Screw it all - I found the stock lever action shocks for the front of my '29 RPU , AND I also found the JC Whitney rebuild kits for them that were delivered to my Grandpap in June of '76. My questions now are - HOW DO I REBUILD THEM! and... How well do they work? The rebuild kits include just a couple of funny shaped O-rings and a felt type plug looking thing. Thanks to all who've helped out and have humored me with my many questions on this subject.
I'm interested in this as well for I'm leaning toward using them in the front of my roadster build up.
I'm a die hard do-it-yourselfer but without the specialized equipment, this isn't a home garage project. IMHO. I tried but I couldn't even get them apart. A torch and a 3 foot pipe wrench and still no go. It looked like I would end up destroying them before they came apart. Many are beyond repair anyway. Call me a sissy but I bought professionally rebuilt units. There used to be a site that documented how they work and the whole rebuilding process. It was impressive. More than just replacing gaskets and O rings. JMO
I'm with tommy on this one. These are not an easy rebuild and you really need special tools for this. There is a place called Apple Hydraulics that will do them for you. I would bite the bullet and just have them do them. Not cheap, but these shocks work great and are worth saving. http://www.applehydraulics.com/ Just my $.02
I'm also curious as to how well they actually work as shock absorbers? I have them on my '33 Chevy, it would be cool to use them if they work OK. (I live on a rough road)
I'm going to be running a military version on my Model A. They are pretty tight. I expect good things from them. I'll let everyone know when I get it on the road...
If they aren't frozen, fill them up with 600W (you'll have to order this) and use them! 90% of the time, if they are moving and not frozen, they will work just fine. Rebuilding requires a 1" impact gun and other special jigs and equipement, and even the people who do rebuild them here in OC don't get them right half the time. They do work good for shocks. We always find it ebtter to find good unfrozen ones and just leave them alone, top them off and run them.
They're meant for a military trailer used for radar. I purchased them as NOS parts from a guy I got in touch with through another HAMBer. They were still in the oak crates and grease paper with a MIL STOCK number and dated 1951. I searched for months trying to figure out what they were (Apple didn't even know!!). Ironically, I was working on a military contract at the time and one of the projects involved a strage radar trailer. Sure enough, it has a set of four of them also! That is one heavy trailer!!! The springs had something like 10 heavy leaves in them. After I saw them on the trailer I started poking around some other equipment and they all had something different. So, maybe these were just for the trailer, but I suspect they were used for similar equipment in the early 50's late 40's. Sorry you asked??
Thanks. Good advice. So if I understand correctly they are either good (still moving) or bad (frozen), correct? Thanks.
I think someone told me once that they are adjustable, but I'm not sure how, if they are. Yeah, finding another set would be tough anyway. I pretty much screwed if anything happens to these.
The ones you have ARE adjustable, but they are not Model A. Model A shocks have a square shaft, and are not adjustable. Jack oil is what you want to fill them with. Anything heavier will not flow through the internal orfices, and effectivly lock the shock up. If the shock moves, and dosen't leak, it doesn't need rebuilding.
Good info thanks! Wasn't sure if they were or not. And yes, I know they're not Model A (see comments above ). They're for military applications, but they are indeed the same make as the early Ford shocks, Houdaille.
Model "A" shocks are adjustable, Most of the Houdaille type work on a system of vanes and ports with check valves and the fluid used must pass freely to function properly. The adjusting screw is in the center of the shaft. There are 2 or 3 articles in how to rebuild in the Restorer reprints. One says to remove the fill plug and cook it in a bar b que. It does take a large wrench and a stout vise. I bought mine from Bert's in Denver. You can check the Ford Barn for rebuilders
The shocks I've got are clean, and unfortunately, I cannot know for sure whether they were working when they were removed in the late 60s. I know they (My dad and Grandpap) picked up the rebuild kits, but I don't think they were leaking, but again, I don't know. So, what you guys are telling me is that: 1) Jack oil can be used to refill these things if they are currently empty. 2) If they are not frozen and move, then they don't need to be rebuilt 3) They are good shocks to use. What about if they leak or seep? Do you just halfway clean up the mess and refill them occasionally, or do they need to have the seals replaced?
Use original ones- get them rebuilt if you have to. The reproductions are not worth the $ and will fail quickly. Remember there are clockwise rotating and counter clockwise ones, Left front and right rear are the same and right .....you get it! Heavier and don't work as well as correct modern tube shocks; but I like the look.
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