The Starting Point... dropped, um, deuce suspension geometry ?'s

From the book "So Cal SPEEDSHOP'S HOW TO BUILD A HOT ROD CHASSIS", by Timothy Remus.

I am running the exact front end setup, so here goes.
Page 18, and I quote: "Then I set the frme at approximate ride height and checked the caster with my protractor...(cont'd)... I adjusted the axle's caster from 6 to 10 degrees, just to make sure the spring wouldn't bind, and then I set it to 8 1/2 degrees." HOW? Hairpins????

And, from the 2005 Pete and Jakes Catalog, page 3 under HOW TO BEND SPINDLE ARMS, bullet #2, I quote:
" #2 Proper steering geometry when the spindles are turned left or right is regulated by the angle of the arms. A simple guide to correct turning geometry is to project a line from the center of the kingpin to the center of the rear end. Then, make sure that the center of the tie rod end hole in the spindle arm is also on this line."
Here's the kicker. I'm running a '98 Ford Explorer rear diff, and the center is offset to one side, and not exactly centered. I just pull a point of exact MEASURED center of the diff, and not the actual yoke, right?

That being said, now, how do I determine the position of my front spindles, to ensure they are going straight ahead. I need this first, in order to install my tie rod correctly. Then, after this is determined, I can then project my lines from the spindles TO the rear diff, and figure out how much to bend my spindle arms???


AND FINALLLLLY.....
can I mount my hairpins to the frame, WITHOUT the engine, trans installed? E.g. I don't have to have wieght on the axles to do this, right?
Am I reading too much into this? I jsut want to do it right the first time. I've searched, but haven't come up with much, must not be typing in the right words...

 

Re: the Explorer diff - Ignore the position of the rear yoke. Use the center of the rear axle, 1/2 way between the axle flanges.

If the front axle is mounted in the vehicle and spindles have hubs, I would guess you should be able to make sure a straight edge on mounting flange is parallel to vehicle center line. I will be starting on the front axle soon, so will be watching here to see (hear) the voices of experience on this.

 

Clamp a long staightedge across each spindle,parellel to the chassis and use this to measure to the chassis centreline, that will tell you straight ahead.
the engine weight will change your caster angle slightly, by changing the rake.just use two G-clamps either side of the spring centre to compress the front spring a couple of inches to simulate ride height. this should be accurate enough to get the required rear mounting point for your hairpins well within the range of adjustment you will have with the clevises.

 

cool, thanks for the help. More to follow...maybe pics and a HOW I DID IT...

 

Yes.

Use only the front spring main leaf.

This will set a rolling - or about to be a roller - frame at the right level.

Works about the same with or without a roadster body.

Not sure about coupes and sedans with their heavier bodies.


Don't forget to replace the springs remaining leafs before the engine goes in.

 

thanks once again, C9! slllowly getting some work done.

 

With a level floor and running gear level use a plumb bob and draw lines and plumb marks on the floor. Alot easier to measure.

 

Here's what I did. Frame is at ride height as per simular cars with same components. Ass. front suspension with main leaf and a spacer for the rest of the spring pack. Compresed spring using two strap clamps to get spindles to line up with a target that represents the center of the tire dia. that I want to run. I took pieces of chanel that are machined to fit on the spindles and with cross bracing have them holding the front steering straight ahead.
Now I can mount my steering box and other front end parts.

 

see, that's why I asked the question in here. 200 ways to do stuff I never would have even thought of! KEEP EM COMING!!!!