I've got some light rust in some crevices on my car that I can't get into with sandpaper and I don't want to grind on them. See the pictures. What's the best thing to put on the rust that will kill it, but that I can then just paint over with lacquer primer? About the gray primer. I have light gray primer and the guy at the paint store told me no one makes dark gray or black primer anymore. Is it OK to put black toner into primer? I want dark gray/black primer because I want to paint the car black and I want to be able to see what it'll look like in black before I put the paint on.
There is a rust converter called Ospho that works very well. Spray or brush it on wait 24 hours than you can prime it. Find another paint store you can get black primer.
Is Ospho better than Naval Jelly? I can get Naval Jelly locally, I'd have to order Ospho. If it's better, I'll order it.
What kind of primer??? If it's PPG DP epoxy, you can add a little DP90 Black to the DP grey to darken it......toner in DP is not recommended.
I just called around. No one here has dark gray lacquer primer or epoxy primer. And the only thing they have that I might be able to tint is epoxy primer, which I don't want to use. And one of them told me you can't put toner into the primer I have, which is Nason Full-Fil, number 421-08.
For the rust, I recommend Rustoleum "Rust Reformer" in a spray can. It appears to me to be a combination of rust convertor and black primer. It is different than the other Rustoleum "Rust Reformer" products, which appear to just be regular rust convertor acid. I have had very good results with this product. I have a T that I did with this only (no paint or primer applied over it) back in November of last year, and the car has been outside ever since. No signs of any rust coming back.
Hey, If you're able to get lacquer primer what about black lacquer, as in a top coat? You can add the black to your primer to tint, but keep in mind that you will be asking finish to do the job of primer. The addition of toner/colorant to primer isn't a great way to go again, as you're asking the toner to do that which the primer should be doing i.e. providing adhesion for the top coat and some filling properties. Swankey Devils C.C.
Phosphoric acid& distilled water mixed 50/50.Spray it on and scour it with a scotch-brite pad keeping it wet.Immediately dry it. Before painting scrub it again with a sb pad and lac thinner or windex This is to remoive the white residue. Ive keep bare still 6 mos or longer this way in a garage and rust never comes back.Later Mike
my .02..tried a little experiment with naval jelly a few years back,on moderately rusty sheetmetal..repeated applications,per the instructions,and yea,it turned black,until I scratched it to check under the black layer..still bright,orange rust..I was hoping to neutralize it throughout,but it didn't penetrate the rust at all,just the surface...I wouldn't use it again
why exactly do you not want epoxy primer? any particular reason? Thats the ONLY thing I would spray on bare metal personally... you can in fact get black primer in just about any configuration be it polyester/laquer/epoxy...
Most of the big automotive paint companies make a tintable primer, PPG K93,Martin-Senour 5103,etc. Or you can mix light gray and black Lacquer primer sucks for anything important, all the good stuff now is catalized.
i used hmmm what was it...HOK DTM Epoxy on my firewall/cowl of my f100. hasnt seen daylight yet but i tell ya...its holding up great in the garage!
Mostly because I'm spraying the primer outside, or at least I'd like to spray it outside, and I wasn't sure it would dry fast enough. Can you put body filler over it? Can you sand it? Can I spray black lacquer over it? If I can work with it like I'm used to with lacquer primer, then I'll use it.
The HOK DTM Epoxy will tack in about 2-3 hours depending on temp, and the HOK Epoxy will take more like 14. Filler on top? Hell yes. Sandable? Easier than ever. Lacquer over the top? Not sure, never tried, never wanted to. IMO it is the end all be all of bare metal priming.
Why in the world do you want to use laquer?We're not living in the stone age.Get a little hand held "speed blaster",they make rubber tips for blasting seams and a recovery bag for no mess.Sem and dupont makes an etch primer in black and it's in a spray can.It works great.
I spray HOK epoxy exclusivley. I usually do it later in the day, sometimes outside, let it stay there overnight, as long as it doesn't rain. Even though full cure itme is 24 hours, or so, it dries to the touch in an hour or 2 , depending on temp/humidity conditions. Body filler over it, hell yeah, it's one of the few things you CAN put under filler...can't with lacquer! Yes, you can use lacquer over HOK epoxy. Not sure of the other brands, though, you'll have to check the tech sheets on them. IF they even mention lacquer...not too many use it any more.
Oh, yeah...and for the rust problem...I've recently been turned onto Picklex. Wow does that stuff work! One or 2 minutes with it on the rusty steel, and it's gone! Heavy rust might take a second application, with some scrubbing with a wire brush, but it comes out clean white metal. Not covered up, or "converted". Clean metal! I used to scrub with Dupont 5717 MetalPrep, for hours and hours, getting the rust out of the pitted metal. Sandblasting is an option, as well, though you have to be real careful, low pressure, move around a lot...I save blasting for confined spots, not on large flat areas, either!
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