Assembly on the flathead starts soon. I've heard Permatex is the stuff to use on head bolts so I told the man behind the counter that's what I needed. He recomended the black stuff. Is this right? How does the seal hold up with re-torquing the bolts? No problems with assembling the motor, torquing the heads, and waiting a few days before firing the motor and re-torquing? Also, does the aluminum spray used to seal head gaskets have a specific brand name?
That spray stuff you mentioned is available from Permatex brand...we had an equivalent in Ford cans at the dealer, probably the same stuff from the same maker...but the Permatex stuff should be available in a retail parts store. (If not, go to the parts counter at a Ford dealer and ask them to sell you a can.) I've used the black Permatex stuff on head bolts (just a very light film) that went into water jackets on other engines, and never had any trouble after re-torque procedures. (I installed the heads on my last motor, a 318 Mopar, with that stuff on the threads, torqued 'em...let it sit over night and re-tourqed 'em...then the engine sat for about two weeks before it was ready to fire. Re-torqued it twice...once after cam break-in, and again after the first oil change. No problems, no leaks!)
In the not too distant past, Permatex only came in two styles, #1 & #2 - hardening or non-hardening. The #2 was usually called Aviation Style Permatex. I'd be willing to bet dollars to donuts that's what you really want...#2 Aviation Permatex (non-hardening). RTV silicone sealant is like duct tape - it works OK for what it was intended for, but tends to be overused...
Flat Ernie speaks the truth,I spay my head gaskets copper coat sticky stuff,still holding at 8 lbs boost!
#2 Aviation Permatex is what you want. I had no problems with re-torqing my new Edelbrock heads down. Remember 55 ft/lbs....48 times!
When I bought my ARP head studs (c/w hardened washers and nuts) for my flathead from Red Hamilton @ Red's Headers, he recomended for the studs, (and I bought) Permatex Aviation "Form-A-Gasket" 3H. The Permatex item number is "80019" Then I got the recommended (by RED) Permatex "Copper Spray-A-Gasket" for the aluminum head gaskets. Type 101MA, Item # 80697
An oldtimer that hags out at our shop recommend the black #2 Permatex. We use it for anything that doesnt require Anti-Seize. The only problem is now I find 3-5 diff. types of black Permatex and cant find the old standby!
[ QUOTE ] An oldtimer that hags out at our shop recommend the black #2 Permatex. [/ QUOTE ] I think it's more of a brown-ish color Once you start spouting colors, I instantly think of RTV & not Aviation Permatex. [ QUOTE ] The only problem is now I find 3-5 diff. types of black Permatex and cant find the old standby! [/ QUOTE ] Quit hanging out at Autozone & Pep Boys - go to a real parts house! Seriously, if you're looking at tubes & colors, look again. Aviation permatex does not come in tubes - it comes in a white plastic tub with a brush in the cap - very old school Check with NAPA - if they don't have it in stock, they can get it. Don't ask for "black" permatex - ask for Aviation Permatex Form-A-Gasket - DD gave the part numbers....
This is the traditional aviation gasket stuff for those who don't use the spraypaint method on copper gaskets: http://www.permatex.com/products/industrial_individual_products2.asp?selectid=112&category=gasketing&oe_category=engine&product=Permatex,%20Aviation%20Form-A-Gasket,%20No.%203%20Sealant This is a tacky liquid with a brush applicator and a great smell. I'm still using a twenty year old batch in a metal can that requires a pipe wrench to remove the lid... For the threads, either the same stuff applied to block and bolt threads, or the non-hardening #2 stuff, which I think is the same thing in a thicker form. The modern choice for the threads, probably better, would be: http://www.permatex.com/products/industrial_individual_products2.asp?selectid=142&category=thread%20sealants&oe_category=engine&product=Permatex,%20High%20Performance%20Thread%20Sealant Specifically recommended for through bolts like this. Clean block threads with a gun brush, not a tap, because those are extra depth threads, designated class two or three or some such, and a standard tap will noticeably loosen the fit. Most flatheads have already had a tap run through there in the past anyhow, many of them by me before I found out... And note this fooling around with gasket goo is obsolete tech. Best way here would be the modern slippery gaskets from FelPro and studs, IMHO. The main reason I prefer the studs is that the threads in the deck are barely adequate when new, have probably lost some grip from rust and tapping, and don't need the aggravation of several retightenings.
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