This is the template I got, it was made to fit a full fendered Model A. I cut a oversize panel, and drew the pattern with all the measurements on it. I had to do quite a bit of experimenting to find a way to make all the ends of the louvers even. The best way I found, was to tack weld a gate right to the panel, like I did on this test panel. ( those tacks need to be pretty big, 'cause the Pullmax will brake them...)
The way you make the louver is to go over the panel once, at a shallow stroke of the die, to only cut a slit. I let the die run into the side of the gate to get the precise point of where the louver needs to end. The second time, you set the machine to the deeper finished depth, to shape the louver itself. ( I do that at a higher speed of the Motor, to get a smoother result. I do cutting the slit at the slower speed ) Since the shaping die is tapered ( that is the shape of the louver ), you dont go as far to the end with shaping, as you do with cutting. I measured the difference, and milled a little spacer that drops over the gate, to shorten it by the right amount. Here is the first louver...
By shaping the louver, you gather up quite a bit of material. So the outside edges need a bit of shrinking. Here is panel #1 after the gate is removed, and the edges are shrunk down a bit. Panel #2 layed out. And the louvers done.
You make it look easier than it is. Nice work. Layout is the most important step. Have you done curved louvers? Did you make a curved gate for the shorter louvers?
Nah... Its tricky... The Pullmax tries to force the panel away, so you have to muscle it into its place the whole time. ( and the thing beats you up...) And there are a couple of times when you could use another hand ( like when you have to let go of one side to shape the ends, and when you switch the Motor from Low to High, etc ) Its easy to loose a days work in the last couple of seconds of working on it... Thanks for the nice words, guys...
I have not done any curved louvers yet. I'll have to do a bit of experimenting to see it my Tooling will do that or not. But I have thought about it, and I've been trying to figure out that kind of special adapters I'll have to make to get the curves right. I did not make a curved gate for the shorter louvers. I layed them out on the panel one by one, and carefully stopped on those marks, freehand.
I've always wanted to see louvers cut with a Pullmax, this is the next best thing to being there. I'm sure it is a but more quiet as well. Is there a blister in the works for the area under the short louvers? Is there a HEMI hidden in there as well? Great work, thanks for posting it.
Your male die looks longer than the ones that I have used. Was wondering if your dies would make the turn required for the curve. Did you make your dies?
Yeah, its kinda loud... No blister. The lower curve of the shorter louvers follow the line of the front fender, if you stand beside the car. Not sure what engine ( I've seen the car, but I forgot to look at that. concentrating on what I had to do to make the louvers )
No, the dies came with the Pullmax when I bought it. They are kind of worn, which might be the reason its so tricky to make louvers with them. I'll have to figure out who can freshen them up for me. Fay Butler maybe?
Neil Dunder at Gitzit, www.gogitzit.com, might be able to do that. He makes and sells louver dies for Pullmax machines. If you need more information PM me for phone numbers.
Alex, Fay can do just about anything in metalworking! but I think he will send you to Clay Cook, http://www.ccookenterprises.com/pullmax/ Thanks for sharing with the group! tt
I remember when you posted about getting the Pullmax. You've come a long way figuring out how to use it. Keep sharing anything else you do. Frank
Now if you could set up to duplicate the Ford 25 louver hood sides. Rootlieb claims they can't do it and Kenny at Brookville is busy with the 3W. Might be a great venture for you. Just a thought. The FOGGER
The Jalopy Journal
