setting up the chassis for my 32 truck, I have parted out a 39 merc fourdoor and are using as much as possible from it to build this truck, really want to use the steering and 39 merc wheel, with lightswitch in the centre button. to use a cross steer box in a 32 is bloody tight..but i think it can be done, Ive had to move the engine over about 3/4" to allow clearance past the head, and unfortunately dont think i can run my aftermarket heads..the heads on it now are 8BA, but i have 99 merc heads i can run, and save the Hogans for the next build.heres some shots of how it looks mocked up. I will have to put a plate into the chassis rail to mount the box to, no big deal.suprisingly there is lots of room for making headers, im going to have a go at making them out of those heavy pipe bends ,you may have them over there too, cheap, and nice tight bends, just heavy! i think its called schedule something pipe? I would love to see if anyone else had done this, its a bitch trying to keep it all old ford stuff, but worth it ,to me.
I have used that box in a 32, and in a 27 roadster. It worked great. I have 1 from a 39 1 ton truck in my 32 I am doing right now. you can do it.
cool thanks jim, nice to know its been done sucessfully before! did you have to put the box deep into the rail? mine seems to need to go about halfway into the depth of the rail.
Colin Bates built an early A roadster with a cross-steer box out of a 37. I've got a build feature in an ASR showing it, if you need to see it. That one you got from me doesn't fit?
hey mark, that F truck box is slated to go in the 34 roadster, still havent trial fitted it, I really want to use as much 39 merc stuff as possible in this truck, so far the list is engine, brakes,bones, steering, banjo rear, wide fives, 39 merc hubcaps, and if it goes full fendered, the 39 merc bumpers and overriders too. imagine a guy in '49 got an old worn out pick up, and a merc his stupid brother rolled, and got to work.. thats the scenario in my head anyway.
Yeah, I know what thats like. I built my 54 Chev more-door like a kid would do his first car in '60, and as you saw when you were over, I'm trying to get the coupe like it would have been if it were built in '55.
Hi , could you post that build here or post a link to where I can see this ? I could use this information for my model A I am building right now ! thanks !
I used a cross steer 39 ford box in my 34. To get the steering wheel in a nice position I ran the column very near the head, had to cut a section out of the outer tube to clear. It ruled out some aftermarket heads as some are thicker at the lower edge. Once all set up it steered really nice. The steering in my 40 is great. It's a good box to use. Mart.
This is a survivor from the 50s that showed up at York one year. It uses 39 steering from the banjo wheel to the box including the 39 steering drop. It was done many years ago.
I do remember on the 34 that the face of the steering box does not sit flat against the rail. to get the steering wheel over towards the centre a bit to allow better clearance at the door, means the box mounting plate needs to be at a slight angle. You need a bit of knuckle room, and don't forget to allow for window winders and reaching past for switched or indicator stalks. EDIT: I just noticed you have notched into the top of the rail. I'd probably use less notch, move the steering box towards the engine a tad and having ruled out the aftermarket heads run a very tight clearance. Flathead engines hardly move around due to stiff mounts, it's ok to run a tight clearance, down to 1/4". You Mart.
Thanks Mart, A 34 chassis would be easy, nearly 2 inches wider there. As it is the wheel is one inch closer to the door than the original column , Id love to run it all tighter, but I believe in reasonable tolerances ..as it sits it is 1/2" column to head,and the body isnt built or bolted down, dont want to shoot myself in the foot! if i go studs on the motor will be less, plus you cant remove the head in the car without dropping the column..not a big deal, i guess. the depth of the notch is necesssary to get the wheel inside the door at all unfortuneately. Also trying to get the box forward enough so the drag link and tierod are parallel makes things worse.
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