Sprayable Coating To Replace Factory Inner Door Coating??Sprayable Bed Liner?

I've been looking for a product to replace the factory inner door panel coatings used on cars from the 30-late 50's??

Take a look at the pictures. I'm sure you all know what I'm talking about. Not only was it a sound deadener of sorts, but it also served as a panel stiffener. I once removed it all from the inside of a 48-52 Ford Truck door. The door acted like one big oil can! The outer door skin would flop all over the place.

I've talked to one 3M rep who said they had no such product. I still have to contact SEM, or browse there full catalog. On the other hand, I've been around a few different brands of Spray-in Bed Liner, and I think this might be the ticket... I know some are pretty hard, and some stay pretty rubbery...

Any one tried to duplicate this coating with good results? Any spray in bed liner guys who have a product that is high build and dries kind of hard??

 

How about body schutz?
http://www.rcustomcar.com/Body-Schutz-Rubberized-Coating-BLACK-Quart-P315C0.aspx
I used to use it when I worked on foreign cars. It always came factory on the European cars in the 80's.

 

Try Cool Car Ceramic or Lizard Skin. Search for the thread on HAMB re: Lizard Skin.

 

Body Shutz is pretty rubbery, inst it?

Does Lizard Skin dry hard? I know it's pretty thin.

 

I think the original stuff was asphalt

 

Just watch the weight. I put too much on during one project - it'll impact door hinges and alignment.

 

3M body Schutz is what I always used. You get a gun to be used with it, simple siphon feed with a big hole in the nozzle.

 

Yes it does. It's also a heat shield.

You spray or brush it on as thin or thick as you'd like. They suggest credit card thickness for best results. Once you use the stuff you'll never use anything else.

 

I like the sound of the bed liner. I sprayed the whole floor of my plow truck with the stuff, about 3 coats if I remember right. It's harder than a rock and dosent get chewed up. However I have used fiberglass resin to line the inside of a door several times. It worked well as long as you have it degreased before hand.

 

what she said ! I love lizard skin heat shield sound deadener best stuff you can buy .

 

You could experiment w/ it first- maybe on the refrigerator, kitchen cabinets, etc-

 

Lizard skin sounds like a good sound deadner, but will it stiffen the panel at all??

For $15 I might test the 3M shutz, see if it will help me in stiffen the panels. We have a gun at the shop.

 

Maybe you could show the panels some porn photos???

 

Not only was it a sound deadener of sorts, but it also served as a panel stiffener.

I would think that was an incorrect assumption. a good door skin will hold its shape even when removed from the door frame. it would only ad stiffness if it were sprayed between some inner brace and the outer panel.

 

That IS an option...

 

I believe I read that somewhere, and it made sense when it all flaked off my old truck doors and the panel turned into a big floppy mess.

 

wurth makes all kinds of body shultz for replacing sound deading expensive but best product i have used

 

i was wondering if this stuff has ASBESTOS in it??????anyone know?

 

Forgot about Wurth. I'll look into that also. Anyone else?

 

We used to use asphalt roofing cement applied with a wide putty knife. Also used it with heavy roofing felt to patch rust holes in floorboards etc. This was back in the 50's and 60's so I don't know if the roofing cement is the same now.

 

Never used it on interior panels, but I have a product called speedliner in the bed of my Ranchero. It sprays on about 3/16" thick and sets up hard. It has a textured look to it and it can be done in about 16 different colors. It must be applied over a clean roughed up surface. It was $350 to do my bed and they did all the sanding, prep, and spraying. I couldn't imagine that an interior would be anymore than that. Might be worth checking into? Here's a link to their website:

http://www.speedliner.com/index.html?cd=speed_cd&wcw=overture

They have a dealer locator on there.

 

I have done the inside of a 4 wheel drive Jeep, the complete underside of quite a few cars, including wheel well undersides. I think it works VERY well. Easier to clean than undercoat, shinier, blacker, doesn't absorb greae or oil, and is toughter against chips.
I DO recommend getting the ones with a hardener in the kit. The single component (no hardener) ones, like Duplicolor, do not harden up as quickly, or as tough. Might still be better than reg. undercoat, but for all that time invested, get the 2 part stuff.

 

i like the 3m body shutz on quarters, kick panels and inside doors it stays semi soft and works well as a sound deadner. on floors and roof as well as under hood i like the rino-liner stuff where you would want a harder product as well. plus the rino-liner won't soften in high heat areas, it's great for the complete underside of the body. both are black and color paint easily, dry fast and are scratch resistant. both spray on with the same kind of gun. i used to use dynamat but it is too expensive and very heavy. that's all i know.

 

Lot of good replies.... another thing to think about is which of these products is going to stick to a semi-dirty surface?? Some of the original door coating is good and stuck to the door. It won't be easy trying to remove it all.

 

I got the old stuff out of my pick up doors by heating a putty knfe and using it to scrape the stuff. It melts the old tar and the stuff just peels off.

 

Well last night I decided to remove all the original coating on the inside of th doors. I used Jays method and heated a putty knife with a torch. It worked slick! After it was all removed, I poured a dab of thinner in the door, (door flat on a stand) and with a red scotch brite i was able to get it completely clean.

That is KBS Coatings (similar to POR 15) that I sprayed. I plan on using it as a anti-corrosion primer, till I decide to do the body work to the car.

I'm still thinking about using a truck bed liner type crap to replace what I took out... Not sure yet?

 

I'd use the bedliner stuff. Cheap and easy and it does hold up to abuse. Not that there should be any inside your doors.

Our winter beater is a Geo Tracker. It had a place on the frame starting to rust. I fixed it and coated over it with truck bedliner. Stuff has held up there so it likely will anywhere.

 

The original"STUFF"....you mentioned-
was -PINE TAR EMULSION-
......[Not to be confused with "blackjack" which is more of a road oil type of product,used as a roof patch/sealer]

It dried hard and was really hard to remove [completely]... as you probably know by now!
Although it would sometime flake off some it was very instrumental in preserving the old tin as long as it did last so we cannot really say it was bad stuff can we?

It is still available [from an un usual source]..... even today....
Wal Mart sells it!
It is commonly sold as "driveway sealer" nowadays!!
It will spray thru a shutz gun or apply with a brush. it costs about 25 dollars for 5 gallons!!

 

Head down to Lowes and pick up a 15 dollar roll of "Peel and seal"
http://www.cofair.com/peel_seal.aspx

Its asphalt with a super sticky adhesive back. Doesn't stink after you put it down. I put a few feet in a VW van of all things... and the doors actually sound like a real car when you close them.

Dropped the noise by about half, its acceptable even without an interior now. (It'll stick to the roof...)

While your at lowes pick up a roll of "reflectix" the bubble wrap with aluminum backing. Headliner adhesive will glue it on to most anything, and it'll stick on top of the peel and seal.

Edit:

The duplicolor bedliner is crap. It won't stick well to verticles, and lays down super thin. It puddles in low spots. Takes a lot of coats to get thick.