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Radiator Leak

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kid Jeff, Feb 4, 2009.

  1. Kid Jeff
    Joined: Aug 8, 2006
    Posts: 152

    Kid Jeff
    Member

    My radiator in my 60 belair just started to leak the other week. It is leaking at the top where the core meets the center section. It is an all metal radiator. Is there anyway I can just solder this back together myself? What kind of solder do I need to use?

    -Jeff
     
  2. hoarder1212
    Joined: Jun 1, 2007
    Posts: 156

    hoarder1212
    Member

    yes you can fix it. go to the local hardware store and get the solder made for copper plumbing. sometimes they will have a kit with flux in it too. and be careful it is very easy to make more holes! GOOD LUCK!
     
  3. lostn51
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,206

    lostn51
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Tennessee

    Be careful not to get the area over heated, you will loosen the solder at other joints or areas.

    Dont ask me how I know LOL:D
     
  4. rustyford40
    Joined: Nov 20, 2007
    Posts: 2,168

    rustyford40
    Member
    from Mass Bay

    The big secret is to clean it first. Really clean it.
     

  5. dirtfloors
    Joined: Oct 6, 2007
    Posts: 4

    dirtfloors
    Member

    good luck with that.
    i've done plenty of soldering on plumbing and silver soldering on on heavy copper and i still had a big head ache trying to patch a 1970 truck radiator. the core tubes burn through easy and the surrounding solder melts out before you even realize it.
    just because you can does not mean you should.
    i would not take a chance with my one and only 1960 model rady unless you don't mind the thought of trying to buy another if it gets goofed up beyond repair.
     
  6. choppintops
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,460

    choppintops
    BANNED

    I had a 59 Ranchero. About once a year I had to redo it, but I never did solderwork, and it would hold for a year or so each time.
     
  7. rusty48
    Joined: Jan 8, 2007
    Posts: 467

    rusty48
    Member

    If it's leaking at a seam you can fix it.Clean it good with sandpaper or wire brush,get acid core solder and flux,when you solder it don't get carried away when the solder runs up that seam where it's leaking stop if you get it to hot it'll come apart worse.
     
  8. I did one years back, used battery acid to clean the area with a brass wire brush, regular plumbing solder and a Bernzomatic torch. The key is not to roast anything else that has been in place for 49 years.

    Bob
     
  9. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 9,550

    5window
    Member

    Get the water away from where you want to solder or you'll never heat it up enough.
    Clean it really well-wire brush/sandpaper,dry it well.
    Use a flux made for the solder you use.
    Find some old guy,or a stained glass supplier with TIN/LEAD solder-the stuff for plumbing now is lead free and takes a high heat to melt. Solder percentages are like 60/40 or 50/50. This is the percentage of tin,then lead.The higher the tin, the lower the melting point and the stronger the joint. There are stained glass solders that include antimony called things like "Quik-melt" that will melt at an even lower temperature.

    When soldering you apply the heat away from the side with the solder and use the heated copper to melt the solder and make it flow toward the torch/iron. It's not like welding where you use the flame to melt the rod.
     
  10. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,290

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    Don't whatever u do use stop leak, clogs thermostat up and your radiator will blow a bigger hole. Use a torch that has a broad flame and not one that is concentrated. You may want to use a torch with MAP gas as the plumbers do with copper. They have a broad flame and can be had a LE HOME POT.
     
  11. dla4567
    Joined: Aug 13, 2008
    Posts: 92

    dla4567
    Member
    from callery pa

    Did you try putting a raw egg in it? (just kidding) I use "silfos 8", it is a soft solder and has silver in it,works well for me. But I would recommend checking with a radiator shop, their experts and I doubt it would cost that much. why take the chance.
     
  12. chaos10meter
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 2,191

    chaos10meter
    Member
    from PA.

    The egg white not the yoke.
     
  13. Retro Jim
    Joined: May 27, 2007
    Posts: 3,854

    Retro Jim
    Member

    Just take it out and have a Radiator repair shop fix it the right way instead of doing it with a patch ! That way you know it's done right and it won't start leaking on a backroad late one night with no bars on you cell ! Whatever you deside DON'T use the crap you pour into the radiator ! That stuff plugs up more than the hole ! Good luck with your choice !
     
  14. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 9,550

    5window
    Member

    I hate it when that happens! Although in my business, that usually means your dog is gonna get x-rays, sedation and a couple of good ol' enemas after I did the crap out. Oh, well, it's a living.:)
     
  15. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,915

    BJR
    Member

    Before you try to solder it get it clean, clean, clean. The local radiator guy uses one of those hand held spray gun looking sand blasters, with low pressure and blasts what ever he is going to solder first. Don't use a welding torch... way too much heat. Use a propane torch and acid core solder with flux.
     
  16. I had a pin hole rubbed in the bottom of the Aluminum rad on my Merc. I used some JB weld. A 2 part epoxy on it. I used to use a simular product for bonding aircraft parts. Made sure the area around the hole was clean and roughed up good. Wasn't sure if it would hold but it lasted all last Summer and I drive the car a lot. It has a tendency to get hot in slow traffic and the stuff still held.
    Might not be the recommended way to fix a hole or leak but it worked for me.
     
  17. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 9,550

    5window
    Member

    Oh, my goodness. Never use a welding torch near a radiator-the price of scrap copper is way to low now to make that a good idea. You just need a flame with enough heat to heat the copper to melt the solder. It is very important to match the solder and the flux. Leadfree flux is acid as is lead based flux but they are not necessarily interchangable.

    If you do it yourself and haven't soldered copper before, get some scrap pipe and some fittings and practice first.
     

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