to be snug but I think I'm ok on legroom. I was'nt even thinking of this issue before today, but now the more I stare at that gap the more it's bug'n me.

I'd like to hear from some of the guys who can't pull their distributors.

 

Yep, I was thinkin' a piece of 4"-6" exhaust tubing tunneled into the firewall. Just in the firewall not cuttin' into the cowl edge at all. Takin' the cap off of distributor will gain a couple inches so maybe the recess doesn't have to go real high.
The other thing to remember is when you move the engine/trans back you loose some foot room 'cause the trans tunnel moves back too.
One move affects the next move it's tough to plan it all out sometimes. Ask to get some ideas to filter through that's why we are here. Nobody has all of the answers. I like to get ideas from early 60's Popular Hotrodding magazines. 'Cause I like that era of hot rods.
The " dizzy" thing is just a pet peeve of mine.
Smokey

 

It sounds like you are on the right path. The HAMBers are commin' up with good info.
You guys make this a cool place to be.
Smokey

 

Thanks guys, this is all good info and what I wanted to hear. Good thought about the exhaust. I don't have my headers yet, I suppose they would help "hide" the gap. Maybe a subtle notch to help with the angle.

 

Looks like the motor is tilted forward or the front of the motor is lower than the back. If so this is a problem in its self and if ya have to raise the front of the motor to get the right degree on the carb flange then your going to loose even more room between the firewall and the distributor.
Just an observation may just be the pics.

 

Unless it just looks that way in the picture, your going to raise the front of the motor quite a bit to level the carb plate. If the motor is setting where it is going to stay (front to back) then you don't have a choice, cause that isn't going to clear.

 

I'm still in a rough mockup. Trying to sort this kind of stuff out before it's too late. The motor and trans are sitting on wood blocks. As one of the guys stated earlier, when the motor is tilted back properly the gap will be even bigger.

 

One more thing to think about is the plug wires. If you make a narrow recess ( like I mentioned earlier) the plug wires may hit the edge of the firewall where the recess meets it.
If you don't recess at all and run the plug wires behind the valve covers that would take up the look of the gap also.
What about radiater/grille and front axle/wheelbase? Will things get too long without recessin' it?
Smokey

 

Hadn't thought about plug wires. Yes, the wheelbase is going to be on the long side. Around 117". I thought a couple inches here and there would help with that.

The pics are a little misleading. The frame slopes up at the front. The motor is actually tilted back a few degrees.

 

Any way to ease the body back a bit and/or move the engine forward a bit?...

 

I can still move pretty much everything at this point, but I'm concerned about the wheelbase being so long.

 

We're not talking a whole lot here...an inch or so more clearence would do the trick. You HAVE to be able to remove your distributor and/or cap...

 

why not just pop the firewall out and turn it around. they work great and give extra room

 

Another thought-
If you heat the firewall with a torch, you may be able to dimple it enough so you can clear the distributor. A few bumps with the butt end of a post hole bar on the firewall of my Model A was all it took to gain an extra inch or so clearance for the oiler filler on my flatty.

 

Hey gashog. I dunno, if start hammer'n on that firewall, I'd probably F it up!. Hey, I dig those rear fenders on your A, I might do something similar on mine, maybe cut a little higher.

 

the main thing is to move something, first time you get down on it it will break the dist. cap

 

Small hammer biscuit eater, you'll do fine

Hope my build can be an inspiration. I think the A came out real well.

 

I know you said you did not want to reverse the firewall in your first post but I think they look good reversed and most non-model A guys cant tell the difference. The wall is reversed in our coupe & we did not loose much leg room. I am 6'1 & I fit no problem. the whole thing was reversed & then the center was cut out & flipped back so that the ribs faced the right way. Whole thing can be unbolted from the car in one piece if the need arises.

 

Toner, seeing yours done that way makes a pretty convincing argument. Nicely done and looks good. Wonder if I would still have room for cowl steering?

 

Here is a couple of pics of the inside