That ain't even close. It'll just plug into some of his accessories just like the American Autowire kits. He'll have to find somewhere to mount it as well. No I don't know of an on-line schematis source but I woldn't expect Painless or American Autowire to be of any help, either.
Here is one you can buy http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.carmanuals.com/images/90s10.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.carmanuals.com/Chevy%2520Truck.htm&h=521&w=400&sz=45&hl=en&start=40&tbnid=VYUSpLMksNZF0M:&tbnh=131&tbnw=101&prev=/images%3Fq%3D1964%2Bwiring%2Bdiagram%26start%3D20%26gbv%3D2%26ndsp%3D20%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26ie%3DUTF-8
So what's not working? A good description of the problem will get you your answer. You've already got Desoto's attention, and if he can't help you, nobody can. Ralph
The problem is the "gen" dummy light wont go off. Ive replaced batt, voltage reg, horn relay, alternator, the starter & a majority of the engine wiring. & no change, my next thing to replace is the amp gage. If not i will try a BIG gun & a match!
P.S. It now has a 350 in it, out of a 77 Blazer,but I havent had this issue since the swap a year ago.
Don't replace the amp gauge, that shouldn't have anything to do with your issue. Is the system charging OK, amp gauge showing positive reading? Does the idiot light change it brightness when you rev the motor?
Factory amp gauge? And a gen light? I thought they came with one or the other,not both. Is the light bright with the key on(not running) and on but dimmer with the engine running. Have any fuses blown in the factory fuse block? Really shouldn't be that difficult to track down.
you should be able to buy a Chiltons ,Motors or Haynes manual that will show your electical schematic.
EDIT: Awe crap, I'm thinking of an internal regulated alternator. I'll leave this as maybe it might offer a troubleshooting path. ==== See if one side of the idiot light wires back into the ignition switch. What's supposed to happen, is the ignition switch is turned on, and the idiot light comes on. The other side of the idiot light goes to the #1 terminal of the alternator. The side of the light that goes to the ignition switch is the same side that goes to the coil + connection through a ballast if you have one. Take off the alternator plug, and measure continuity from the #1 pin on the plug to the ballast resistor ignition side (not the coil side). Should be a short. #2 pin usually has a big wire, so that's the easy way to find pin #1. If you have a multi-meter meter (and you should), you should measure 12 volts or so on this plug pin #1 when you turn the ignition switch on. I suspect the idiot light wire that goes to the alternator is shorted to ground, or partially shorted to ground. I would replace this whole wire. Personally, I would disconnect any wires going to the amp meter, and take the wire directly to the fuse box.
lolife , i believe he has an external regulated alternator..... or does he? i'm not sure of what he really has with both an amp gauge and an idiot light...seams to me someone was cutting , splicing and adding wires to the oginal harness
Iwas thinking with a 77 350 he had an internally regulated alternator and an externally regulated harness. Still no biggy to make it work.
I GOT IT FINALLY!!!!!! I guess it was some wierd short in the gauge, (after market add-on) I figured that out after rewiring half of the damn truck! This things electrical systen was an abortion, at least now I know everything is done right. No more apprehensions about it. I truly appreciate all of the help guys, see you @ the Texas Thaw!!!! LONG LIVE THE H.A.M.B. !!!!!!
When you need wiring diagrams for most cars, go to your library. Most have mitchell manuals in the reference section and you copy whatever you want.
The Jalopy Journal
