Wher can I find a adapter to put a 727 behind my 354 hemi. I guess it would be stupid to put it in front, Geeezzzzzzzz... well suggestions would be appriciated, or if you have one, let me know. Thanks [email protected]
Choppintops, what else is needed besides the spacer, can you give me more information or where to get one Thanks
Check them all out before you decide. Hot Heads has them. Wilcap has them. TR Waters makes them. 73RR has Hemi stuff. TR & 73RR are HAMB'ers too. Check and ask questions, get what's best for YOUR build. Good Luck. Lucky667
Can't you just find a TF727 from a pre '62 318 Poly car and bolt it right up? The 318 Polys shared the early Hemi bellhousing bolt pattern until '62. The cool part about 'em? They might not have Park (you'll likely get one that needs to use the E-Brake for "Park", but most are push-button shifters, and they all have rear pumps (which let you push-start it, or flat tow it, even though it's an automatic - the rear pump keeps it all lubed). ~Jason
Sorry man, its been 10 years since I was deep in Hemis. I'm sure you can find dimensions online. Most guys making them for profit are probably not real likely to give out trade secrets and specs(and you can't blame them), but the last one I did, I made by myself at home from info I found on the net, because I wanst going to pay $400 or so for a spacer. I drove mine daily for a few years, so it can be done. Sorry I cant be more help, good luck
Call Bob Walker.He owns Powerplay/Hotheads He is in Lowgap NC.Has a good website with early hemi info.Jimmie King
never ceases to amaze me where the thread starts and how far away it ends up. ALWAYS cracks me up. and now i know this will go nowhere but down from here.
I guess that I must be the exception to the rule. If anyone wants to try and make their own adapter I will gladly provide them with all pertinent information and even some options that may help with their design. Why? Why not is my best response. The best we (all of us) can do is to help others and I figure that helping folks is a good karma kinda thing. The key to all of this is, of course, whether or not you can make an adapter for less money (time) than what the usual parts sell for. So, If you want to make an adapter and have a milling machine and a lathe, give me a call. Coffee is always on. Gary
Any chance you could make a crude drawing of a early hemi-to-LA adapter? It wouldn't have to be perfect mind you, just have the right measurements & holes in the right place! ~Jason
Great answer. Karma is real. Bad Karma is a,..... I will call you for Hemi parts when I figure out what's next for the 354. "Want a friend?" "Be a Friend.",........ Thanks again Gary. Lucky667
Quick question, why would you go with a SB 727 over a 904? They can be built to hold a lot of power nowadays (gotta debate the old school mentality about this subject) and it's less parasitic loss.
In stock form a 904 is usually considered maxed out behind a 318. It'd be a good choice for a low deck Dodge (or low deck DeSoto that wasn't built up too much). why risk it on a Hemi over 300 CID? If I was going to put extra money in, it'd be a 727.
The only issue for me is that the starter on a 904 sits about ½" higher than on the 727 and it crashes into stuff...like the block... That being said, tr waters claims to have solved this problem but he did not say how. Maybe he will be so kind as to speak to the subject. Personally, I don't see the need to make a 904 fit when a 727 does a better job on big torque engines. My adapter for the Flat 6&8 does use the 904 because it does not consume as much energy as the 727 and the inliners can use all the help they can get. .
Lets start with the back of the EarlyHemi block, this I have readily available on my hard drive: The trans pattern is still on paper, but I will endeaver to get it scanned. The finished product looks like this; My adapter is all steel construction, as far as I know all the others are aluminum. No, it is not heavy, shipping weight is about 14lbs. The main issues to deal with are putting locating dowels where they need to be for the trans ( it is extremely important to have the trans shaft in near perfect alignment with the crank centerline. 0.007" TIR is max before you damage the front pump) and providing the proper spacing to account for the crank extension so that the converter is back to the same relationship as on a stock 318. There is a little room to play at this point, we just need to insure proper engagement to the front pump dogs. Chrysler service manuals touch on this subject. If we measure the distance from the face of the flange to the face of the block on a 318 (or even a 440 ) we get right at 0.625". This is the number you will need to maintain when you decide on how thick your block plate will be compared to the thickness of the flange adapter. The flange adapter is required so that you have a place to hang your flexplate. Make the Hemi flange 'look' like a 318 flange. This process can also be accomplished if you weld up the flange and machine it to match a 318 flange. This also provides the opportunity to change to 6 bolts instead of the 8. Cheaper flexplates! Cheaper flywheels! After the flange work is finished then measure for the block plate thickness. I'll try to get the trans dims soon. Gary .
"Quick question, why would you go with a SB 727 over a 904?" 727 is alot tougher trans than, a 904, from my expierience, the A and B RB version are just a bellhousing difference but the internals are the same for the most part from what i understand. dont forget to hook up the throttle pressure switch correctly. otherwise the tranny wont last long! at wot it shuld be all the way twords the rear of the vehicle
Go with Will-Cap. I have this get up on my 5 speed DeSoto and I love it. I will be buying another set up like this for my blown 392 Dodge Blackout. Yes the bolt pattern is the same, yet the later bell housings get skinny on account of the skinnier engine compartment, moving dowel pin location. It's the dowel pin locations that are of utmost importance. With Will-Cap you'll get the crank spacer also. The adapter looks somewhat strange. You will soon realize why. There is room for you to skinny your fingers in there to bolt the flywheel, if need be, or flex plate up. Remember the early hemi cranks are not threaded, so you have to handle both nuts and bolts and washers, and belly button fuzz, and ear wax, and coolies and, etc........ with a couple fingers............Nothin' like a Roundhead!!
Is there a particular 727 to use other than a small block one? I'm gathering parts for my 276 Desoto Hemi. Mark
The BB ones have a different bell pattern. The difference between the hemi & SB pattern is the locating dowels, so your bell holes line up, just use longer bolts that go through case, adaptor, motor.
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