The water outlets are different on the two manifolds. On the C3BX the outlets come out the top of the crossover. If I was putting a 283 in front of a Glide and expecting good street performance, I'd err on the conservative side with my cam and heads. The converter that stalls your 355 at 3000 rpm isn't going to stall a 283 nearly that high.
Not really a jab. Just wondering how zealous you were going with the details. I was also kind of wondering if the elements were even widely available for the canister style anymore. I've always converted mine too and never even looked into getting the old style.
No problem, and I appeaciate all the advice given, and yes I realise that no matter what I will cut some corner somewhere in regards to "period correct" I just want to make sure as I collect parts that I did my best to make sure they are compatable. And to visually look as mid 60's as I can.
I just looked at the three I have: C3B, C3BX and C4B. There are three heater hose/temp sending ports on the C3B and C3BX: One at each end on top of the water runner that the thermostat housing is on, and one in front of the thermostat housing. There is also an un-tapped boss between the water passage and the front runner on the driver's side. Both of these intakes have the two-opening carb mounting pad with a divided plenum. The C4B has a 4-hole mounting pad, and two heater hose ports: One in front of the thermostat housing, same as the 3Bs, angling toward the passenger side. A second in a tapped port between the water crossover and the first runner on the driver's side. The thermostat housing on all three of mine is located slightly to the passenger side, and angled toward the driver's side. Modified Driver told me, and I've also seen pictures of them, that some of these intakes had the thermostat housing on the OTHER side. I used an angled thermostat housing to offset this difference, and then found a molded radiator hose with the same bend in it, to give it a factory look. (Damn I wish I had written down the part number of that hose! I'll need to buy another one some day, and that would have made it a whole lot easier) I also just looked, and my C3BX has a boss for a mechanical choke mount above the exhaust cross over on the passenger side. The C3B and C3BX have the same runner layout, which is different than the C4B. (C3Bs are more even in length, C4B has 2 long/2short on each side) All three have the port for an oil fill tube, and a tapped boss on the front for the alternator bracket. I'm happy with the performance of the C3B on my truck. I don't know how it will compare to something modern on a dyno, but I do plan on finding out. If you decide to start looking for a C3B or C4B, figure out which side you want the thermostat housing on, if it matters (Driver's side or Passenger side), and find a thermostat housing to go with it. Oil filter: You can still get the canister-style oil filter at most parts stores. A few years ago, when my '54 Buick was my daily driver, the local AutoZone had them on the shelf. I don't know what else takes one of those filters, but there was always a stack of them. They do make a helluva mess though. I don't know that I'd run one--too much hassle to deal with every 3 thousand miles. -Brad
100 percent period takes discipline. I started to make a 1957 or earlier 283. Along the way I lost the canister filter, put in a pcv instead of a dump tube. Got a good deal on some Edlebrock heads. You should have seen my buddies faces when I filled the holes and painted them orange.
sorry to dig this up but i had to reply, i say bore it .125 over to a 301 use 11:1 pistons, the oll offroad z cam .493/.512 and use an rpm airgap or a holley strip dominator, now yes lets compare apples to oranges the rpm airgap will give you better bottom end then top and vice verse with the strip dominator. all they do is take power from one area of the power band and move it around. i have ran 12.50's with the rpm airgap. so the choice of intakes is up to you but to realize the potential of a 301/302 you need to spin them and i would recomend the strip dominator or a tunnel ram to put the power up top in the rpms where it can be utilized.. dont be scared off of a solid cam by all this talk of bad oil. use the right oil , lube, and you have no issues.
I think building a period correct 283 with minor mods is cool. I'd say use the power pak heads and have the machine shop cut for new hard seats (unleaded) and install 1.84 305 valves on the intake side. 1.84 vales are out there everywhere, they don't shroud on the bore and a nice used set would be cheap. They'd a 1/10th inch bigger and with 3 angles on the intakes valves (back cut) and on all the seats plus a button profile on the exhaust they will flow some at low lift. Add a nice bowl blend and clean up the runners for modest gains but keep the velocity high to keep the mixture in suspension. For cam I'm with you - hydrualic. I'd use either the 300HP 327 cam or the 350HP 327 cam. Both are hydraulic and fairly mild by go fats standards, but they build decent torque at street speeds and will have good vacuum signal. If you springs will handle it, add some 1.6 rockers for a bit more lift For intake, you can't beat the look of 2 fours on an old 283-327. Even if you block the secondaries or run stiff springs on the vacuum secondaries to keep them closed. They just look so period correct. Of course a nice set of fully restored Carter AFB's with progressive linkage would be killer. Hide the alternator down low and maybe run some Tru-Ram cast iron exhaust manifolds (better flow than GM rams horns, and they are pretty good) with scrip valve covers and a vacuum dual point Mallory and you have a killer looking piece that is not like all the other guys Plus, they are SOOooo much fun to run up through the gears
Traditional is kick ass but its also a can of worms if thats what you want lol! I think the questions to ask is if whether you want to build a 50s or 60s period small block mouse with performance items from the 50s or 60s. I think you could make 400hp with fully ported 896s and 1.94 valves unshrouded,very aggressive street/strip modern roller cam (something like...late lt-1 comp 306), DZ 302 intake & tricked out 3310, fuelie 11.00:1 pistons, points dizzy, and fully ported 2 1/2 rams or 1 3/4 headers. Just my 2 cents In the late 50s roller cams did exist and Harland Sharp roller rockers were out by 1960. Isky had screw in studs without the hex and also had a rev kit. Oil Filter Canister looks way better and the canister can always get chromed. However they tend to be messy and filters are a lil harder to locate. Heads 896s is a 461 with small valves & smaller chamber 62cc. I ported a set and used 1.84s
I would NOT do that! They will look just like what they are then. I say if you want traditional then build traditional. As for the oil canister I might just run that myself on my 283 build with powerpack heads, but I might just install a plug in the bottom so to drain the oil and not get the mess. My heads are getting 1.94 intakes a good cam with an Edelbrock TR1Y with dual Holleys. Good luck with the build and keep us posted.
I agree use a set of 602 heads. fill the bolt holes with JB Weld. grind off casting and leave just a powerpack design at the bottom. A thick coat of paint a little sand more paint and sand until you get the desired cast iron look. Cheapes and best easy solution OldWolf
Bringing this back up, I sold the Edelbrock C3B and just bought a C4B. Also picked up a nice pair of Mickey Thompson V/C's with just the M/T logo and all fins, no bosses for oil breather. Also check out this months Hot Rod Deluxe, great article and building a 400HP 283 by Brad54.
DOOLEY...why would anybody change out a 350 for a 283. you do realize a 283 only has 2 bolt mains and a rope main bearing seal. but if you insist, well you could sale the 350 for enough to complete your 283...POP.
I built my 283 20 years ago. It's 60 over, I had the machine shop balance it with a 350 balancer and flex plate. It's had a comp cams 292h cam in it for the last 13 years. 462 heads with 2.02's and a little port and bowl work w/screw in studs(7/16) and Erson roller rockers. I have a victor Jr. on it with a carter 625 carb. It has flat tops in it. For a 283, I am happy with its performance. I have 3k stall and a turbo 350, the motor pulls hard from 3k to about 6800 and I have taken it to 7800 many times when it was in a car with 4:88's. I put molly rings in it and that is the one thing I wish I hadn't done. The car it's in now has exhaust manifolds, the other car had headers. Go with headers, there is a noticable differance with my combo. good luck.
I recently put a 283 in my biscayne, I knew the short block was in decent shape so I just put on 1.84 305 heads, a 266 crane cam, dual exahaust, rpm edelbrock intake and a old 600 carter. Motor runs great, would be better with some carb work. Its a 3 on the tree and I know its quicker than the 68 impala I had with a 327 and th400
On a 283, I'd only bore the block if (and as much as is) actually necessary, simply because due to the short 3 inch stroke, bore increase don't result in great increases in displacement. For example, a .030 oversize only results in a 287, a 040 in a 289 and .060 in 292 cubic inch engine. Unless your cylinders actually require boring to clean up any damage or wear, it's hardly worth the effort or expense in my opinion. Back in the old days, some guys used to bore their 283 blocks .125 over to 4 inches, to build a 301 cubic inch engine which was in someways the forerunner of the production '67 302 Z/28 engine.- but that leaves the bores too thin and on the ragged edge for reliability and power production. In addition too, usually only the early 283 truck blocks have enough meat in them to take a 125 overbore and even that is dicey.. When Chevy created their 302 Z?28 engines by the way, they started with a 4 inch bore 327 block and used a 3 inch stroke 283 crank, rather than boring 283 blocks block out to 4 inches. One safe, low buck possibility to gain a usable increase in displacement would be to use a small-journal 327 crank and "off the the shelf" 307 pistons. The '2-bbl carb only' 307 wasn't considered a performance engine, but that was only in relation to the 4-bbl 302 and 327 hi-po production alternatives at the time. There nothing inherently wrong with them as they're basically just a 1/4 inch stroked 283. With slightly bigger valves better cams and a 4-bbl carb, OMC actually used the 307 as a base to produce some fairly healthy (225, 235 and 245 stock hp) marine engines, so don't rule out the possibility of stroking your 283 to create a 307. For intake valves, as other people have already stated, don't go bigger than a 1.94 intake on 283. Even if you notch the bores for 2.02s, the valves will still be excessively shrouded and not flow any more than a 1.94 valve. A good possibly if you don't want to use 1.94 valve 327 heads (and mill the hell out them to maintain your compression) and you want to keep the original 283 castings, would be to open the stock 283 valves seats up to 1.85 or a 1.90 inch size and cut down some stock 1.94 valves slightly to fit . That way, you'll maintain your original compression and the heads will probably flow within 80 or 85% of what a set of 1.94 valve 327 heads will flow. On the street, on a 283, below 5000 rpm , the slightly smaller ports in the 283 heads combined with a 1.94 valves cut down to 1.85 or 1.90 will probably outperform the bigger 1,94 valves 327 heads You mentioned you wanted to run stock manifolds. If you mean the 'rams horn' type, look for a set of the better flowing Corvette or medium-duty truck manifolds with 2.5 inch outlets as oppressed to the standard 2 inch outlet passenger car castings. The medium-duty truck manifolds are still fairly common in truck boneyads by the way and are the same castings as the sought-after "2.5 inch Corvette" manifolds, so don't pay big bucks for "Corvette" manifolds, - that in all likelihood probably actually came off of a truck engine in the first place! Your C3B intake is a good choice except that with stock 283 heads the manifold runners will be bigger and overlap the ports slightly. You can solve that easily enough, by using some bigger 327 or 350 intake gaskets as a pattern and then grind the mouth of the ports out to match the gasket size. Don't go crazy with grinding though- just open the mouth of the ports up enough to match the gasket size While your at it too, you may as well compare the manifold ports to the gasket openings as well and port match the manifold to to gasket size if required too. About a carb - if you want a Holley 4-bbl for .a 283 you can't go too far wrong with the old tried and true 600cfm List-1850 carb. Just don't expect it to be dead on as you find it. 'As is' it it'll probably be close enough to work, but if you want a really good runner, you'll probably have to play with the jets, power valve and secondary springs a bit to get it 'dead nuts' for your combination. Also, if you've got enough hood clearance, a 1 inch or so 4-hole ( not open) spacer between the carb and the intake will improve mid-range torque and hp a bit/ The rear intake runners on a C3B intake won't clear a standard 'large diameter' HEI distributor, so your limited (if you can call it that) to a standard 'small diameter' Chevy distributor. If the shaft bushings in your stock 293 distributor are still good, I'd use it and simply replace the the stock points with a Pertronox or other electronic conversion. In addition I'd add an advance curve kit to tailor your mechanical advance so you end up with about 34 to 36 degrees total advance and have it all in by about 2500 rpm Try running aboy 12 degrees initial timing too. Also. unless the cam is very radical. I'd keep the stock vacuum advance mechanism too. Inecedently, the smaller 3.875 bore 283 will generally tolerate slightly more timing for a given fuel octane or compression ratio than an otherwise equal, 4 inch bore 327 or 350. If you feel you need more spark output, an MSD-6 ignition box *and/or* one of the kits to adapt an HEI module to the small base distributors, plus a good-quality copper or brass contact distributor cap and some good wires will give you all the ignition you'll ever need for a healthy street 283 Mart3406 ==============================
I have a C3B on my daily driver, with an HEI. Set the distributor down through the hole, and the base below the cap will hit the rear runner on the C3B. Mark where it contacts with a Sharpie marker. Take a die grinder with a cartridge roll, and lay it SIDEWAYS on the runner's casting, where it contacted. Grind a ditch in the runner. Grind a little at a time, checking often. You don't need more than a few thousandth's clearance to rotate the HEI distributor, so don't take out more than you need to. No problem. -Brad
I have had lots of 283's. I feel if you want to keep the old school parts it just won't be a strong engine. Especially if you are used to a 350. I have a 283 in my 26 Roadster now and it flys. But I have lots of post 2007 newer parts in it heads,manifold ,carb,headers,ignition,cam,roller rockers etc. If you want the old school look you will sacrifice performance. The 283 likes to be wound out and any parts you can use to help it do that will make it run better. I have 4.11 gears with a 5 speed Tremec. That helps too. So if you are wanting to keep it period correct don't set your expectations too high.
The heads I have are 3795896 powerpack heads, however they are cores only in that I will need all new valves both int and exh, springs etc. So I can look fo the right valves I need, and then match the springs etc with the cam I select. Sounds like my first option is to have the short block disassembled to check the bores, and at that point check the crank, and from the article I read in Hot Rod Deluxe look at new rods too. I am in the process of switching out my 1850 600 Holley on my 350 with a 3310 750, so I can use the 600 for this motor. Thanks for the tip on the exhaust manifolds. Brad54, the other C3B I had, and sold had the runner notched just like you described, and the guy who had it had it polsihed and you cannot tell it was ever there. I plan on using the old stock points type w vacuum advance, and either points or a conversion. I realize that without major $$ I'm looking at 300hp.
36-3WINDOW....ACTUALY i know their 2 piece, but the seal comes in 2 pieces that have to be cut to size for the block and maincap...POP.
Don't I feel silly. I pulled a running 350 for a '56 265 in my '35 Coupe!!! I can't tell you if it was a smart move or not because I am still waiting to get it back from the builder.
I don't understand why a group of people that go out of their way to run early Ford non-self energizing brakes and '39 Ford transmissions would question running an early style SBC in favor of a 350.
I built a 283 for our 49 truck about 10 years ago, still running fine. I used the power pack heads with 305 1.84 intakes stock size exhausts hardened seats. My understanding of the heads was a slight bump in compression, not much help with flow. I've never had a 305 but my neighbor had one in his El Camino and one head crack. He was told by a machine shop it was a common problem, I don't know how common?? I bored the block .030 .010 on crank mains/rods, used a Schneider mild RV hyd cam and a Weiand Stealth with a Holley 1850 all mated to a TH350 with 3:40 gears out back. Certainly no race combo, but it has been very reliable over thousands of miles in almost 10 years.
I understand this is a little dated (thread) but I'm a new guy and was wondering where would someone get a set of the 305 HO heads? The 57 3100 I just bought has a 283 in it and I would like to perk it up a little... Many thanks in advance.
You could check with a local machine shop, they should be able to source you a set that's already been overhauled for not a whole lot. If you prefer to start with "rebuildable cores" they should be able to get those as well. There's always C list, and Fleabay, or a swap meet. Best of luck to you.
Thank you guys for all the information. I've been hauling around a Chevy II 283 block to build an engine for a toy at some future point in time. An external oil filter is my thinking if it can be done, along with a cooler. And, I have a set of power pak heads, not for nostalgia but because I have always thought era correct meant it was meatier and could be tricked out, hardened seats and stainless exhaust valves, better springs, screw in studs. I like stick shift cars and the zest that a small displacement, short stroke enginer delivers when it's tuned for that. My Nova engine was 'sugared' by the husband of the lady who owned the car. It had low mileage, so I've always thought a clean up bore, with new pistons would solve that. No one has discussed the pros and cons of those. Any suggestions from the deep thinkers? My thoughts are to build it so it can be run a zillions miles and then re-built. Industrial quality Le Mans style, if you will. No one has discussed rods but I've read 327 rods are a better choice. What say ye on that, as well?
hello, the 1.72 intake valve heads are great for torgue but not much on h.p.. If you want h.p. you would be best served with a set of 461 castings with 1.94 intakes. They come with 1.5 exhaust valves. Since you should have hardened exhaust seats installed anyway, you would gain performance and h.p by having 1.6 exhaust seats and valves installed. more exhaust out means more fuel in. Also look up specs on line or get a chevrolet casting numbers book as it has all the casting numbers with their specs , such as int. and ehx. size and combustion chamber c.c.. I find this to be helpful when looking for used heads. chevrolet made so many different heads that its hard to know what your looking at.Good luck, keep us posted
hello, if thats a true chevy II block it would be worth buukuu coin as they are impossible to find. you can tell by checking the oil filter location, its at a different angle to the block compared to all other chevys. as for the rebuild and a zillion miles, go .030 over, 9.5:1 pistons, heads with thick castings w/ or w/o acc. holes ,and 1.94 int . and 1.5 exh.valves. run a mild cam about 440 lift and 274 duration hydraulic single stage. run a 500 c.f.m. holley 2 brl carb and look for a 2 brl intake from a 1966 - 327 . it wont have an e.g.r. as for rods you can use any rods as long as they are new or reconditioned, getting a set with 3/8 rod bolts is a plus but isn't a must as you are looking for longevity, not brute power and short runs, if your using the old bock and crank then just have the rods reconned and your good. chevrolet changed to large main journal crankshafts in 1968 i believe, so watch the used stuff.
The Jalopy Journal
