anyone have a quick how to or some pointers on adjusting the play in the steering wheel of my '53 chevy sedan? i've got a rediculous amount of play in the steering...need to fix it. thanks Chris
Check the link in your steering that connects the steering arm to the little thingie under the oil pan. Sometimes the springs break in there and it feels like you have a lot of play. Happened to me one time and I couldn't keep it in the road.
cool. i'll check that out. i can keep it on the road ok...but i've probably got almost 2+inches of play...looks like i'm a cartoon....turning back and forth while going in a straight line...hehe. thanks
yea, i was looking through the manual last night seeing how there are several steps in the process...just wondered if anyone had any pointers or "quickies". thanks though.
I have read that the 58-62 corvette stuff is an upgrade, and not too expensive, in case you find worn out parts.
center steering section is worn alot of the time, and has to be rebuilt. worn kingpins can cause it, tierods can add to it, and the adjustments on the box.
I rebuilt everything including the steering box in my 62 Vette 2 years ago (about the same as 49/52 chevy). Even after new kingpins and tie rod ends and everything else I still had 3 inches of play in the wheel. That is just the way they are, sloppy. My vette is now being uses as the Mule for a new kit to adapt a Power R&P kit for these cars. I hesitate to report on that here as it is deciededly NON TRADITIONAL. However, I would be happy to discuss it by email or PM. BB
I rebuilt my 54 and still had play in the wheel, so went to Speedway and ordered a sterring stablilizer and now its tight and drives very nicely. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/
ehh. tradition is great, but you can't deny new technologies i'd love to hear about your discoveries with the set-up! shoot me a PM sometime. thanks Chris
All it takes is inspection of the steering box for condition of bearings and gears, careful and precise adjustment of the steering box following the factory manual instructions, a good alignment job and inspection of kingpins, tie rod ends, the center pivot, and front suspension. Think about it. These cars were driven by millions of people from little old ladies who would have never survived if the cars wobbled all over the road when new to people traveling on vacation pulling travel trailers, carrying the kids to school every day, and every where in the wild going fishing and hunting. Back in those days you had to PARALLEL PARK a car or pickup to get a driver's license! The idea that they were built that way is absurd. Most folks who say that or believe it were driving those cars when they were worn out junk because that's all they could afford. That's why mechanical brakes have such a bad name, if you're driving a 25 year old Model A in the 50s you bought for $35 in front of a junkyard don't you reckon it m ight need some work?
Stay away from anything Corvette. If the worm gear is gone a rebuild kit is 400 bucks. I am going through this right now.
My 54 is my daily, and the steeering just recently got pretty loose. I searched on here and alot of people said there will always be alot of play, So I'm going for the swap. I already have the SAAB manual steering rack, so I just need some other parts to modify the steering column. I'll hopefully be doing it soon. It sounds to me like the better way to go especially on a daily. Food for thought. Once I get my lazy ass out to do it I'll probably do a thread on it, I've seen people talk about it on here but no pics of one installed.
Put it up on jack stands. Cut a wood block to length that fits the space between the front of one of the front wheels/tires and the frame. Have a helper hold the steering wheel in that direction to lock the block in place. Do likwise on the other side, wedging it in so the wheels won't turn right or left. Have a helper get in the car and move the wheel back and forth. Observe where the slack is where movement is.
If you have an engineering shop around you should be able to get them to rebuild the centre link (idler arm or third arm assembly - what ever you want to call it) nice and tight. You will find that just throwing a kit in there may not help because the new king pins will still wobble if the housing itself is worn (it was in mine) I had the housing resleeved, and a new king pin machined to fit super snug. Play in the idler arm? No sir, none. Walked away only 120 dollars lighter. Tie rod ends should be replaced - (cheap and will eliminate them as suspects) and take a good look at your control arm bushings - the lower inner ones are usually the first to go. You should also check if there is play in the sector shaft (the one coming out of the steering box) if it rocks back and forward as you turn the wheel you'll need new bushings (or bearings in 53 and later models). As for setting up the steering you should lift the front wheels up and steer left and right. You should feel the steering slightly tighten at a certain point (if the steering box is set up right). This slight tightening is where your sector shaft roller meets top dead centre with the worm gear (at the end of the steering column). After you find this location, remove the steering wheel and place it back on so that the steering wheel is sitting level when the sector shaft reaches top dead centre. You want to then adjust your steering link (between the idler arm and steering box) so that your car is driving dead straight when the sector is at top dead centre (and thus, when your steering wheel is sitting level). Set up this way you should minimal steering flex and no free play. Remember, don't tighten the steering box too tight or you'll have a poor return to centre as the steering box is too stiff. Run as much negative caster as you can, parallel camber and 1/8th toe in and she'll point you in the right direction.
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