Im building a 32 ford and Im too the point of putting brake lines on. Its turning out to be a show car/driver. Its being built as a early to mid 60's car like most of them. So the big question is do I spend the extra money and go stainless or not. Im not a gold chainer Im just a working man. I want to keep the car for along time so I want to have every thing just right. Please let me know what line you guys use. Thanks!!!
Stainless is expensive, but it really looks good if you do it right and you do not have to use AN fittings for a more traditional look. I have used standard SAE inverted flare tube nuts, 45 degree flaring tools and single flared with a high degree of success. Just make sure when you buy your tubing that it is DOM seamless, not welded.
I say no to the stainless lines .I have worked on cars 30 and 40 years old with steel lines no problems with rust threw .I use steel lines .But I do use braided lines .My 2 cents
This is a relatively new phenomenon. Somehow it seems that if you don't use stainless it is insinuated that you are skimping on your project...building a second class rod. I disagree. I use the OE replacement tubing (Bundy-flex) I like to buff it on my bench top buffer. It only takes a few seconds to get it standing tall. I buff the brass fittings too. I spray them with spray bomb clear to keep the shine and protect the metal. I'm betting that your car will spend most of the time in a garage and not get too many trips in the salt laden snow. I can't justify the expense and the extra trouble just to "keep up with the Jones'". It will stay looking good for many many years. For me it's not a safety issue it's a "my shit is better than your shit" issue. JMHO
Stainless seems like a good idea. I like the idea of not having to worry about it much, even in dry SoCal. I just had a regular steel replacement line (installed before I bought the car in question) burst on me at the end of August, due to rust through. Never thought I'd see it happen, but it did. Luckily, I was testing the brake light switch in my driveway when it happened. (Stab-stab-stab, check. Stab-stab-stab, check. Stab-stab-SQUISH, crap.) The lines in that car will be replaced with stainless lines when funds allow, along with a dual master. Until then, it isn't getting driven much, if at all.
I think rust through happens more with shitty fluid than weather. I like in the rust belt ans steel lines are crap in 30 years. That should give you enough time to check them. I hear SS will crack instead of rust, same difference, you still lose brakes.
just dont use the red and blue AN fittings, they make them in black now or clean off the red and blue with oven cleaner.
Interesting point. I would assume that the line manufacturers are using a more flexible alloy of stainless, but an interesting point nonetheless. The fluid is something else to consider. Of course, I have no way of verifying what was used in my car before I bought, but I did go through the system before the line burst, and bled it. The fluid was clean.
304 is what is commonly used, flexes just fine but can work harden. Your brake lines should not flex, they need to be properly attached to the frame to keep them from vibrating regardless of material. Because ANY material can vibrate and stress enough to cause a crack.
Red and blue? Are you talking about using allunium fittings on brakes? That is a very bad idea. I use flex tube from NAPA bends and flares easy looks good. AN Nuts sleaves and AN STEEL fittings and stainless flex line. Stuff lasts for ever is asy to service and the flex lines don't flex. I lost a corner testing another guys car once........ the flex line =was the only thing that saved me and let me stop the car Stainless too shiny? Put shrink tube on it.
I like to use stainless with plated steel JIC fittings (37 degree flare) that are available through hydraulic supply houses. Usually you have to order the small sizes (AN3) for brake line fittings but the are very inexpensive compared to the aluminum or stainless AN fittings (at least 1/4 the cost). The fittings are gold chromate (I think?) plated and with some buffing they have a nice silver nickel finish. The stainless tubing is at least two or three times more money but well worth it to me.
Have done a few cars with 304 Stainless, Stainless Tube nuts and stainless fittings and single flare. They look great and i have a few cars with many miles and years of service on them - No Problems! Go for it! In fact i did an article on doing it for Custom classic Trucks mag a few years ago, don't know if i can find it, if I do I'll post.
I've been doing regular and stainless on my cars, and peoples cars. Depends on the car and it's use. If doing stainless, be sure to get the right tubing. I get mine from CLassic tube. It's double annealed, so it flares relatively easily...and I do double flare it. You really need a good flaring tool to do it right, even on regular steel, but esp. on SS. I use a Rigid double flaring tool. Very high quality, and never fails me. You need a good tubing cutter as well, and a tool to cut (or chamfer) the inside of the tubing after cutting. The regular one on the tubing cutter doesn't seem to work too well on SS. I bought a 'burr-remover' type tool, from McMaster Carr, that has carbide chamfering tips. Works great on the stainless! Square cuts, and no burrs, or flash are the secrets to good double flares.
If you are being true to the mid to late 60's build style, remember that NO ONE used stainless at that time. It is relatively new among builders. Back then OE type line was used and most often painted the same as the frame (usually black on a heavily driven car).
Since were on the topics i have a few question to. I managed to salvage the copper brake line from a junk 1937 sedan chassis. Was planning on making the remnants in to a fuel line from the mech pump to the carb. Not sure if it ID is big enough for flow. Can i use new copper piping for brakes or is it a bad idea?? need to make a line to the slave from the master in my clutch system Maybe i could use a copper line for the main fuel line from the tank to the pump?? Also when piping the brake line should you try to minimize the number of seperate line in the system??
Hey thanks guys glad you posted all your $.02 worth. Im still not real sure yet. I do know one thing is that if I use the stainless. I wont use the blue and red sleeves and nuts. If I do go with the oe type I like the idea of painting them the frame color (white). I like the polished stainless too because every thing up front it chrome plated or polished stainless..... What too do what too do??????
I agree, I have actually seen copper lines burst. As far as stainless, Dick Dake is right, it has more to do with shitty or old fluid than the line being faulty. Remember that brake fluid is hydroscopic and will pull moisture out of the air. I would recommend bleeding fresh fluid through tthe entire system every two years regardless of the amount of use.
NO COPPER OR ALLUNINUM OR BRASS BRAKE LINES OR FITTINGS Use of anything like that is like pointing a gun to your head or future drivers of your car and everyone around it! Hands down! If you've never done it Use the NAPA type hard line. It's like the old Bundy-flex bends like hot pasta. And flares easy provided you de-burr inside and out. Steel JIC stuff is cheaper than stainless and fine,but look around cause some brands will look better to you than others. Industrial fittings can look pretty "clunky" you might like it might not. You don't double flare with AN nuts and sleeves. In fact your not supposed to. I seldom use stainless do use steel fittings most of the time. Forget trying to paint stainless. The steel stuff, You can color with gun blue or black oxide kits. These are cold process and easy to do. And the plumbing supply places ARE often the cheapest places to get fittings. Now if you want your stuff to 'look copper' go to a good artist supply and look for copper wax. This will give non-stainless line a copper look. It's hard to keep looking good but you can do it. You'll get an old copper look and it's not fuel-proof but you won't be the first one to the fire! Yes none of this is 'Period Correct' but it is SAFE! And like I said shrink tube on braided lines covers them well and ends the BLING! The de-burring tool from M/C is a wonderful thing that will last you a lifetime. Lastly you don't need to plumb in -3 you can plump in -4 that way (once covered) everything sortta looks old/period correct A long time ago I found a big bucket of NOS Adel clamps from WWII. I use these to hold hard lines. my .02
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