So the extent of my brake knowledge is replacing brake pads and bleeding brakes. On my 1953 Desoto I'm trying to bleed the brakes. I put Speed Bleeders on the rear and all is well. On the front the Speed Bleeders go below the surface of the drum cover and I can't tighten them fully (see the picture) so I'm using the conventional bleeder screws. I put thread tape on the the screws. All I'm getting is bubbles, frothy white bubbles. It just never ends. I wore my girlfriend out doing the passenger side and pretty much gave up. The pedal just keeps going to the floor when pressing. Any ideas? I keep the reservoir full.
Can't say for sure but it looks like that bleeder might be bottoming out on the hex portion and therefore never sealing so you're just sucking air back in. You might need to try and find bleeders with a longer threaded portion. At least worth looking at.
The picture is the Speed Bleeder. I'm NOT using that. I'm using a standard bleeder screw. What's with the tire? It's dirty?
that brake line needs to be replaced!! and could be sucking air,also could be expanding when you push the brake giving a mushy pedal,i have had to gravety bleed some systems,remove the master cyl cap(leave it off for this),loosen the bleeder(s) and wait .make sure the master stays full ,sometimes this takes a while like 1 or 2 hours,or you can make a pressure bleeder using a small hudson sprayer,(used for spraying the garden ),take another master-cylnder cap and drill a hole in it big enough for a quick release air fitting,(male),and put a female one on the hose from the sprayer,now put brake fluid in the sprayer and pump the sprayer up,hook it up to the m/c and crack the bleeders one at a time,make sure you dont run out of b-fluid in the sprayer,
The other advice is good, but this bothered me, there should be no sealant or tape used on bleeder screws.
Sorry, the photo isn't much help then other than to agree that you really need to replace that hose before wasting more time trying to bleed cuz you're just going to have to start all over again when you replace it, or heaven help us, it blows.
also never use thread tape on brake fittings as they seal on the end not on the threads,and you can buy bleeder wrenches that have a hole in them to let the fluid out,they look like a tube or socket only longer usually different sizes on each end,
bleeders seal at the inner end, there's a cone shaped part that fits into the hole in the wheel cylinder. In this picture of a modern one, it's the red colored end. If you have the wrong bleeder screws in it the side your'e not bleeding won't seal, it will let air in every time you press the pedal and release it.
Well, I read in another thread on this forum TO use thread tape. Anyway, it's the same screw that's always been in there. I'm letting it gravity drain for a couple hours to see if that helps. I know the line needs replaced.
That hose could be part of your problem - either way it needs to go - might as well do both sides since you're at it. With a brake line that has ALOT of air in it already you want to SLOWLY stroke the brake pedal - pumping the &^%$% out of it will only serve to froth the fluid inside making your problem worse. Are there any crazy "loop de loops" in the routing of the lines? That can also add to your issues. If you've got tons of air in the lines - sometimes it's easier to disconnect the line at the M/C and bleed it right there - I use a big syringe for such operations. Having gotten 95% of the air out of there will facilitate the task at hand - not only that but it may also show you if you have "issues" with other components - like an internally collapsed old rubber line. Start with the basics - get your components 100% first.
remove the bleeder screw, put your finger over the hole, push hard enough with your finger that you get slight indentation. Hold it there keeping the pressure on it while assistant pumps the brakes. No need to pump up and release, just pump the shit out of them but keep your finger over the hole. What happens is the hydralic pressure will push your skin out of the way enough for air to escape,, and you will know when the fluid is coming out. replace bleeder and bleed normally till you get no bubbles. rinse lather repeat for other wheels. REPLACE THE HOSE!
Don't listen to these guys, a little electrical tape, that hose will look as good as new. This forum is about traditional cars/parts,,,,,, that hose was around back then, how could it not fit in?
Sir, I GREATLY disagree with you. Electrical tape is much too modern as a fix. A traditional butcher fix would have used FRICTION TAPE - now THAT'S PERIOD CORRECT. Sheesh!!
As Squirrel said the threads do not provide a seal. The seal is the taper on the end. If it has been in and out, check for dirt at the bottom of the threaded hole. Anyone that says to use teflon tape on the threads should not be consulted for brake problems.
bad brakes are traditional.. so is" fixing" the brakes wrong the bleeder screw may be the wrong one even if its the one you pulled out.. go see the parts gods... get the whole w/c and new hoses..... quit dicken around
Bleeder screw looks wrong to me it should be sticking out so that when you screw it in it will seat at the bottom and seal .My 2 cents
Why are you bleeding them...( is it a case of the car sitting a long time and they were not working, did you replace something, did you adjust the shoes?) How much fluid have you pumped through the system? Any signs one of the wheel cylinders is leaking? Oh yea It takes over 1300psi to lock up the average wheel while emergency braking, do you really want that system to work with that line on it?
Putting sealent on the threads won't do it. The seal is made at the tip of the bleeder. If it aint sealing there it ain't sealing. and on the up stroke, its sucking air back in.
Replace the hose and maybe spring for a replacement set of wheel cylinders. Always do brake repairs on both sides of the car. Do both hoses and wheel cylinders and you should be ok, providing the master cylinder is not damaged from pushing it too far with all the bleeding you've done. I've seen it all too many times in old cars, the master cylinder piston cups get pushed into the ring of rust and crud at the bottom of the bore. Then all it does is pump air. Bob
your master cyl is fubar. The rubber seal is folded over inside the bore from you grilfriend pushing the pedal to fast with air in the system. REPLACE THAT GODDAMED HOSE too. Desotos are cool, dont wreck it over a $12 part.
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