Register now to get rid of these ads!

problem with 347 ford

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by lonewolf83, Apr 14, 2008.

  1. lonewolf83
    Joined: Jul 31, 2006
    Posts: 180

    lonewolf83
    Member
    from so. cal.

    got the motor checked out and the machine shop says its all good. i just rewired the car with a painless kit. what could i have done wrong. the problem is that it doesnt wanna go past 4000 rpm it sounds like its not getting fuel but like i said the motor is fine. the machine shop bench tested it and everything checks out fine. thats why im thinking wiring, any ideas??
     
  2. Phil1934
    Joined: Jun 24, 2001
    Posts: 2,716

    Phil1934
    Member

    If points, check dwell. Otherwise timing marks have changed over years. Verify TDC
     
  3. Ole don
    Joined: Dec 16, 2005
    Posts: 2,915

    Ole don
    Member

    Every time I have heads off a motor, I use a dial indicator to check the mark on the crank pulley. Do you have points ignition? Did someone put the centrifigal advance plate in upside down?
     
  4. lonewolf83
    Joined: Jul 31, 2006
    Posts: 180

    lonewolf83
    Member
    from so. cal.

    no points, electric ignition. the motor was put on a dyno and tested and nothing wrong there. they got it started up and everything. so im sure its not in the motor, i think its wiring but what would keep it from going over 4000 rpm's?
     

  5. Is your fuel pump adequate? What kind of transmission?
     
  6. lonewolf83
    Joined: Jul 31, 2006
    Posts: 180

    lonewolf83
    Member
    from so. cal.

    stock fuel pump worked fine but like i said i did rewiring and now it has this issue. as far as the tranny its a c4 but the problem is also at idle in park also
     
  7. whisperer
    Joined: Feb 14, 2008
    Posts: 15

    whisperer
    Member
    from Bend, OR

    If it was running good before, and the only thing you changed was wiring, then the problem is in the ignition. What is the run-down on your electronic ignition? What distributor, coil, ballast resistor etc?
     
  8. sounds like your not getting total timing. whats your initial & total? what carb you running? might not be getting enough gas now if you were just running a 302 before.
     
  9. lonewolf83
    Joined: Jul 31, 2006
    Posts: 180

    lonewolf83
    Member
    from so. cal.

    do you know wire could have got switched or what would cause a limit on power to the coil or distributor? it has to be a switche dwire cause its all the same equipment except for the wiring, im going crazy!!!
     
  10. electric fuel pump? if so make sure your getting 12 volts to it too
     
  11. moses
    Joined: Dec 7, 2004
    Posts: 1,101

    moses
    Member

    did they put in a rev limiter of any type msd ignition or ford electronic ignition ..jeffrey
     
  12. lonewolf83
    Joined: Jul 31, 2006
    Posts: 180

    lonewolf83
    Member
    from so. cal.

    i dont believe it has a rev limiter and the fuel pump is manual not electric. i think the key here is to look past the actual components and focus on wiring and wiring alone. like i said it all worked together before, when the wire changed is when the problem arose
     
  13. whisperer
    Joined: Feb 14, 2008
    Posts: 15

    whisperer
    Member
    from Bend, OR

    You could be running the wrong voltage at the coil or ignition box or distributor due to a resistor wire in the Painless harness. Once again, what componants are you running?
     
  14. BLACKLAC50
    Joined: Jan 10, 2008
    Posts: 202

    BLACKLAC50
    Member

    ! it actually has a petronics dis and eletric coil ! with a gm mod ! called petronics they say a gm mod is fine ! it also has a 650 holly doubble pumper also swaped that out with a 700 same problems!
     
  15. 81ttopcoupe
    Joined: Feb 10, 2005
    Posts: 398

    81ttopcoupe
    Member
    from Cedar Park

    This may sound obvious, but since no-one has suggested it. Check your grounds. You have a nice heavy cable running from the frame to the block? No paint under the ground connections(just threads isn't enough)? If you have an electric choke, check that also.
     
  16. lonewolf83
    Joined: Jul 31, 2006
    Posts: 180

    lonewolf83
    Member
    from so. cal.

    i have checked that but i will do it again cause i thought the same thing, maybe at a high rev a vibration is cause a bad connection, hopefully, then that would just be too damn easy
     
  17. whisperer
    Joined: Feb 14, 2008
    Posts: 15

    whisperer
    Member
    from Bend, OR

    The distributor + wire needs 12VDC on the Pertronics and the coil needs to have whatever that particular coil is supposed to run. Either 6-8 VDC or 12 VDC. I can't see your parts from here. I'f your distributor is running on 6 VDC then it will do exactly as described, same with the coil if it is a 12VDC Chevy coil.

    I have a pretty easy-to-understand diagram of the Pertronics install under "Tech Tips" on my web site at www.vintage-automotive.com. That diagram is for the vintage Mustangs but you'll get the picture.

    You need to get a VOM and check your voltages.

    Another thing to check is If you have a ballast resistor to drop your coil to 6VDC and then you hook a resistor wire to it from the new "Coil" marked wire, then it will do what it's doing also. Check your voltages.
     
  18. Phil1934
    Joined: Jun 24, 2001
    Posts: 2,716

    Phil1934
    Member

    The coil will fire weak if hooked up backwards.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.