Tech: Braided staneless by hand (ONLY IF YOU MUST)

How to cut braided stainless lines without power tools PRECISELY.

I'm sure I'll hear the "rotozip and be done with it" or "cut-off wheel on your grinder" comments, but I have neither. My shop is a 10x20 storage unit with 1 extension cord for a light and a radio, and a couple boxes of hand tools.

So, If you are in a bind and need to cut braided stainless line with a hacksaw, here's my method. And yes, of course, you can just hold it in your hand and cut it, but in my opinion the cut will never be straight and the braids tend to want to pull out.

If I'm running stainless, it's for the necessity of safety, so why not do it right? The stuff is also expensive and I don't like wasting cash on sloppy work.

I'm also assuming that the basics of using line and fittings is understood.

Here's what you'll need:
-hacksaw (I prefer the handle-only type so if I push crooked the blade tells me)
-a couple of the clamps you will later use to secure the line in the car
(two small hoseclamps with drywall screws through them will also work)
-a few screws
- scrap block of wood
-small piece of angle iron (i used alum left over from mounting the cooler I was plumbing) (Yes, that is a left over header bolt, a dime as a washer, and sink plumbing nut as a spacer)









You should already have the line marked, so run 3-4 TIGHT twists of black electrical tape. You will remove most of it later, so don't worry about pinching the line.

Place that tape mark on the board and place the clamps about 3/4in apart on each side of the cut. The angle iron should go OVER the clamp as to not hold the clamps crooked and end up with a crooked cut.








Now hold the blade to the guide and cut away! You'd have to be a wreck to cut this one crooked. If the stainless starts to push when you get half way, rotate the line inside the clamps.








Make sure to clean out the line, you don't want metal and rubber shavings in your trans! Remove a couple of twists of tape (i usually leave 1 on to hold the braid ends) to end up with a clean end.






The only thing different about this cut is that without the quick cut of a cut-off wheel is the pressure we put on the line as we cut and the squeeze of the electrical tape. After screwing the female end of the fitting on, I use something to make sure the line is pressed out against the fitting before I pop the male end in. For these #8 lines, a sharpie works perfect.





And presto, you are good to go.
So let's hear it... How much crap can I take from people who hacksaw it by hand? At 7k rpm and 115mph I won't be worried about losing my trans fluid or oil...will you?

 

I use these

 

That's pretty smart, I wondered how to cut that stuff...

 

I thought you were going to show us how to brade stainless lines, Rapunzel style.

 

That's funny, so did I!

 

me three

 

necessity the mother of invention.
I can relate to your lack of tools and space.
and the need to still get the job done.
I was once in the same situation many years ago, building and resoring an old 68 bonneville Triumph.

 

you can use a hammer and a sharp chisel and it gets the job done too.

 

Count me in for number four.

 

That's how we do it, And we have all the above mentioned tools. Except those cable cutters.....gonna have to give the boss a heads up on that one. Those would be great for store sales.

 

what he said.

 

I've seen an axe used once to cut braided line. By far the slickest, and quickest way is to spend about $30 for the tool mentioned above and be done. The tool also works great on cutting battery cables.

 

Never tried the chisel. Is that the Chisel from the "wrong tool for the job" thread, or a different one?

Just never had the gumption to blow 40-bucks on a set of cutters for 1 cars lines... if I had a shop, sure!

And you guys read wrong, you must have been looking for my "Weaving Braided Stainless By Hand" thread.

 

So I'm number 5?

 

I use tape to mark the area to cut, and to keep it from fraying. Then use a cut off wheel on a dremel to make the actual cut.

 

Jonny O, nice tech post and pics! Thanks man!
My hats off to ya, working primative and still getting it done!
welcome to the HAMB!

 

The chisel method is the one suggested in the GREAT Carrol Smith race car hardware and plumbing book--he says just use a really wide chisel and a fairly soft chunk of metal for an anvil and do the job with a single mighty whack.
Here's one link:

http://www.sae.org/technical/books/B-702

One of the best books of all time!

 

Another trick I've read, if using a hack saw... use 2 blades (double them up), one blade going one direction and the other blade going the other. Something about it keeps the line from fraying because its cutting on both the push and pull strokes of the saw.

 

I got the cutters from Speedway for $20, I use them to cut all sorts of stuff.

 

That's a good though, will have to try that on a scrap piece.

 

Hey don't let 6 of us slow you down

Longer you here the more you'll find out we're lost

 

"At 7k rpm and 115mph I won't be worried about losing my trans fluid or oil...will you?"

Nope, I won't, even though I use a power tool............


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Don't get me wrong, I would much rather use the air compressor, angle grinder and cut off wheel I don't have.

That comment was made to show that even if i do it mid-evil style, I'm willing to take the time to get a straight cut.

 

I'm one of the chisel guys. Works well.