Well fellas, I did a search and did not find quite what I was looking for so here goes. Its a 65 C-10 I just got in new floors, rockers, and cab corners, I plan to strip the interior to bare metal including the floors, then spray DP-90LF. Afterwards i want to paint the interior a nice white. I do not want to worry about rust in the future, while keeping it a driver within a reasonable budget. My question, is there a better way? Suggestions?
Trying to make a 60/66 rust proof is pretty hard to do Dip the whole dam truck in oil once a year Just a question; Did you support the cab front while doing all that metalwork? The reason is that 90% of the cab weight is on the front mounts, and if you don't jack the cab up while rebuilding, you will need to shim the front mounts when you do the nose install & door fitting. Your work looks pretty darn good to me...and I did those 60/66 trucks full time for 10 years...most of them needed all of that, plus cab supports too.
I put down some rust inhibitor from eastwood on mine before I put the insulation down. My brother used the same stuff on his car he did over 10 years ago. Rust has not tried to bubble through yet.
After the DP (use 401 hardener) seam seal with two part seam sealer. Norton makes one that is used with a regular caulking gun. Then spray top and bottom with a catalyzed bed liner. Then get a shoots gun and a body wax tube, along with the wax, and coat all the enclosed areas you can get into. Any body shop supply should be able to set you up. It's not going to be cheap, but it's the best insurance for all the work done and money spent so far.
Man I know what you mean with these trucks Well the work was not done by me, Jalopy's Rod and Custom in El Paso Tx did the work. And no the cab was not supported, and that was probably the reason why we had issues with the doors afterward.
The Jalopy Journal
