I have a 29 Model A Speedster w/ a 31 engine. Bored .100 over with a 6/1 Brumfield head, 4 tube headers, Ansen intake and Stromberg 97 carb.The clutch does not chatter, but I notice a lag time when I shift from 2nd to third, the clutch seems to wait then actuate. This is most notable in third gear. It does not happen in first at all, and may have a silght effect in second. I think I have oil on my clutch face, and considering the lack of rear oil seal and that the flywheel housing has an opening in the bottom this is my deduction. Is there anything I can do to fix this problem. I intended to replace the flywheel and clutch with a cut down version (40 lb) flywheel and V8 clutch this winter, but then again I may not (depending upon finances) Does anyone have a fix for this problem? Thanks, Chuck Goings Myrtle Beach SC
The fix I get consistently from the old-timers is this: (you aren't gonna like it)-pull the car up to a tree or some other immovable object, put her in low gear, and drop the hammer. You will soon burn all the oil off of the disc. I KNOW, I wouldn't want to do it either, but there you are.
I'm not real familiar with your specific setup but, if the bell housing is open at the bottom, and you can see the pressure plate and disc, you might try having someone hold the clutch in and spray both sides of the disc with some brake clean. Does the engine drip oil from the rear main? Just be sure to follow some safety precautions when doing this.
The brake clean idea will work ok. But it may also wash out the the throwout bearing as well so be careful to not spray with out seeing what your spraying.
All 4 bangers drip oil. The Model A has no rear seal, just an oil slinger. If you leave it in reverse, it will leak a lot, so I never leave it in reverse.
Long ago my old shop teacher used a paint spray gun with kerosene from the parts-cleaner to fix a friend's car. He put the 52 Chevy on a lift with the tires hanging in the air, took off the lower clutch cover, had someone hold in the clutch. With the the clutch disc loose (without the pressure plate clamping on it), he sprayed and sprayed into the pressure plate until the solvent was running and dripping. A volunteer would turn the back wheels every once in a while to rotate the clutch disc so the whole thing got washed. The car would hardly pull itself out of the shop at first, but after 5 or 6 stop signs the clutch started acting good again, and returned to normal after a day. Didn't cure any oil leak, but it would take a long long time for the oil to get things wet again. A year later still no trouble.
My old uncle that taught me how to drink whiskey and steal sheep had this favourite cure for slipping clutches. Get some good hardwood and have a little bonfire. After the fire has went out, and cooled, gather up half a coffee can full of the wood ashes.---The fine, grey powdery ones, not chunks. Take the inspection plate off the back of the bell housing and dump the ashes in there. Then put the cover back on and drive it. The ashes will soak up all the oil that has soaked into the friction disc on the clutch, and the slipping will stop. This sounds kinda like voodoo shit, but I've seen him do it, and know it works. Of course, if your rear seal is leaking bad enough, be prepared to do it every couple of weeks.
Brand new Police/Taxi clutch in my 335" Old Rocket powered 50 Ford coupe. Oil leak - I think cuz I left the little cork blocks for the pan back end out - soaked the disc. On the advice of a local circle burner I used to pit for, pull the clutch and put the disc in a shallow and clean container of solvent. Not Kerosene, but solvent - I think it's called Stoddard solvent in some area's. Let it soak overnight. In the morning take it to a safe area and light it on fire. Let it burn itself out. The solvent seems to lift the oil and the fire 'removes' the solvent. Clean the pressure plate and flywheel with clean solvent and re-assemble. This time with the cork blocks in place. Worked fine and saved an expensive clutch disc.
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