Torque spec on tie rod ends, Not for ladder bars?

I have built a set of triangulated ladder bars for the rear of my 32. In an attempt to keep with the old parts, I used the larger 3/4" thread tie rod ends for the attachment point upfront. I would like opinions, or better yet facts about the load these will support. I like the look, but I prefer that it stays together when I gas it. Thanks Scott.

 

Nobody? Maybe I should have asked for opinions from any of the members here who do hotrod suspension and chassis builds regularly. I have also included a couple shots of my rear ladder bars. I will add a pic or two once I get them tacked into place on the chassis.

 

the work looks good. from my experience, i think the end should hold up under normal driving. have used these before,and they performed well. don't know how much twist and turn they will hold. I now use the heim ends.

 

that looks good , and you will be fine with the tie rod ends

 

Thats good to here because its tacked in place and I like the look of it. Here are some pics.

 

Beautiful job on the fab work! But man, I don't know about the tie rod ends. I guess it depends on what kind of power you are going to put to them. They aren't designed for that type of load and I think if you have a big motor and side step the clutch, they're coming apart. I've seen pretty big and stout heims, mounted properly in double shear, fail under a big load and they are definitely stronger in a pull like that then a tie rod end. Probably OK behind a flatty or mild motor ......

 

They look good but...it seems like one connection point (the tie rod stud) would not be strong enough to last. I would think a bushing end with a double shear bracket to support both sides of the bushing would with stand motor torque better. If it did fail that would be a bitch to redo with the car together not to mention what else could happen if it broke. JMHO

Marty McF.

 

Overall those things look KILLER! Real nice work, minds if I do a loose copy?

 

I know tie rod ends take bumps in road OK but I'm not too sure about the excessive radial loads that they'd take in a hard launch. I'd keep a sharp lookout on the body of the ends after they've been used a while. The look and the idea are pretty freakin kool, but for where you're at now a good race or even heavy duty street style rod end could happen. Just as an example (going from memory) a 5/8 hole 3/4 thread race rod end has like a 70K + shear rating.

 

Look at all the hotrods built with split bones in the last few decades..............TONS use tie rod ends. He should be fine.

 

I would have used a hemijoint instead of a rod-end, but looks good bud.

 

I will take them. PM sent.


Wait,.... this is not a classified post. I do wish it was.

They look extremely nice! Can I copy them loosely also?

 

Again i have to say, how much power? A flatty with tall tires, no problem. A blown Hemi with a 4 gear and slicks - TROUBLE

 

Most of the tie rod end use is at the front as I recall. I'm sure many done at the rear as well. Again I say, radial shear capability.

 

Thanks for all the comments and opinions. That's what i asked for. Compliments are appreciated as well. I cant take all the credit for the welds though. Brian at Car Company did all the final welding. Its nice to have friend's skill and tools handy when yours fall short. The design was loosley copied by me so feel free to take the concept and run. I will report back if they fail and you can eliminate rod ends from your concept!

 

Looks good and I think you'll be OK strength wise. Only comment I'd make is to check the straightness of your rear housing after all of the welding is done. I think it would have been better to have your bracket go 360 degees to equalize warping. Think Pete and Jakes here. When the welding is equal (360 degrees) the warping is canceled out for the most part and the axle centerline is not disturbed. Again I'd check it after the dust clears just so you won't be wearing out axle bearings. Difficulty installing axles (as in the bearing is tight or offset to the side going in requiring pressure to line up with the housing bore) is a sure sign of a warped housing.

Frank

 

I dont know how much shear hitting a pothole at 60-70mph puts on an end but I'll bet it's more than those will ever see. Mu uneducated vote is you won't see any problem. I would think you would tear the mount loose before you break the end.

And as has been stated, beautiful work.

 

Good lookin' fabrication!

 

They'd probably be fine, but like when in normal use on steering stuff, I would check them regularly to see how they are holding up. Of course, that goes without saying, but I don't know how they'd wear as opposed to a heim joint in double or single shear mountings.

Personally, I'd hate to build such solid and slick looking arms, and have the weakest point be a tie rod end in a single shear setup. As they always say, a chain is only as strong as its weakest link.

 

I think many of you failed to notice he is using the larger 3/4" tie rods. Not the most common 11/16" ends. Those ends will be fine. The 3/4" ends are more like big truck stuff, and are super burly.
And those bars are rad!

 

Bump To Top

Cause this is just some real cool craftsmanship !

 

I have seen bars modified before such as these in the past......and was going to do something close to this with my 36 bones.....I raced my unmodified bones for a while they had 125 drag passes on them and after swapping out engines for a better built on, figured my bones were a weak link....took them off to add a upper bar and plate them up, but noticed fatigue from drag racing evident.........I really never liked the thin narrow mounting tabs on the rear.....the tie rods held with no problems and continue to do so even with alot more power.....I machined the ends to hold the tie rod ends w/ a rosette weld ect. I decided to make a new pair from scratch and have done well so far.....with the idea of adding a smaller upper bar in the future to triangulate them if needed.........Littleman.....the main tube coming out my machined blocks go in 4 plus inches..I would like to add, double shear design is always a better way to go..

 

Hey Littleman i saw the post on your '36 -er, well, 2008 rear bones. They look beefy as hell. I am not planning on drag racing, and will probably never have a tire that hooks if I do. I was wondering though, do you have pics of the fatigue? Or maybe you could just describe the area that is weakened over time.

Also saw someone else comment on the rearend bracket, It was a full circle 3/8 plate. -I cut it to mount, and welded the remainder back on to complete the 360 degree weld. If I work on it this weekend I will post up some shots....Scott... Threw on the body to get a look and yes it has the look, more soon.