bought some rusty craigslist model a pieces today

Not sure how I feel about it yet. It would be tough to save it. The metal is very thin or gone in places. Still worth the 200 bones I gave for it I think. Anyone got some doors for me and I'll build it. I'll get some better pics of it up tomorrow. it's worse than it looks

 

Old tin is always hard to pass up.

 

looks like a deal to me! nice score!

 

For $200 its good for yard art......but you should be able make it something cool.

 

I've seen pieces in similar sell at the goodguys swap meets. if you're not too attached to it, you may consider bringing it there and selling (or swapping) for parts you do need.

cool score though, glad it's in the right hands.

 

After you give it two coats of POR15 inside and out, it will be a lot more substantial

 

Deck lid's probably worth more than you paid for all of it. It's 80 years old, it's going to be thin in places, like the hair on a lot of guy's heads.

 

You know thats not a Roadster?

 

I prolly would have paid $200 for it too.
Nice work.

 

Yeah, I know it use to be a coupe, but its sure a roadster now. Wish it was still a coupe, but you gotta take what you can get sometimes.

 

Will this really help a lot? I would like to try to save this old girl if possible. I thought about coating the inside with fiberglass to add strength and thickness. Will POR15 really add some intergrity to it?
Thanks guys. Help me save this thing

 

good deal i paid $200 bones for a rusty cowl lmfao

 

no.......

 

Do not coat it with fiberglass. Really, dont.

 

Could you please elaborate? I have a '27 T tub I was thinking of laminating with glass to try and save otherwise unusable parts. I'm sure you have a valid reason for such a strong objection. I'd like to know why it's such a bad idea so I don't make a mistake.

 

Ive never done it.... I hear of people having success with glass over steal, but Ive seen some horrible results.

Ive seen where moisture gets between the fiberglass and the steal, I think the moisture crawls through the strands.........and basically eats it to nothing. You cant see it happening, so you cant stop it till separates, then you got nothing. It can really destroy a floor or panel without you knowing.

I'm sure there are ways to do it correctly and make it work, Ive only seen what happens when its done wrong, and it is a mess. I just wouldnt do it on a keeper, and if you do it.......at least tell the buyer what you did.

 

yes im wit bishop all too often we get cars in my shop for rust repair and more often then not when we tear into it there is fiberglass in there

 

if the metal is preped right before, there should be NO problems laminating that tin,,, navel jelly the hell out of it, get it clean as possible then use something like POR15 or the like...let it cure then lay in the glass

just like painting... its all about the preperation

 

metal and fiberglass don't play well together! shorcut at best.

 

Front fenders, floor boards and tub on my 46 CJ2A were laminated with fiberglass. I don't know if whoever did it got all the rust out before they started, but it kept on rusting inside the glass. When I got to them, just about everything covered in glass was junk. Based on what I saw, I'd never do it to a car.

 

The thermal expansion and contraction of metal and fiberglass are quite different. When you laminate fiberglass onto sheet metal, it sticks okay at first, but after a year of heating and cooling cycles between daytime and night time temperatures, it starts to de-laminate. This delamination will create pockets which tend to draw in moisture from the surrounding air. And as a result of this, the metal will begin to rust in between the fiberglass and the metal.

 

OK, glad I asked. Then what is recommended? Just POR15 the hell out of this thing? I am afraid if I try to cut out the rot and insert patch panels I won't have much to weld to. Maybe its done

 

You will be surprised at how much actual metal will be left to weld to. Welding in new patch panels is about the ONLY way to make a permanent repair. All of the other methods---i.e. por15, fiberglass, bondo, etc. will give less than satisfactory results in the long term.

 

While POR15 or similar products may be capable of converting rusted metal into a more stable form chemically, POR15 will not improve the structural integrity of the metal.

 

after looking at it in the daylight today, I think it can be saved. It is so flimsy because it has no internal structure at all. I think with some bracing and patch panels it can come back to life. It may be more work than buying a solid one, but I really want to save any I come across.

 

The guys are kinda right.
Fibreglas does not stick to metal very well...BUT...
if you POR15 rusty metal then put a layer of fibreglas CLOTH on the wet POR 15
then coat the cloth thoroughly again with POR 15,
it WILL stick,
It WILL give thickness and strength to the metal

I bought a shipping container that had a VERY rusty roof with big holes rusted through.
I used cotton bed sheets to cover the holes!
I wet the rust down thoroughly with POR 15, applied the bed sheets, then wet them down with more POR 15
That was years ago and the roof is holding up just fine
I did the same thing to the floor of my 59 Ford about 9 years ago and it is still strong
I actually used a Tshirt for the Ford floor.

Paint the rusty metal with POR 15
while it is still wet, lay a cloth over the area you want to patch or build up
then wet the cloth thoroughly with more POR 15