Help-lead body work

tried searching it. Looking for the proper way to use lead for body fill. What type lead, and pretty much all the hows of the process. I've heard word of mouth multiple ways of doing it but nothing set in stone. Thanks for any help

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=172583

 

you have to use30/70 leadsolder, 50/50 lead is what plumbers use and is about worthless to use because of the high melting point . when you get it hot enough to use it just runs to the floor!! where i have been buying mine is at eastwoods, i bought 10 sticks first and tried it out first on a scrap piece and it worked great!!! can actually use a plumbers torch with mapp gas[yellow bottle] to heat lead, they also sell a lead free solder. an old timer told me the whole key is getting the area totally clean, metal has to be really clean, i grind then use a wire wheel on a 4 inch grinder to polish up the area to shiny metal get every bit of the weld slag off or it will not take the solder!!! then tin area with the tinning butter or if it is a small area you can use ACID CORE SOLDER melt solder onto area and wipe with a shop rag to cover area completly if a spot does not take the solder it is not clean enough , then heat lead and apply lead as every one says, ive heard of alot of ways to lubricate paddles and they both work , marvel mystery oil, beeswax, or they sell at eastwoods a tallow product if you dont use them your lead will stick to your paddles and they will catch on fire!!! been learning myself and ive been having pretty good luck with it , you will be surprised on how quick the sticks go , and how much it will cost to do a car but results will be worth it !! plus any body can sling some bondo!!!it takes a real man to put his health at risk!!!

 

i order my stuff through eastwood, they sell kits that come with all the stuff you will need. get your work extra clean and takeyour time its worth it.

 

Here is a link to an 18 part series on how to lead. It's VERY informative, but takes awhile to watch.

http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=C0E136CC0FD57644

 

and definately keep a large cup of water within reach, and a wet rag

 

I also use the Eastwood products. One tip that I can suggest is to take a clean piece of galvanized sheet metal and lay it on the floor where you are working. When you first start, a lot of the lead will end up on the floor. This is a good way to save some of the wasted lead. Also use this tray to collect the lead shavings when you file your patch area.

Next, use a thin piece of galvanized to make a v-shaped trough, roughly the length of a stick of solder and bend the ends of the trough to cap the ends. Bend the trough slightly so the lead will flow towards the middle. You can place this trough in your bench vise and fill the trough with the wasted lead/lead shavings. Use your torch to heat the lead to molten, and then use a small scrap of galvanized to skim impurities from the the surface. Allow the piece to solidify, and repeat the molten/skim process until you get the impurities out.

Allow the piece to cool, pop it out of your mold, and presto, you just made a solder rod out of your scrap. As long as the galvanized is clean and the galvanized coating is in-tact, the lead will not stick to it. Saved me quite a bit of money, 'cause lead ain't cheap.