who's done it? rustoleum

I painted the frame on my first Model A in 1973 with rustoleam's gloss black over their damp proof red primer. I used a brush and a spray gun to get 100% coverage. It takes a bit to dry, but I did it in the summer when it was hot. In 1996 I cleaned it and then put another coat of black gloss on it. So far there is still good adhesion and just a little bit of surface rust.

I'll use it again on a frame with no problem.

 

I sprayed some on a hood I'd stripped bare and it even stood up pretty good to cat pee in a damp garage for 10 years. Starting to get little rust spots then, but it was no worse than before I'd stripped it -

 

cat pee ...could be the ultimate test


this has to be the bang for the buck when properly prepped , its all new steel in my case, no rust cover up

 

I started a teardrop trailer project a couple of years ago, then left it sit. The chassis was spray painted gloss black, it is still as shiny as when i painted it.

 

Never, ever , EVER use armor all on anything you plan on ever putting a nice paint coat on. My friend had a car he would armor all the vinyl top, and some would naturally run on to the body. He repainted the car and couldn't get paint to stick where armor all had ever touched. He stripped it down to bare metal several times, but could never get rid of it completly!

 

I painted the chassis on DIRTYT's "Flying Monkey" 51 Ford with brush-on Rustoleum...something I learned from a fellow car guy back in the 80s and applied to my old Chevelles. It goes on nice, dries reasonably quick (under proper temperature and humidity levels) and holds up really well.

Go for it!

 

i used that rustoleum "rust converter" stuff on the insides of the willy rails where the wire wheel cant get at real good, then shot a coat of the same brand flat black primer... plans are to get a gallon of tractor paint (what fleet farm calls "industrial paint") and brush that on thick on the underside of the frame and where its gonna get a lot of road hash. . .

that tip brung to you by ChopRods Kenny... that shit hardens big time. almost like poor mans POR15 . . .

used it on a side project last spring i did for a guy. . . sprayed it on with an HVLP. mixed with the hardner and about 10:1 reducer to get it to flow out better. . . heres a pic of how nice the shit looks once shot... this is a gloss, but they do have flat, or your could use a flattner of your own so long as the stuff is compatible
.

 

I wire brushed the rust from my frame and used the old "fish oil" Rustoleum red lead primer that was left over from my dad's boat. I then covered the red primer with some brush on gloss black Rustoleum. This was in 1975! The red was old (probably early 60's vintage) and the black was current 1975. The red has held up to everything, including brake fluid. The black sometimes gets scratched off or flakes if hit with something.

 

53sled did it last week pm his lazy ass

 

Almost 9 years now and still looks the same no problems.....

 

Ya, worked for me. Takes forever to dry, use a good foam roller. lol

 

well if it wasnt a 1k product you can take lacquer thinner in your gun and really douche the fuck out of it and let it run on the ground...thats the only way i know of. But yeah i got a giggle out of that comment. We did a rebuilder.07 chevy truck, black, the salvage company thought theyd be nice and"shine" it up for us...well shine it up ment wipe the whole body with armor all....wtf. Had a fucker of a time gettin it off.

 

I used the red rusty metal primer on the tube frame under my modified 7 yrs ago & 4 trips to the salt flats & it has worked great.It's the only way to paint!!.

 

rustoleum is great until you go to take it off... I still have visions of my husband and I looking like coal miners, it was just a gooey sticky peeley mess. uck. I hate rustoleum!

 

Yah, hammered silver on frame, forrest green on suspension. Gun sprayed on but thinned with whatever it sez to use to clean tools, (Xylol or mineral spirits). USE LOTS OF PAINT! Then after it dried, I sprayed on polyurethane spar varnish over the rustoleum. Seems to keep gloss and hold up well.

When I get ready, I'm gonna use a roller on the body, wet sand , buff, then do the polyurethane varnish over top.

I have tested the spar varnish on everything, rubber tires too. It holds up well, just dont shake it up or it gets thousands of little bubbles in it....LOL

 

Sprayed my entire '50 with the satin black from the quarts and 15% thinner.

..........took 2 days to dry.

 

The ratty spray Rustoleum on my beater isn't holding up too awful bad for being quick and dirty, but it is getting rust where there was bare metal, just from driving all winter in the salt. But some of the big rust spots I went after with it the first time I repainted it seem to be fine. And it's always been done kinda half-assed, it's just a beater o/t truck.

 

I build drivers and I use it all the time on interiors and underhood. Lasts for years. I love it. Better than the expensive specialty names, but, don't skimp on the quality by buying store-brands. And, as said before, ambiant temp and humidity affect drying time.

 

I'm doing my chassis parts with it. i love the look of their black satin.

 

I used it to paint stock cars, this is the stuff in the quart can. I used brushes and those throwaway 3" rollers. It went on nice and laid down pretty well. On race day, I'd wipe the car down with a little ATF on a rag, looked great from the stands. I used to store the car outside on blocks wrapped up in the off season and it always looked good for the 3 seasons I owned it.

Bob

 

Ive been using damp prof red for 50 years with no complaints. Only zinc chromate prevents rust better.

 

Finally, some reasonable advice in this thread. Although I guess if a person wants to paint his or her car with Rust-O-Leum, maybe ArmorAll might be the best way to keep it looking "good".

 

I do all our Micro cars frames with the Rust O Hammertone in spray bomb, stuff ia as tuff as powder coat, Trick is to use more than 1 can, gotta rotate them thru a pot of 110 degree water to keep the atomizing pressure up,

 

I sprayed some chassis parts with it a few times. I used some leftover Centauri enamel hardener and dried within a few hours.

 

Rust o can be bought in Gals along with the correct reducer at Grainger or Macmaster carr, more colors and options that Hemo Dopo also, "hi Performance" series for industrial applications. the Safety Red Kicks AZZ!

 

Anyone have luck rattle canning their wheels? did they chip or flake?

 

<<<<This car is all rustoleum, can't beat the price, I'd rather drive it than spend a lot of time wiping it down with a California mop.

 

I like it on my wheels.
It has chipped where the screwdriver pries the hubcap off.
Yellow doesnt fade or go flat.
Red holds up pretty good.
Orange went flat real quick.

 

I painted the inner fenders on my 66 Chevy truck with Rustoleum Satin black a few years ago. I bought the quart can and mixed with it acetone like the directions said and shot it with a gun. It's practically bullet proof. I was bleeding the brakes one day and stepped on the pedal with the top off of the master cylinder by accident. Blew brake fluid everywhere! Cleaned it up with a rag & some simple green & water and it didn't even faze it.

I did however prep the heck out of the fenders by removing them, stripping them down, and then priming them with a good automotive primer but that was it. When I paint my model A chassis I will most likely use it again.

Just don't neglect the prep!

 

Brushed the frame and axles of my old Scout more than 30 years ago. Still looks better than rust. RUSTOPIUM is the best.