So Im rebuilding my 307 SBC and I got to the phase where I take off the heads witch necessitates the removal of the exhaust manifolds. I got the passenger side off no problem, but one of the bolts that connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold on the driver side wont come off it just spins on the stud. Apparently some jackass mechanic cross-threaded it when the previous owners got the exhaust replaced. <o></o> <!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <o></o> So what do I do? Do I hack-saw through the stud and ruin the manifold? Or is there some other way to get it off? If I do hack-saw through the stud could I put a C-clamp around the doughnut where the stud was, would that hold it together? Thank you for your help, awesome hot rod people.
Use the hot wrench to cut the pipe below the flange so you can remove the manifold (or the head with the manifold attached). Once you have everything on the bench where you can get at it, the removal of the stud may be easier-especially with more heat (from the hot wrench) applied to the cast iron. You can always replace the pipe.
Nut spitter! Sold everywhere. Then re-tap the stud to the next size down when you have it off and on the bench. It worked for me, several times infact.
Try to get some vice grips on the stud (after a soak in pb blaster) see if you can screw the stud out of the manifold
No disrespect... But in my opinion this is a total crap-shoot! Vise-Grips only fuck shit up beyond repair(99% of the time). Put your vise grips in the same box as your cresent wrench and lose it...
Good up to the running a die over the old stud. Studs are cheap you just remove the old one and replace it with a new one. But if you can get in with a nut splitter that's the easiest way to go. Get that bugger out where you can work on it and replace the stud.
Thanks, your right. Goes to show you that by the time I get that far I'm too buzzed to drive and get a new stud. Hence the re-tap the old stud. I like beer!
What does he have to lose ??? He already has a big mess of a problem ... it is already beyond fixing most likely ... the vise grips might just get the stud out ...
What does he have to lose ??? Skin on his knuckes and time better spent on funner things! Why try something that "might" work? And I raise you a .... When there are tools available for the spacific job at hand?? I think the nut splitter I have cost me 10 bucks, I've used it atleast 20 times. "" I love those little faces. Makes me feel like I'm almost talking to somebody in person?
Get a propane torch. Heat up the manifold where the stud goes in. You'll be looking at the "bottom" of the stud pointed up into the manifold I assume. Get it hot and then spray PB Blaster on it. The heat will draw the PB Blaster into the rusted threads of the stud. You should be able to put a wrench on the nut and work the whole frozen nut/stud out of the manifold. Then just replace the stud with a new nut when putting back together.
Do this ONLY if you want to burn the car to the ground. Spraying PB on a hot manifold will only run down and burn you or catch fire and burn the car. Cut the pipe or the bolt. Once you have the manifold off the car you can get to everything better. I would replace the stud. Re-threading with a smaller thread is not a good idea IMO. As you still have a messed up stud.
Sounds like you might be in the same situation I usually am: never having the right tool for the job. Because you took the time to come here and ask how, obviously you are smart enough to take the time to figure it out, not jump into hacking it apart! My advice: It's probably not cross-threaded, but the heat of a manifold really creates a mess on threads. Start with as many liberal coats of PB Blaster as you can manage and let it soak in overnight. Try to brush out some of the threads with a wire brush or your ex-girls toothbrush. Recoat it every 1/2 hour as you work on something else. If you are like me, and often need to mentally beat the bolt and all the shops are closed, there is one more approach: If you can get to the end of the stud (sticking through the nut, or on top) grind or hacksaw a slice through it, deep enough to get a good size screwdriver (or scrap metal) in it. You'll only need to get the nut broken free before your PB Blaster baths take over and the thing spins right off. If you must, and can a good grip (without mangling the hell out of it) with vice grips, try to turn it out. If not, you may have to spring for a nut splitter, or borrow one. The main thing is that, you don't want to cut the manifold. Pipes (after the manifold) and studs are easily replaced. AND NO, I WOULDN'T TRUST ANY SORT OF A CLAMP HOLDING IT TOGETHER IN THE FUTURE. Look on the bright side: sbc headers are cheap!
If it's a car I plan to keep, I replace all the studs anyway. I'm the poor bastard that will have to work on it later. Replace the studs and the next time it needs to be loosened you won't be in fear of it snapping. If you are trying to just make it quiet to sell then all of the used car lot tactics are fair game.
put a small tack weld on the nut and heat up the manifold where it goes in and spin the stud out! thats the easiest way!
Bolts and studs don't usually go together, so I'm assuming everyone's assumption that you're talking about a NUT spinning on the stud is accurate. Depending on how much room you have to work will dictate what methods are useable. I'd take the cutoff wheel to the stud or nut. Tacking the nut to the stud is another method which may work to back the stud out. Or go after it with a drill. Drill a small hole between the nut and the stud as a pilot hole, then follow up with a bit that is large enough to go through the width of the nut. Should be able to pry the nut off after that procedure.
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