I moved my oil filter from the intake and onto the firewall. I need to get lines made but nobody works in SoCal on the weekends. I want to run without a filter until I get some longer hydraulic lines. Do I just plug the two oil holes or do I connect the two? I think the oil filter just dumps into the pan, not sure though. Is it as hard for everyone else to get parts as it is for me? every time I start something it takes twice as long because I cant F'ing get parts.
Unless someone has converted the engine to a full flow filter,you can just plug the 2 holes for the bypass filter .
Unless you know exactly what you have the safe bet is to connect them,keep an eye on your oil pressure aswell
If you have the by pass filter with the little 3/16 or 1/4" lines you need to just plug the holes, with a couple pipe plugs. You could hook the two ports together but you wont gain anything by doing that, it would be a pain to make the line if you dont have the materials to do so. Either way will be just fine.
I do believe your oil pressure sender is connected to the line that goes to the oil filter. Not a good idea to just block them off. Just run a small line from one to the other. Can't go wrong that way.
On bypass setups, the fitting size is 1/8" NPT. The rear fitting is where the pressure is, the front fitting just dumps into the pan. If you were to run a line from one to the other without some sort of resistance betwen them, like a filter, you will have a drop in oil pressure because the pressure is going to take the path of least resistance. It won't run out of pressure, but it will definitely not be what you want. You could run copper or stainless steel lines and compression fittings if you wanted to, instead of the hydraulic lines. Just don't over restrain them, because you need to allow for some movement due to engine torque and frame twisting.
What Snarl said, you need a restriction or all the oil gets dumped into the pan. It would be better to block them than connect them. Frank
Try a diesel truck wrecking yard for the hoses. Big rig gauge panels have 10 or more 10" - 24" Aeroquip hoses with the same fittings, very heavy duty.
I think the 235 is not a full oiler. It is a full pressure. The bypass oil filters were accessories in the early motors. All the oil does not flow through the filter. So you wont loose oil pressure if the filter is not present. You do want to keep in mind the oil sender is piped from one of those outlets.
All 235's are bypass filtration, whether they are full pressure or not. Do not confuse full pressure with full flow. The origin of the filter isn't relevant. Some of the earlier babbit pounders had no provision for oil lines in the blocks. In those cases you would hook it up to the oil distributor plate. Some filters, like those made by Inner Line (back in the day), bolted right up to the block in place of that plate, no lines required. The bypass setup steals oil pressure from the main bearings. That's why its called a bypass setup, as it allows some of the oil to bypass the bearings. If you run too large of lines or just send it right back into the pan you will cause more oil to bypass the bearings. You can leave the pressure sender in place, you just put a plug in where the oil line hooks up.
Snarl is right , I'm running a stock 1956 235 that was factory delete bypass oil filter. It uses the lower rear for the sending unit and the upper forward is plugged. right from GM, not saying it's the best situation but it is factory stock.
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