overheating

I need some help.I have a custom 41 Ford coupe with a 70 455 Buick engine. The engine sits fairly high in the chassis. The radiator is a new Northern 16 x 26 alum. we are having overheating problems, We know that the engine is good and everything is new in the cooling system. The distance from the water pump to the lower radiator hose is 16", is this to far? If so what should it be? I am using a 14" fan pushing through the front. I removed the shroud at Northern suggestion, it helped but I am still overheating. It just took longer to get hot. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Bill Rolland

 

We were having overheating problems with my son's Model A too. Changed out the cheap "Stock" type thermostat for a high performance one and it all went away.

 

The length of the hoses shouldn't make any difference and I don't think one 14" fan is adequate. Your going to need bigger fan and a shroud would help. Just make sure it isn't a cheap one that looks like a cookie sheet. It should have a little depth to it and maybe even flaps. Also, when buying a fan, look at the CFM rating. Here's a nice example.

http://www.yogisinc.com/Detail.cfm/-/Product_CD=CCI-40/Category=1334/product.htm

 

I feel for ya. Just went thru it on a 54 ford with a 500 caddy. I'd suggest a systematic approach to identify the cause. I use a candy thermometer sitting in the radiator to get a "real" temp for the water coming out of the engine. (lets you know the pump is circulating properly) (also found out the gauge was off 15 degrees) Confirm with an infrared temp gun. Then check the bottom tank to see how much heat the radiator is taking out. Then I put a very powerful shop fan ( squirrel cage type) in front of the radiator to see if it's an airflow problem. I ended up with dual 12" spals and a new gauge. It's cool now.

 

Does the lower hose have a wire coil inside that keeps the hose from collapsing, the longer the hose the more it is needed.

 

Any chance you could run a stock mechanical fan? they are the best........

 

What he said.

 

I've never seen anything cool better without a shroud. I would put it back on and run a 17 inch fan if it will fit. Also if you're not going to use a shroud then place the fan as close to the radiator as possible. Also try a lower temp thermostat

 

Define over heating??

 

Could you be the Bill Rolland ,that had a T in the 50's?

 

Any way to move your fan to backside? If so the 16" electric fan is no deeper than the 14" fan. I used a 16" Hayden fan and controler on the backside of a 19x22" aluminum radiator in a 57 Fairlane with air, no shroud. Cools perfectly.

 

Puller fan works better than a pusher...but I know sometimes there's not room. Shroud always helps. Remember, good air-flow (rad fins in good condition, no obstructions, shroud present, good fan in good position, etc.) and good coolant-flow (rad flows well...pull off lower hose with cap off, rad should empty fast, no collapsing lower hose, good pump, good thermostat, no obstructions, tight fan belt, etc. should net good cooling. Check to see flow of coolant while looking into filler-neck with engine running...careful...do it when it's not too hot. Only other things I can think of...Lean fuel condition, timing way off, extreme internal friction, "exhaust-streaming", (when coolant is exposed to hot exhaust gas caused by blown head-gasket or cracked head or block) Look for air-bubbles or foaming when looking into filler neck with engine running. I've heard of some guys having to leave their hood sides, etc. off to give the air somewhere to go. Good-luck. Rick

 

Is it overheating while it is idling in traffic or when you are driving it on the highway ....? Do you have the panel that goes from the top of the radiator to the grill installed to direct the airflow into the radiator and not let it go over the radiator,,,?

 

X2

How hot is it getting? Are you putting coolant on the ground?

 

If the upper tank /hose fitting is below the intake you could have a big bad air bubble disrupting your coolant flow and doing havoc to your cooling system. Find a place to install a burp valve and use a coolant overflow tank to reduce the chances of it happening again until you get it corrected.
Always use a puller fan rather than a pusher if possible. AND make sure your factory shielding is in place, or make some, on either side of the grilled/fenders and lower pan to guide all the air through the radiator core rather than around it or over it or under it, a critical need often overlooked.

 

My solution was a Walker rad. Old rad was 1 3/4 thick, Walker is 3 13/16 thick. Fan never comes on, and we have 95 deg for months here. A pressurized system is VERY important. Test it to make sure its got good pressure when hot. With 13-15# pressure, you got water thats + - 250 deg and still not boiling. Iceman