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Filling Pits before Powdercoating

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Silent_Orchestra, Aug 11, 2008.

  1. first off let keep in mind that were talking about valve covers......no reason would you need to bring temp up to 400. 350- 375 degrees 25- 30 mins it will be fine. there is a bondo that is called alumifill i think which has aluminum in it. its been discussed on here before...depending on how bad the pits are a good sanding after first coat then rework them is the easiest fix. it all depends on how good your powdercoater is to.
     
  2. I would ask Eastwood and POR 15 companies.
    Unless they dropped the items, they both claimed to have a high temperature epoxy or filler for filling pits and imperfections.
    All they have to do is survive 400-450 degrees without changing shape or lifting. I believe both advertised their temps beyond that...

    Its worth asking them whether they have it.
    I think the powder coating shop already has their own favorite filler anyway.
    Use the one they like best.
     
  3. Thanks, this is the question I needed answered. I'm also going to follow up with my powder coater.
     
  4. Silent_Orchestra
    Joined: Jun 17, 2007
    Posts: 1,313

    Silent_Orchestra
    BANNED
    from Omaha, NE

    Hey it's been a while since I've been on but thanks for the replys, Cadillacoffin is going to my coating, I'll have to ask him about temps, but he said he can do a good job on it... Thanks again for the help everyone!!
     
  5. Whistlercowboy
    Joined: Dec 2, 2008
    Posts: 11

    Whistlercowboy
    Member

    Lab Metal works!Depending on how big the pits are you can always have him lay a coat of Powdercoat Primer down,sand and coat the color.Some PC colors cure at a lower temp than 400-most are around 400 though.Depending on the substrate--the Powdercoater might have to outgass the part at temps 50 degrees higher than cure temp to make sure the part comes smooth out of the oven.Last thing you want is a bunch of bubbles on your parts!
     
  6. Streetwerkz
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 718

    Streetwerkz
    Member

    lab metal, jb weld, and lead do not work, period.
    they all fail most every time.
    there is only 1 product I have found, it's made by Tiger Drylac, and reputable powder coat shop can order, and use it on your parts.
    We use this product for small pits, and large waves in small parts, and large body panels be for powder
     
  7. I did have bad results with LabMetal:eek: Should have said that in my first post!
     
  8. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    I brazed some drilled holes and cuts in my Packard valve covers. Sanded them smooth and sent them to the powder coater. I defy anyone to tell me where the brass is now.
     
  9. Streetwerkz
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 718

    Streetwerkz
    Member

    brass works, I have done some copper that worked fine
    lead melts, and there are some high temp solders that pinhole real bad
     

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