I found a 28-29 tudor roller nearby that is for sale. I think its a 29 due to the exterior door handle on the passenger side. It's pretty rusted out though; The subfloor is gone and rusted out about 3" up from the bottom. Small holes through the doors and bottoms gone about 3" up. The fenders are good with minimal dings but some rust damage at the end near the running boards. Hood compartment is excellent as well as frame with original rear end. He wanted $1800 but I told him I couldnt do that. So he said to come up and check it out and he'd work with me. He still hasnt given me a price, and it's about an hour and a half drive to look at the car in person. Sheet metal is a snap on these things and I really want to build a street rod. What's a good ballpark range for this?
He's a military friendly guy and since it's going to be my back to Iraq present, he said he'd "do me better." I wanted to jump but I'm strapped for cash and have no mechanic connections here.....yet! This would not be for a quick buck, this would driven and hard!!!
it s a 29 body with 30 front fenders and grille on it. i wouldn t pay more than 1000 for it if it s all rusted out. what you will spend on time and money to patch panel it and fix everthing, i would pay a little more for a less rusty car than fixing all the rust. and if you cant do it yourself it will add up really fast!
Get a catalog and start adding up the patch panels and replacement floor panels and stuff that needs...essentially, you're going to need most of the patching stuff made for that body. IF you can do the work yourself, that's going to mark the difference between that body and a solid one--if someone has to be paid to install all that properly, forget this one right now! I think the total cost of panels needed will show that in total you can afford a much better bodied car IF you can afford one...if you cannot, then spending more but spread over time starts to look different--it becomes a way of buying in on the installment plan. Seems to me those are the economic choices... Model A tudors are fairly common and cheap, so piecing together a bad one makes sense only if you can do the work and you need to approach the finances piecemeal. If you'd have to pay a body man to fix that one, just go buy a national show winning restoration and you'll be way ahead!
Hmmm...off to Iraq...better to save up your pay while you're there and buy a back FROM Iraq present at a better level. A $4,000 Model A hulk will be much cheaper in the long haul, IMHO, and likely a $6,000 one would be too...and that one might drive home. That one needs everything there is.
This is going to be a project for myself. I'm going to do everything I can myself. MIG welder and hammers in hand. The sheet metal pieces are dirt cheap, I've already priced them and alot of the pieces I can make myself. This is not going to be a rush job (over a couple years) and I'm not at all worried about original restoration. Chop, channel, Z'd, 350 sbc, 9" rear, just going to have fun with it.
were in Fl.do you live? there are a bunch of HAMBers that can help in Fl.. i am in West Palm Beach. i would try to get the car for that price,i have seen cars and bought a few in that year range that were way in worse condition for more money. let me know if i can help.
Hey squigy thanks for the reply. I moved to Northern Tampa about 3 years ago and havent made any connections around here yet, so all my findings have been through the internet and local papers. I've finally talked my wife into letting me get a project and so now I'm looking. She's not into cars but I think that her involvement in this build will get a little gasoline flowing in her veins and she'll come around when its done. I got a budget of about $2000 to start and I really like the idea of having this tudor because of the simplicity of design, the fact that I will build this from the frame up myself, and they just look mean, but I also dont want to get ripped off.
It's a lot better than the one we sold for $2500 the end of August. Unless the actual body subrails are shot, ours had all those, although most of the tin was weak in the same ways. Ours had a banger in it yet, but I don't think that it was good for much more than a boat anchor.
Okay so I went and checked it out and the frame is shot. He wants $1600 for it including delivery to my home which is about 2hrs away. He has a 1930 title for it. The hood is immaculent and is the best piece out of it all. The fenders are weak with some cracks, stretched holes, and the body is rough. I expected this much. The torque tube was cut . Since my garage is small I was going to ask a price for just the body, considering I have to build a frame from scratch and probably wont use the original suspension, fenders, or hood. What do you think a good asking price for this body is?
The best price is what YOU are willing to pay for what is available to YOU in your area. You don't have to make a custom hood, you're not going to use that radiator shell anyway. All the fenders and hood and shell are is money after they are sold to spend on the rest of the project. If you love it, and want it, buy it.
Yea I know I just want to make sure I wasnt getting ripped off. I dont really know what a Model A goes for in this condition so I wanted to get a couple of opinions first. I really want this car, but money is hard to come by as we all know.
With the body that rusty, I think 4-500.00 for the body only. You could find a NICE 2 door body for 15-2000.00. Even if you can do it yourself, that one is so rusty, you'll have that much in it, plus all the labor. I'd hold out.
Unfortunately thats what I was thinking. I dont think he'd even split the sale and sell me only the body for a cheap enough price. I hate seeing this thing just sit and rot, but as long as there is hope for another find. I'm still going to see what type of price (if any) he'll take for just the body.
if you cant do most all the work yourself i think you are getting in way over your head with that at any price. stay safe over there and good luck.
I you can fix the rust, that isn't a the worst deal, although if you can't fix the rust i'd pass, or at least buy it and flip it for alittle more to someone who can to help you get closer to your project. I"ve seen people buy worse shape model a's for more $$$ than $1600 delievered. Good luck. -Anthony