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broke centercap screw off in wheel advice on removing ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dirtbag13, Sep 30, 2008.

  1. dirtbag13
    Joined: Jun 16, 2008
    Posts: 2,540

    dirtbag13
    Member

    so to top off my already long day i come home and figure i"ll put my new custom flat caps on my torque thrust wheels ! long story short i get down to installing my 2nd one & get to the last screw it goes in half way and binds so i go to back it out and it seezes up ! they are stainless steel buton head allen 8-32 by half inch screws and the allen strips on the one i seezed up so like an idiot i get on it with a pair of pliers and twist the head off ! any suggestions on an easy way to get it out ? drill & retap? just take it to a machine shop ? any help apreciated thanks!
     
  2. 327-365hp
    Joined: Feb 5, 2006
    Posts: 5,430

    327-365hp
    Member
    from Mass

    Left hand drill bits work tits, or easyouts work most of the time. Try anti-seize on the threads next time, especially on stainless.
     
  3. dirtbag13
    Joined: Jun 16, 2008
    Posts: 2,540

    dirtbag13
    Member

    yeah thought of the anti seize after it was too late !i will have to see if i can find an easy out that small or some left hand drill bits ,it should be fun to drill since it's stainless, luckilly i think theres only about a quarter inch stuck in there ! thanks!
     
  4. 327-365hp
    Joined: Feb 5, 2006
    Posts: 5,430

    327-365hp
    Member
    from Mass

    Those screws might be a little long too, they might be hittin bottom. I forgot to put never-seize on the retaining screw before installing my newly chromed headlight trim rings. I hope the bulbs last forever 'cause those screws ain't never comin out!
    Good luck!
     

  5. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    If you have a mig, you can just keep adding a little weld at a time until there is something to grab with vicegrips. When it cools it will shrink the screw, and then rock the vice grips, it should go.

    You can make a shield to cover the rest of the wheel so the sparks don't mark it up.
     
  6. Not so sure I would go this route on a #8 screw.
     
  7. autobilly
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 3,129

    autobilly
    Member

    I'd soak it in Wurth Rost Off Plus and try an Ezi-out, or as 327-365hp said a left hand drill bit.
     
  8. BigVinDaddyMac
    Joined: Feb 17, 2008
    Posts: 195

    BigVinDaddyMac
    Member

    L.H. cobalt drill bit lubed with tap-magic will make short work of it.
     
  9. Da Tinman
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,222

    Da Tinman
    Member

    Its an 8/32,, just drill it and retap,, no need for anything exotic.
     
  10. creepyjackalope
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 560

    creepyjackalope
    Member

    If its an Allen head screw its a new wheel and is covered under warranty. This is nothing new on the 505 Torque Thrust. Tell your retailer to get you another wheel. It may be easier to fix it yourself though.
     
  11. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    Be ready to install a Heli-Coil. It can be hard to keep a little drill bit like that from walking out of the stainless and into the aluminum
     
  12. I assume you don't have a milling machine. Do you have access to a big drill press? Grind it as flat as possible first, then clamp it down and start with a center drill to keep it from walking on you.
     
  13. A machinist pal of mine made a hollow drill that fit over the broken #8 sheet metal screw.
    Drill it out, press in a new aluminum plug, drill and as noted use NeverSeize.

    You may be able to buy these from places like MSC.

    Far as I'm concerned the only good use for sheet metal screws is in wood....
     
  14. stealthcruiser
    Joined: Dec 24, 2002
    Posts: 3,748

    stealthcruiser
    Member

    Yup,look for a "drill bushing" of the appropriate size .Will work well IF,there is some screw sticking out to locate it,(the bushing),and you go SLOW.
     

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