I put in a new booster/master brake in my 37 Ford. Now I ran into a problem.. The arm of the brake peddle hits the steering column. How can I fix this.. Cut it at the bend down about 2 1/2". Then move it down and bolt and weld the two back together again??, or heat the arm somewhere, and bend it to the left, and heat it again and bend the arm back up again??, or put some 1" square conduit under the mounting bracket and move it out from the frame?? Thanks.. Al
The quickest would be spacers to move it over, but use solid material not tube. Second would be heat and bend arm under the floor.
See if by heating and bending a small Z into the length of the pedal arm, it maybe enough to offset it to clear your column. Start the Z down low near to the pivot point
Yes. A guy at Church tonight said because it is flat stock.. I should be able to just put it in a vice and bend it that way. It may need to be bent over and nudged a couple of times though to get it right. Besides.. The only torch I have is a small propane.. All that would do is get it hot..
I recommend what you originally stated. Cut out a 2-3 inch section below the bend. Enough to clear the steering column. Bevel the ends before welding to allow for grinding flush. Tack weld and fit. This new length will cause a shorter throw so you foot doesn't travel as much. Good luck!
Confused now.. I hear from one to cut it. Then another says NOT to cut it.. I will try the bending thing first.. There must be something to why it is the legnth it is.. Maybe by cutting it it might hurt how far the peddle will travel.. Not sure though..
That pedal is going to be VERY difficult to bend without heating it red hot. If you don't have access to an oxy/acetylene torch, then I'd cut and weld it to clear the column.
You can heat, cut and bend to your desire....if you cut and reweld the strength would be determined by the the one performing the weld.
If I have to cut.. It would be long enough so that I could drill a couple of holes for bolts as well as welding it.. Could I use like a coat hanger to bend out how it should end up?? Then if need be bring it somewhere to heat it up and bend it to that shape..
The coat hanger trick would work just fine. Why would you need to drill holes/bolt it? For safety's sake, I'd stay away from any additional mechanical joints on a brake pedal.
The upright length of the pedal from the master pivot to the top of the arm is long for a reason....ease of brake....when you heat and bend you will lose some of that length also by cutting and rewelding....if you stay within an inch of loss on length you will be OK....if you get it too short you will have hard braking.
Then how do you suggest I move the brake peddle arm?? The only other way would be to add some spacers onto the bolts I have that hold on the brake peddle bracket assembly. I could move that over some and that might move the alinement of the rod for the booster a little??
Based on the view angles in the pictures, I think I would cut the pedal arm just before it starts to turn towards the driver, add a 2-inch (?) long flat horizontal plate (welded) to the arm, and weld the cut-off portion to the end of the flat plate. Wish I could describe it better/photoshop what I'm suggesting for you, but I hope that helps.
Sawzall.. This fine piece came from Speedway Motors.. Cost to much to just toss in the dumpster.. Antny.. I wish you did have something I could see.. Never have done this before, and it gwetting to be a real pain in the butt. Even if I did get it to clear the column.. I dodn't want a peddle way up in the air, and the gas at the right height..
thanks.. al.. i'll cross that part off my acceptable's list.. the only thought i have for you is that I think one of my frames was a 35 and the stock 40 pedal assembly wouldnt bolt to it.. (which would indicate that the holes in the two frames are different) perhaps what you have is made to work with a 40 and needs to slide back the x member abit.. ?? I agree though.. nothin worse than a pedal thats too HIGH..
Problem here is that the frame was boxed, and most of the bolt holes were filled in.. I have the "X" member. It was cut out. I will show you a picture of the frame. You will see the bare frame. The motor mounts you see in the picture are 9" back from where tey are suppose to be.. I didn't find that out untill I had lowered the body onto the frame with the engine already in it.. Lost that firewall.. The brake peddle bracket was set up for that 77 Ford Courier. 6" booster.. Only thing I can see to do is cut the arm about 2.5" down and lowering the arm down and rebolting, and welding it to the right side of the arm. It looks like it might be more inline with the gas peddle..
Al mock it up with a thick piece of wire or a strip sheetmetal and when happy with it take to somebody who can shape your pedal as required. No need to bolt etc you will be just making it look too industrial.
ok. I see, I knew I would have issues as well.. so when I built the woodie i got one of these http://www.wilwood.com/Start/Products/005-PedalAssemblies/003-RSMP/rsmdmcbp/index.asp it just fit. behind the dash i never took good photos of how it was done.. but essentially the wilwood unit bolts into a tray of sorts that is formed by 2 pieces of angle iron welded to bar running across the cowl.. clearance with the column is still.. INteresting.. stupid a/c setup..
I wouldn't hesitate to hack it up, make it fit and weld it back together. If your welding/fabricating skills aren't up to the task, then let a good welder handle the chore. You don't need to remove that much anyway to clear your column. Your brake pedal effort will increase, but who cares. This is a hot rod. When the cops are on your ass with sirens wailing, brakes are for wussies.
I agree with what RoyalShifter said...try and keep the overall the length the same as that is what provides leverage. Just put a Z in it as close to the pivot point as you can. I also used a frame mounted m/c on my 46 coupe. I had a similar problem with the steering column, then another when I was installing the exhaust. What a pain in the ass, never again.
That is what I did with the one I got from speedway. Then I got a 40 ford pedal assembly and had to heat and bend and modify to squeeze into my T. I don't have a torch at the house so I took it to work and bent it, guessing at where the bends needed to be. First time was a charm.
I would stay on track with cutting a section out just enough to clear the steering column. Don't use any bolts. Drilling holes removes metal. Bevel the edges and weld all the way around. Mig/tig weld it. It'll be as strong as before. I don't recommend bending the arm. Bending causes stress and fatigue. The offset will also cause a twisting motion at the pivot point when pressure is applied. Eventually something will give. Keep it straight. It looks like in your picture you'll be able to make the hole in the floorboard smaller. You don't want fumes coming through. Also, someone mentioned there would be an increase in foot pressure by shortening the arm. With a booster installed. You'll barely feel an increase in foot pressure.
I have to say, I strongly disagree with your statement. I guess if you heat and bend TOO FAST that would be a problem. However, if you know WTF your doing, no problem.
Sawzall.. If I had it to do over again, and knew about this.. It a second.. Not knowing what I am doing, and having all of these problems.. Still working on it. I will take pictures when I finish for the day..
Not going to cut the arm. You guys have said that it can be bent, as long as it all stays the same legnth. I need to just bend it over about 2" at the top where the pedal sits. Then I still have the problem of it sitting to high. That adjuster part that screws onto the shaft on the booster will bring it down some, but it will still be near 6" higher than the gas pedal. Would it still be ok if I did a reversed "L"?? It would lower it, and bring it over I hope enough..
By turning that part that goes from the arm to the master shaft. Can I cut that shaft back some so I can lower the brake pedal down some inside the car?? Then I might not have to heat and bend. All I would need to do is put the arm in a vice and push it over just a little..
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